[edh]

Actually had a similar experience with jumped belt due to crankshaft dampener bolt backing out.
As suggested I would remove rocker cover, inspect pushrods. You may have to remove rocker arm assembly to fully inspect. Have an egg carton handy to place the pushrods in to keep them in order. Then you can check the valves, if there is any movement side to side then the valve guides are also bad. Next step would be to pull the head, and closely inspect the hot spots for cracking. Workshop manuals are available free online, just takes some searching, although nothing beats a hard copy.
Ed

 

[Cal]

So I took the rocker cover off to look at the damage. At first glance everything looked fine. The push rods were all arrow straight and had no noticeable damage. I then took a look at the top of the head and there I noticed that a single, teeny, little valve cover was missing. I checked over the top of the valve and it didn't seem damaged. I checked the corresponding rocker arm and sure enough it looked different. Where every other rocker arm had a small ball that seemed to sit where the valve hit, this one arm had a gnarled little divot. After a better search I was able to locate a little mushroom shaped metal "ball" sitting in some oil.

It doesn't look like the valve itself is damaged, but I've started removing the head anyway, just to get a look and to replace the seals. I definitely need a new "rocker arm" for that particular valve, and a valve cover, but so far everything else looks pretty kosher.

I can't seem to find any nomenclature for what I am talking about. I have some pics that I can put on later, but I'm on mobile at the moment so I will have to describe them for now.

It is the rocker arm that hits the 5th valve from the front. And the associated "ball" attached to it. I don't know if it is an intake of exhaust valve. If someone could help me figure out the nomenclature, I could have the part ordered and the truck up and running in a week or two.

Thanks for all the help

 

[jafir]

If you google ERR4175, does it look like that?

 

[meatblanket]

You can replace a valve stem cap and rocker arm quite easily without removing the head. Fifth one back is the exhaust valve for cylinder number 3. Why not just replace the missing valve stem cap, replace the rocker arm, adjust the valve lash, and see if that solves your issue?

 

[Cal]

Jafir that is definitely the valve stem cap (which I need), but the "ball" I am talking about is attached to the rocker arm. I found the rocker arm on rovahfarm.com, but it doesn't include the ball that is attached to the end of the arm. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be permanently affixed to the arm, or if I have to buy it separately.

 

[Cal]

You can replace a valve stem cap and rocker arm quite easily without removing the head. Fifth one back is the exhaust valve for cylinder number 3. Why not just replace the missing valve stem cap, replace the rocker arm, adjust the valve lash, and see if that solves your issue?

That was the initial idea, but I have an entire new set of seals, and I already had most of the thing taken apart. At the moment I am entirely done disassembling except for actually lifting the head away. I have 1, single, f#€&$!g screw that is rusted to the hood, so I can't remove it so I can leverage the head off.

 

[Cal]

This is the item that is broken next to the same item in good shape. Can anyone tell me what this is? It screws into the "rocker arm" and directly touches the pushrods. The damaged one sheared off from the rocker and the remainder of it is mashed in tight, so it can't be removed. I am having zero luck figuring out what it is.

This is the rocker assembly and a view of the "rocker arms". The center one is obviously the damaged one, and needs replaced. The outside two are what it is supposed to look like (one complete, the other empty) I found something that I think is this item listed as a "Rocker Valve Pattern", but I have been calling it a rocker arm. Does anyone know the technical name, or part number for it? According to Meatblanket it is the Exhaust rocker for cylinder 3. I am inclined to believe him since it seems to line up with an exhaust manifold hole.

At the moment this appears to be the culprit to all of my troubles. If I can find these two parts, and 1 valve cap, this should be a quick and easy fix.

 

[jafir]

Try ERC9054 and NT108041L

 

[rdavisinva]

Cal:
You have a broken rocker adjuster which I think is the same as the 2.25.
I have loads of them if you can't get one.

 

[Cal]

You guys just solved weeks worth of headaches in just a couple minutes. I am now officially back on track for getting my truck back on the road. Thank you.

 

[rdavisinva]

Cal:
Don't take this as harsh, but you actually have no idea what so ever as to what is wrong with your 110.
You're relying on some forum research and the word of a retired mechanic who may or may not have any idea what he is talking about.
You need to stop relying on speculation and do one of 2 things:
Figure out exactly what is wrong or have someone who knows these engines fix it for you.

You guys just solved weeks worth of headaches in just a couple minutes. I am now officially back on track for getting my truck back on the road. Thank you.

Self Reliance is the most freedom filled scenario when it comes to fixing and thus owning your Land Rover.
It was you who found the issue and it will be you who fixes it.
When it's fixed you can ball up both hands into a fist, hold them up while you yell "ALRIGHT".
In the mean time, get another adjuster, but also inspect your push rod by rolling it on a flat surface.
If it wobbles excessively (especially compared to one that is straight), you need to replace it as well.
When you reassemble, make sure all the "balls" at the end of the adjusters fit into the push rods when all the push rods are "home" - all the way down in the lifters.
The push rods and thus rockers will be at different deck heights compared to the horizontal surface of the head.
This is normal as this is what opens and closes the valves.
The manual will provide the valve adjustment clearance and a complicated procedure for adjusting this valve when some other one is fully open... whatever it is ignore it and follow these much simpler instructions.
When one of the rockers on a particular cylinder is all the way down, then set the clearance on the opposite valve on the same cylinder.
Leave the key off and put the vehicle in 5th gear high range unlocked.
Did I mention make sure the key is off???
Then push or have someone push the LR forward (never backwards) to position the engine where it needs to be for each adjustment, then put it in neutral, adjust the particular valve, and repeat until they are all done.
Before you start loosen all the adjustment lock nuts, that nut that holds the adjuster locked...
That way you need not keep track of which one was loosened and adjusted, just loosen them all, and as they are tightened, you know they are adjusted.

Besides self reliance, this lesson will prove to you that doing extended research on something that has not be investigated with a tear down is a waste of time...
AND
Don't take advice from these "experts" that are attempting to diagnose a problem when they have not picked up a wrench to make a scientific attempt to take the engine (or whatever the case) apart to actually find the real problem.
Remember peoples egos come into play when they can boast about how much they know and how smart they are, especially when they have no idea what if anything is wrong while they provide you with a bucket full of incorrect smelly advice.
Someone not willing to use tools over their mouth is usually a waste of time to interact with.

It drives people crazy when they explain some problem and I personally tell them I don't know what's wrong because I haven't looked at or torn apart your LR.
Washing the dishes by hand helps get your hands clean if you don't wear gloves... now get the parts and get to work !!!
Then get busy enjoying your 110.

 

[down_shift]

On all fronts, this thread represents what it's all about. Thumbs.

 

[Red90]

Do you have the factory workshop and part manuals? You can download them here: http://www.landroverweb.com/landrov.../pdf-land-rover-manuals/defender-puma-td5-300tdi-200tdi-turbo-diesel-v8-petrol/

That will answer your questions on part numbers and show you the correct assembly procedures.

 

[1of40]

On all fronts, this thread represents what it's all about. Thumbs.

agreed

 

[Cal]

All right, update...

I pulled the head (which was reeeally easy so far) and I started to scrape the old gasket off of the block. While I was scraping I noticed this:

If you cannot see, there are hairline cracks coming away from the hole that appears to be the bottom of where the injectors sit. On the other side of what the picture shows, the hole is chipped pretty badly. The worse news is that they all look like this.

Like I have openly admitted before; I know nothing about engines. To me, this seems pretty serious. Like head replacement imminent - serious. My plan of action at the moment is to just replace the gasket and try to drive it around until 1 of two things happens. 1) I find a 200tdi that I can afford to replace it, or 2) it dies on me.

Has anyone encountered this before? I have no gauge as to if this is something that will be fine to drive around for months or years, or if this is something that will deadline the engine immediately. Obviously you guys arent here looking at it with me, so I wont hold anyone accountable if they say one thing and it dies as soon as i put it together. I just want to know if its dangerous to drive or if it will burst into flames or something.

Either way, It looks like my timeline for a 200tdi just got a lot shorter.

 

[meatblanket]

No need for a new head. Cracks in the hotspots (that's the round thing pressed into the head) are expected. They are a problem if they go too long or go all the way through to the perimeter of the hotspot. Land Rover publishes a specification for the permissible length of those cracks, I think it's 8mm but you might check on that. What I see in the picture looks ok to me.

You can replace the hotspots if you want but new ones would soon look like that and it seems a waste of $$ to me.

 

[Red90]

If in doubt, read the workshop manual. Make sure you have the manual and read through it carefully and make sure you check everything shown.

This is the bit on cracks in the hot spots.

Hot plugs and injector shrouds -examine and renew
When carrying out normal top overhaul work on the cylinder head it is not necessary to remove either the injector shrouds or the hot plugs. Small surface cracks in the hot plug, extending from the opening to approximately 8,O mm (0.312 in) in length can be ignored. However, if any severe cracks appear on the face of the hot plugs before attempting to remove it, closely inspect the cylinder head for signs of cracks, particularly between the inlet and exhaust valve seats. Such cracking indicates that the engine has overheated, usually through lack of coolant, and the cylinder head should be scrapped.

 

[Red90]

I would also suggest that you get any replacement parts from Turner as you can be assured they are supplying known quality parts.

http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/2.5_Diesel.html

 

[Mybluett]

Cal,

If you want used parts we've got a couple engines worth of 2.5 stuff in the shop from the several tdi conversions we've done this year. Send me an email with what you need and USPS flat rate should have it to SoCal in 2-days. We also have most all the new parts as well.

brian@defendersnw.com

 

[Cal]

I finally received all of the parts that I needed and slapped it all together. It only took around 6 months for the parts to come in… I had a buddy give me a pull start and then waited a day and it was able to start again without the pull start.

Now that it is back together the engine shakes hard. Like really, really hard. It feels like it is going to break out of the mounting brackets. I am currently assuming that I have a misfiring cylinder or two.

Ive been looking around for what to do next, but so far everything is pointing to towing it in and paying the big bucks. Unfortunately at the moment it isn't financially or logistically possible to do an engine swap.

Starting from the least invasive to most, what can I do to try to fix it on my own? This engine seems to be more effort than it is worth, but now my pride is at stake. I have to fix this heap.