Did you bench bleed it first before installing? I find reverse bleeding the line works the best on these. You have an air pocket in the master...

 

No, not sure how to bench bleed to be honest, put it back together, and not get fluid everywhere..

Please tell me I don't have to take the ****** Master back out...

 

You need to bench bleed the clutch master before installation.
Try having the petal all the way down and place your palm over the reservoir then lift the petal so it sucks in fluid. Repeat until pressure builds. Then with the petal down open the slave bleeder... yadda yadda

 

^this. Anytime I've used the regular Rover master I've had to do the same as well. However, I recently switched to the cast-iron Dorman conversion (thanks to Briggs talking me into it), and didn't have to bench bleed it - gravity bleeding was fine (didn't even have to use a pressure bleeder actually). I need to get off my butt and do a write-up for the Dorman conversion, it's been a great upgrade/conversion.

------ Follow up post added October 25th, 2015 06:59 PM ------

Did you bench bleed it first before installing? I find reverse bleeding the line works the best on these. You have an air pocket in the master...

Reverse bleeding it probably best...but a huge pain in the arse. That said, I've always done a traditional bleed via pressure bleeder or the old fashioned pump the pedal method.

 

I did mine recently and didn't bench bleed the master. Maybe i just got lucky...

 

The problem is normally the slave end as the routing traps a bubble. If you pull the slave and hang it down, it will bleed right away. In place you need to purge it out just the right way.

 

The pedal actually feels solid, like its disengaging the clutch. When I started, it was soft, (had to pull it back up manually). Would I be able to get pedal feel like that if it is an air bubble?

Tried backing the bleeder out even further, still nothing coming out

Frustration is setting in..

 

Got a Dribble of fluid, then nothing. Backed the bleeder out entirely, and blew compressed air through it, not the issue (not that I thought it was). I guess the next time I have time to play with the truck I will try to pull the slave (Guess I will just replace it at this point as well) and see what happens..

Looks like it is going to be a pain to get out around the exhaust :rolleyes

 

Try jacking up the front end as much as you can...

 

I'll give it a shot!

Disconnected the return spring, push the pedal with your right hand while opening the nipple with the left hand. Worked for me.

Your arms must be much longer (and stronger) than mine..

Undo the one hose that goes into the mc

Have a helper press the clutch pedal ro tye floor while you pour fluid into the opening
When the pedal is lifted it will suck the fluid in & prime the mc

Repeat a couple of times and reattach the hose. Now the mc is primed

I actually tried this last night (Cracked the Fitting at the MC and Cycled the clutch, getting fluid out around the fitting. Guess I will try it a few more times see if that helps..

Crack the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder 1/4 of a turn and attach a clear hose on it. Put the other end of the hose in the mc and secure it with a zip tie. Fill the mc with fluid. Pump the clutch pedal about 15-20 x until l all bubbles are purged

Close the bleeder nipple on the slave and remove hose
No fluid waste, no mess and your done.........

I have a bleeder bottle attached to the bleed nipple. I don't want to recycle the fluid at this point, as I want to flush the circuit first..

Had an issue like this in an MG years ago and here's what solved it.
I washed out a 90wt oil container with nipple top with alcohol.
Then cut the top off to create an opening at the very end of the nipple.
Then attached a vacuum line at the end of the nipple.
Next poked a hole in the bottom of the container.
Then filled the container with brake fluid.
Next, put some wire around the container to hang it higher than the master cylinder.
Next connected the vacuum line to the bleader on the slave cylinder.
Next hung the container upside down higher than the master cylinder.
Next cracked the metal line coming out of the master cylinder.
The fluid ran from the bottle, through the vacuum line into the slave cylinder up the line forcing out all the air.
Be sure and wash the brake fluid away so it doesn't damage the paint work.

Head Spinning, think I follow you, essentially creating a MityVac?? but I don't have access to a vacuum source..


What really baffles me at this point is how the clutch pedal can be so firm, that it feels like I am actuating the clutch, but nothing comes out of the bleeder. I would think trapped air would leave the pedal with little or no resistance?!?!

Anyway, Thanks Everyone for your input. May not be till next weekend that I get the time to get back to this and try all the suggestions. But much appreciated!

 

Disconnected the return spring, push the pedal with your right hand while opening the nipple with the left hand. Worked for me.

 

Undo the one hose that goes into the mc

Have a helper press the clutch pedal ro tye floor while you pour fluid into the opening
When the pedal is lifted it will suck the fluid in & prime the mc

Repeat a couple of times and reattach the hose. Now the mc is primed

Crack the beeder nipple on the slave cylinder 1/4 of a turn and attach a clear hose on it. Put the other end of the hose in the mc and secure it with a zip tie. Fill the mc with fluid.
Pump the clutch pedal about 15-20 x untill all bubbles are purged

Close the bleeder nipple on the slave and remove hose
No fluid waste, no mess and your done.........

 

Had an issue like this in an MG years ago and here's what solved it.
I washed out a 90wt oil container with nipple top with alcohol.
Then cut the top off to create an opening at the very end of the nipple.
Then attached a vacuum line at the end of the nipple.
Next poked a hole in the bottom of the container.
Then filled the container with brake fluid.
Next, put some wire around the container to hang it higher than the master cylinder.
Next connected the vacuum line to the bleader on the slave cylinder.
Next hung the container upside down higher than the master cylinder.
Next cracked the metal line coming out of the master cylinder.
The fluid ran from the bottle, through the vacuum line into the slave cylinder up the line forcing out all the air.
Be sure and wash the brake fluid away so it doesn't damage the paint work.