This will help
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/f6/restarting-after-storage-diesel-63952.html

 

Thank you Rocky,

I although would like some more info.

I understand that it's needed to replace the diesel and filter, how do I drain it ?

Should I change the oil before startup or after?

 

I understand that it's needed to replace the diesel and filter, how do I drain it ?

Should I change the oil before startup or after?

No need to change fuel or filter. Fuel does not go bad. Just drive. Change the fuel filter and engine oil after you run through a full tank. I would then also change all fluids, gearboxes, axles, brakes, clutch, coolant, power steering as you have no idea the history and the timing belt.

But drive it first for a good tank to flush things out.

 

I would change the oil both before and after.
Change it before start up. Run 100 km. then change again.

 

Hi guys!

Just bought the car of my dreams, a defender 130 from 1998.

The last owner put it away in a old military storage unit in 2012. It was running nice at the time.

What do I need to do before I fire it up?

Change diesel and filter? How do I drain the tank?

Oil and filter, before or after start up?

Needed to flush the cooling system?

Thank you!

Rob from Sweden
View attachment 127350

Check the oil level. Charge the battery, put the key in, cycle the glow plugs. Start it up.

Then change filters, oil etc ... but at least you'll know it ran ... otherwise you'll start taking stuff apart and not know if that caused the non-running if it fails to start later.

 

Thank you!

I know The car, it's s My friends employer.

Timing belt, valves and clutch is replaced.

They put it away when the brakepedal was rock solid one morning. Two wheelbearings is also bad.

The motor was running like a charm when stored.

I will for sure change the diesel, feels safest. How do I drain/empty it in the easiest way?

I also think I will change the oil, right or wrong?

 

I will for sure change the diesel, feels safest. How do I drain/empty it in the easiest way?

You just keep asking the same questions over and over. If you don't like the answers, why do you keep asking?

Remove the drain plug on the tank if you want to drain the fuel.

 

Thank you Red, sorry if I upset you with my questions.

As you can see in the thread, no answer is like the other. I thought if I share some more info, maybe it could be clarified further.

I did look for a plug at the tank but couldn't find one. Apparently, it's there. Will look further.

 

Do you have a plastic tank? If so, there is no drain. You will have to suck it out. Like I said, it is a waste of time. Diesel does not go bad.

Things like brake fluid and coolant need to be changed after a time interval. The other fluids don't age.

 

I'd just be super careful. Diesel does go bad and IMO, its cheap enough to not warrant the risk. Drain the entire system and replace the filters.

Also make sure the engine actually turns over. Disconnect the fuel intake and stick the pipe into a bottle of diesel injection system conditioner. With the exciter wire disconnected (the one wire that a diesel engine needs), the rack will be closed and then you can run conditioner through the injection pump and the rack to clean out all the crap is probably in there.

Change the oil in it.

Crank it. Then get the injection pump timed and adjust the valves. Then start looking for things that need to be replaced. Little crap like belts, etc.

Diesel does go bad and water DOES get into these systems and cause a ton of damage. The older engines aren't as fragile but I see no reason not to do it all up proper. Also considering it is a 300TDI, there is probably a bunch of crap in the tank as well. Would be a great opportunity to drop it and clean it all out.

Check brakes and clutch. Probably ok, but check for seized pistons and dry rot. Brake failure is a bad time.

Other than that, see what happens. Enjoy!

 

Thank you! I Will sure follow your advice!

 

The fuel doesn't go bad but it might be contaminated.

 

Just put a key in and start it. And video it for good measure.

 

Timing belt needs to be changed most likely sooner than later.

 

Hej! As others stated, just start it. You will likely need a new battery. My opinion is that if the tank was full when the vehicle is parked, there is probably very little condensation (water contamination) in the tank. Might also be worth priming the system with the lift pump. I would guess that the fuel system could lose its prime, but that's just a guess. After putting a few hundred miles on it I would recommend changing the other fluids, but I doubt you would have any serious issues if you didn't.

 

Here's what BP has to say about long term storage of diesel.
http://www.bp.com/content/dam/bp-country/en_au/media/fuel-news/long-term-storage-diesel.pdf

 

That mostly relates to atmospheric storage tanks with direct venting and is also out of date. Storage in a closed vehicle fuel tank is a much better environment as there is little oxygen present. In addition, modern fuel is nearly 100% hydrotreated, which ensures that it is fully stabilized. This makes a big difference compared to 2005.

 

Last summer I charged the battery on my tdi D90 which had been sitting in my FIL's machine shed for 4 years, turned the key, and started driving it around. I changed the oil, burned through a couple tanks of fuel driving around, and put it back in the shed. Didn't even have to change the fuel filter.

 

Guys! It was perfect! Due to both lack of time and space did I just change the battery and turned the key, it jumped right to it, running like a charm!

I drove for 20min and changed the oil and filter. Drove it home for 200km.

It's many things on my repair list before I can start to use it.

1. It's klonking and banging when I released the clutch and when I'm driving. Thought it was the UJ in the proper shaft but it seems to be in the rear diff?

2.enoying ticking from engine, stops when I press down the clutch, I think it's the brake vacuum pump.

3. Front wheel bearings and swivel joint

4. The engine still runs when I turn off the key.

6. Rear crossmember

7. Rust in the floors and doors

8. Damaged front fender.

Any ideas on nr 1?

Thank you!

 

# 1 and 2 I would check the throw out bearing

 

My clutch was stuck to my flywheel and it took some pumping to reinvigorate the hydraulics. I don't know if some fluid weeped out or what but the action on the clutch wasn't good for a few miles.

 

Clutch is working perfect, it's when I shifting gears or do heavy throttling.

Could it be the rear frame A-bolt?

 

Or one of the upper rear shock mounts