[rlynch356]

Its starting and running - so you have spark..
couple of thoughts.. there have been some instances of the "chicklet" (a resistor) getting hot and failing intermediately this interrupts the Engine speed signal signal to the ECU and shuts off the truck.
its Lucas RD953066 or FDB943 - I believe NLA now.. but you could probably source one used or build one.
Google came up with a few, but I would test it first before buying anything.

To test this theory (and it is a theory..) make a jumper wire and run the truck.. I would not do that for long as this resistor shields the ECU from voltage spikes from the coil.

Other idea is that the ignition amplifier is shorting when it gets hot.. another thing to have in the spares box (but I I only ever experienced these either not working or working however)
STC1184 - just buy a cheap one - there is no difference between OEM and others that I have seen to justify the OEM price.

At the Autocrats store you can buy one of these to test the wires to and from the distributor. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-...002STSC6?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

[Roverchef]

UPDATE. still stalling after idling for about 15min. then no start for another 15/20min.? I replaced stepper motor, coil, fuel pump relay? it will kinda restart with starting fluid so I feel like that rules out a fuel issue? how can I check if its getting spark without a timing light or expensive equipment? and without getting shocked. and I'm open to any and all suggestions as to what's causing the issue? thanks

Sounds like the Amp on the distributor is overheating.

 

[rgrentz]

what and where is the 'AMP' on the distributor and can it be replaced or do I need a whole new distributor? Prior to this I was having a hot start issue on hot summer days after driving for awhile, could this also have caused this? thanks

 

[rgrentz]

Also seems to idle a little high its just below 1000. maybe 950 is that the correct idle speed?

 

[carlosz]

are you using any kind of test equipment to validate your concerns? fuel pressure tester gauge, volt ohm meter, rovergauge software to view engine parameters.? what about information such as rave? other wise your guess is as good as that of a anyone else and replacing parts in hope of a solution is a bad idea. gets expensive, tedious exasperating and you may never know what failed and what fixed it, thus if it happens again the procedure may be bound to be repeated.

 

[rlynch356]

The Amp will be attached to the distributor on a 94' - on the side opposite of the advance hookup (the one with the tube form the manifold.. The distributor has to be removed to replace it in this location however. Rover Relocated them due to heat.

 

[rgrentz]

Update and more questions. Of so widdled it down to the AMP thingy so I am just going to replace that and the distributor (since I have to remove anyway) I would like to relocate the AMP when I hook up the new amp to the current plug it won’t start I see that there are two things on the back that plug into the Distributer where should those plug into ? Or should I just run some wires from relocation to the distributor once it’s installed? Thanks

 

[rgrentz]

 

[rgrentz]

Rovers north also sent me this for relocation?

 

[rlynch356]

So there are more parts needed to relocate it.. was that a Kit?
I don't think that is a relation kit

I just did it on a spare distributor as I was trying to get my truck back up and running.. but basically there is a plug and bracket for the plug, a different pickup inside the distributor that has to be installed, a bracket for the coil side for the Amp, and longer wiring... that you are missing.

the parts you have will replace the amp on the distributor though...

Do you have a timing light?
If not.. I would either have a shop do it, or if your feeling adventurous you can do it using the RAVE instructions.
its pretty straightforward once you have done it a time or two and have a timing light.

 

[rgrentz]

thanks to all for all your help with my many issues. apparently they no longer offer/sell the relocation kit. So I went ahead and replaced the whole distributer. things seemed to be great truck running and no stalling but just when hopes were HIGH it died on the highway on one of the coldest days here in Pittsburgh, (2 degrees). got towed home and at this point only thing to replace was fuel pump. upon replacing fuel pump to my surprise there was NO FUEL in the tank I ran outta gas!! But the gauge was reading 3/4 full? might be bad gauge but it moves to E when ignition is off? So the saga is hopefully over (kinda) for now and finally No CEL light!! and seems to be running good, for now thanks again for. all the great tips and advice ROB

 

[rlynch356]

👍 …Glad it helped...
wish I would have know you were going to replace the distributor.. there is a company in the UK Powerspark which builds a Lucas 35D distributor, and the Relocation kits.

Relocation kit..
Powerspark Ignition V8 Module Relocation Kit including Module & Harness & 3 Pin Wire

Lucas 35D - 1993-95 Defender V8's use the Late Rover V8 distributor or you can remove the drive gear from your old one.
Lucas 35D V8 Rover V8 Type Distributor from Powerspark (D2 or D29)

on the fuel gauge - I would check and see if its the gauge (easier to replace with a VDO) or the sender (which is drop the tank again time) - Or just refill it at 150 miles every time until you get around to it