Practice makes perfect. It’s definitely a trial and error job if you’ve not got mechanical experience. If you have a lift on this truck you need a dc front shaft.

 

FOUND IT!!!

well the front U-Joint is trashed. Front axle is wobbling. Sooo. Once I get the axle off, how do we get the U joints out? They seemed fixed? Thank you all for your help!!!!

 

FOUND IT!!!

well the front U-Joint is trashed. Front axle is wobbling. Sooo. Once I get the axle off, how do we get the U joints out? They seemed fixed? Thank you all for your help!!!!

May be worth having a driveline shop do it. Then they will balance it too.

 

a little more clarity - my symptoms were letting off the gas at highway speeds. Guaranteed nasty vibration. again - we swapped U joints and upgraded driveshafts (on both trucks) and the problem disappeared)

 

Exactly what I had, new driveshaft corrected


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I had similar symptoms on my 97. Kind of felt like it was often in the steering wheel, but other times felt like the whole car vibrating. Hard to pin down - sometimes tagged to accelerator - but might have been more about a specific speed. For me - turned out to be very loose swivel top-pin bolts on front wheels. Get a 17mm wrench - and make sure they are torqued to 65 NM to rule that out.

 

had this on both of my NAS's.

UJ and driveshaft replacements fixed the both.

 

Air up/rebalance tires, grease propshafts, check t case fluid level, check bushings in: front bars, rear a frame and rear trailing arms. Also check wheel bolts are torqued up. Doesn’t take much to create that driveline vibration, but easy to work down the check list.

 

Its tough to just look at DS to determine if they are about to explode. They sb taken off and serviced. UJ’s are cheap insurance and at 25yo they sb checked for balance, taken apart and greased. Do one fix at a time so you know what’s worked and what’s not. IME, reason you’re experiencing the vibe when you’re on the gas is bc the rear axle is pivoting. As it pivots it binds the UJ and the UJ wears. If you have a lift then that pivot is more pronounced and to fix the pinion angle you need to adjust the rear trailing arms. You should also check all your bushings bc as they get old and dry and shrink they aren’t able to do their job as well as they did in 97. And lastly, check the rear ball joint. As it wears it introduces play in the whole rear suspension which adds stress to everything mentioned above.

 

It seems like something in the transmission...ill start with the DS and UJ....ill find a place to order them. thank you

 

Check prop shaft. Grease it and drive. I had similar on a RRC and it ended up being prop shaft. Replaced with GBR and zero noise or vibration.


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You wrote that it comes and goes with the gas pedal — is that a reference to the vibration starting at 40mph during acceleration or do you feel the vibration in the pedal? If not the pedal, do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel? How did you check to see if the U-joints were good?

 

correct the vibration stops when I remove my foot from the pedal. So if coasting, the vibration goes away. I don’t feel it in the wheel. I checked play in the drive shaft to see if the U joints were out of spec

Check prop shaft. Grease it and drive. I had similar on a RRC and it ended up being prop shaft. Replaced with GBR and zero noise or vibration.


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are saying pull both shafts and grease input?