If I remember correctly the one that I purchased from Rovers North because they actually had a solid price on it was exactly the same with the removable angle brackets. It just wasn't galvanized.

I happen to be doing a large batch anyway so the price came out of a bit cheaper then going with yrm.

I have a two door 110 which this crossmember usually isn't on. It is use though if you have Rock sliders

 

I am waiting for one from RN, as they are backordered, but no date as of yet- let me know if you proceed with YRM, and want to order together.

 

If there is a group buy on these, sign me up. Maybe a discount on a larger order?

 

I have one of these from YRM on my 110. The removeable design for the ears makes it so you dont have to tear the truck all apart to replace this one piece. With the ears you have to remove the t post/ "B" pilar on one side to slide one in.
Shipping wasnt bad, ordered it with the long alum under tub supports, seat box upstand, and their alum beam under the floor.

 

Good to know. I've read that some folks cut it in half, install and weld. Some even chop I in thirds. They stated that it is not load bearing. Others drill the tabs to line them up and bolt in later after removing by grinding off the welds. The YRM solution seems to eliminate all of these workarounds.

 

Yep and those cuts and welds accelerate the perish of the new part. The galvanized one is the only way to roll.

 

Question for UD or anyone that has done this...


I've got the axle off of the truck (including A arms) with a bit of access to the mid crossmember. My T posts need patching on both sides. To me, it is important to get the truck together, running and registered before worrying about certain rust areas. That being said... should I go ahead in install a new mid crossmember since I have access or will it be just as easy later on? I assume I'll have to remove at least one of the "panel extentions" forward of the rear arch. I'm not sure how it all intersects.

 

I am replacing the rear crossmember on my 130 and discovered my rear body crossmember was completely shot. I decided to get a piece of 2" x4" aluminum rectangular tube. Nice and heavy duty and will not rot. Drilled all the holes and insulated the steel brackets and bolts, all for under $100. Of course its easy because the tub is off though.


Mike

 

I'm ordering a galvy mid crossmember from YRM. Questions:


Should I purchase the "Sill Rail to Mid Crossmember Bracket" set as well?

Is it easier to line it all up with the new brackets and mid crossmember or is this a rabbits hole getting into the sill rail to bracket bolts?

Is YRM's hardward solid or should I stick with genuine?


The existing ones are rusty, but probably in good order.

 

I ordered a mid crossmember (pre-2007), brackets and related fasteners. I'll update everyone on the product quality and the installation.

 

DCG, did you do this repair with a yrmit mid crossmember? I need to do this. I can't weld. So I wanted to do this without needing to cut the new crossmember. Also, i assume this is a day job??

Thanks,

 

I cut and removed the rotten one, but I have not installed the new one. I am currently painting the frame. I removed the rear floor, but not the "panel extensions". This is the guidance I received from YRM. I'm going to attempt Option 2. I'll install it soon and let you know.

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There are 2 ways to fit,

On both after you have removed mid cross member the front of rear tub will slightly drop so put a jack or support under the under floor between between the 2 C Posts and lift. Place a timber underneath to spread the load. You only need to lift it approx 5-10mm.

Option 1, Remove the extension panel (triangular panel behind 2nd row doors) and then slide the mid cross member in from the side and someone under the to feed it over the chassis until in position, then fix upstand brackets whilst in position

Option 2, Remove the 2nd row floor and fit mid cross member, then fix upstand brackets whilst in position.

 

I finally completed the install of the mid-crossmember. I first attempted Option 1 above, but I was not able to slide the crossmember across. Being an '84, my 110 frame is a little different from later ones, especially in that area. I also didn't have a friend to assist me.

I therefore had to go with Option 2. Initially, I took a piece of the old mid-crossmember and tried to pop it back in using this method, but without any jacking. At that time, I must have decided that it was not going to work, which is why I started with Option 1. I then used my floor jack and a piece of 2x8 vertically to jack up the floor support closest to the rear seat/mid-crossmember area. I was able to place the board on the lip of the floor support. Just like YRM said, I jacked up the floor ~1/2" and the crossmember popped in. It was so easy, I actually laughed. I also purchased YRM's SS hardware to complete the install. I then discovered I had to insert the bolts closest to the rear floor before the crossmember installation, as they won't fit after the crossmember is in (Some folks have used shorter hardware and install them upside down). These are the long bolts that vertically connect the crossmember to the frame. There are four. With the two bolts now in place, I was able to jack the floor up a little more and pop the crossmember with bolts into place. The remaining two bolts can just pop in after the crossmember is in place. I had to use five shims (per side) between the uprights and the tub. I bought PL ones from RN.

If I could go back, I would have started with Option 2. But I now know how to use a pneumatic rivet gun having replace the sail panel. I pushed too hard on the first one and the tip bounced off of the paintwork leaving a chip... right of passage stuff.

NOTE: I was OK with jacking up the floor 5-10mm as YRM instructed. Jacking the floor up a little more (to fit the bolts) I became uncomfortable with. I did it, everything bolted up fine and I'm happy with the result. If you have questions, just ask YRM, they were very helpful. I put 20lbs of torque on each bolt from a later Defender body torque settings list i found on the web. My manual does not list them. When I ask YRM what the torque figures are, they stated "On our personal vehicle fixings are bolted up tight."

 

Nice work. Brings back memories of the countless hours I spent under my 110 doing the Puma rear seat conversion.

 

Wish my frame looked that nice...

 

I appreciate the compliment. Eastwood Textured Rust Encapsilator... hides a lot of imperfections. it is tough as nails. It is hard to even sand. I started scrapping the frame in 2000/2001. The truck has sat ever since. This is the year it runs again. The frame is thin in a few spots and the front outriggers have been replaced as well as the rear crossmember. If I ever have to make the decision to replace the frame or fix & galvanize, it would be a tough call.

I'll make you feel better... see the last pic? The right side of the crossmember? That's a big hole in my C pillar.

 

Oh, I've got a ventilated a-pillar (bulkhead) myself. Also finding a few soft spots despite the over-built nature of my frame.

I plan to cut out the soft sections (two layers on top and bottom of frame) and replace with 1/4" plate with an added drain hole. I figure, if it rusted in that spot, it's because crap is accumulating inside. The drain hole should help. I know the structure is sound and I think patching is a reasonable stop-gap in my case. I'll have to special order a replacement frame for this to retain the original "over-built" structure of it. I'll be sure to add reinforced drain holes where I found them necessary too.

My rear crossmember has a couple soft spots as well. I'm not sure if I'll replace the crossmember or just patch that too. My unusual frame has the rear jack holes welded closed from the factory, and added bracing and plating along with the other oddities...