Watch some videos on how to repack your bearings and you'll be fine.

 

pretty easy. and rears are easier than fronts. you need a hub nut socket. and use Bill Burke's trick of going to Home Depot and getting a plastic PVC drain plug to use for seating your seal in the hub. I think it's 4", take your seal with you to match up diameter.

Basic things like this are so well covered by Rave that all you need to do is solve for special tool reference and go by the book.

good luck

 

If you are in need of new brakes, or another victim of the "while-your-at-it" syndrome, you can get new rotors for pretty cheap and then just put new bearings in the new rotors. Then you don't have to mess with getting the old bearing races out.

Also in my opinion not a bad time to pick up the harbor freight bearing race and seal drift set. You can use an old bearing race to help put them in, but that little kit has come in handy a number of times for me.

Otherwise a real straight forward job. Most places sell the seal kits too, new seals, bearing, and new retaining washers. Give Trevor at rovahfarm a call.

 

Agree with all that has been said. Just study up on the replacement of the seal carefully given you've not seen it done before. When the seal goes in correctly no problem. If the seal gets pinched and torn then you'll eventually be doing it twice. Good Luck!

 

If drum brakes in back, undo drum retaining screw(s) and remove drum. If disc undo caliper attaching bolts and carefully bend caliper up and out of the way.
Pop off dust cap. Undo spring clip if equipped along with shims and set aside.
Remove the drive flange bolts (5) and set aside. Withdraw axle shaft if one piece, or remove drive flange and set aside.
You will see a large washer that has been bent. Using a flat screwdriver and a mallet, drive the bend flat so that the nut can be removed. remove nut, washer, inner nut, thick washer. Pull outward on hub being sure to catch the bearing if it falls out.
To dismantle hub, pry out inner hub seal and remove inner bearing cage. You should be left with only the bearing cups in the hub. Drive these out using a long drift or punch. Work from one side to the other rocking them out.
Thoroughly clean hub inside.
lightly grease outside of bearing cups and drive them in using the old cups as buffers. You'll reach a point where the old cups will get stuck so switch to your brass drift when that happens. Alternately, take the hub and cups to a shop and have them press in the cups. Cost should be minimal.
Thoroughly pack the inner race with new grease, drop it in hub and install new inner hub seal. Pack in more grease. Install hub onto stub axle. Grease outer race and cup and slide onto stub axle. Install thick washer, adjusting nut and adjust hub. Install new flat washer and locknut and tighten, Check hub for runout. If happy, bend up one side of the flat washer to lock the outer nut in place. Put the rest back together with new gasket on drive flange.
I would say here that this should be done in conjunction with new rotors and pads or drums and shoes. Since that job requires as much effort as the new bearings the two jobs done at the same time is a time saver.

 

If drum brakes in back, undo drum retaining screw(s) and remove drum. If disc undo caliper attaching bolts and carefully bend caliper up and out of the way. Pop off dust cap. Undo spring clip if equipped along with shims and set aside. Remove the drive flange bolts (5) and set aside. Withdraw axle shaft if one piece, or remove drive flange and set aside. You will see a large washer that has been bent. Using a flat screwdriver and a mallet, drive the bend flat so that the nut can be removed. remove nut, washer, inner nut, thick washer. Pull outward on hub being sure to catch the bearing if it falls out. To dismantle hub, pry out inner hub seal and remove inner bearing cage. You should be left with only the bearing cups in the hub. Drive these out using a long drift or punch. Work from one side to the other rocking them out. Thoroughly clean hub inside. lightly grease outside of bearing cups and drive them in using the old cups as buffers. You'll reach a point where the old cups will get stuck so switch to your brass drift when that happens. Alternately, take the hub and cups to a shop and have them press in the cups. Cost should be minimal. Thoroughly pack the inner race with new grease, drop it in hub and install new inner hub seal. Pack in more grease. Install hub onto stub axle. Grease outer race and cup and slide onto stub axle. Install thick washer, adjusting nut and adjust hub. Install new flat washer and locknut and tighten, Check hub for runout. If happy, bend up one side of the flat washer to lock the outer nut in place. Put the rest back together with new gasket on drive flange. I would say here that this should be done in conjunction with new rotors and pads or drums and shoes. Since that job requires as much effort as the new bearings the two jobs done at the same time is a time saver.

Bill ur old school. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ALTj4OEV5Gc

 

I have some videos and other pics and stuff in here. The rave and a few YouTube videos (and the proper tools) are all you need.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26130&page=3

 

Thanks!! And they are disc brakes. I'll let you guys know how it goes. There was no squeak this morning. I may just end up greasing them for the time being. When inspecting them what should I look for?

 

When inspecting them what should I look for?

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/maintdiag/documents/6347.pdf

If you're replacing your bearing no need to fool with prying the seal out. Just use a punch to knock the inner cone out and the seal with come with it.

Use new RTC3511 seals. Some photos here of seating them.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...m/threads/66513-What-is-the-correct-orientation-of-wheel-bearing-oil-seals-D110

 

http://bb4wa.com/wheel-bearing-maintenance-and-packing-for-land-rovers/

 

Slow speed squeek I would look at your rear and front prop shafts first ..possibly dry u-joints.
If your doing the wheel bearings make sure you clean all the grease out and inspect each roller for wear or burn mark you'll know hwn you see a bad one but usually if there that bad you'll get a groan not a squeek...hope that helps

 

Slow speed squeek I would look at your rear and front prop shafts first ..possibly dry u-joints. If your doing the wheel bearings make sure you clean all the grease out and inspect each roller for wear or burn mark you'll know hwn you see a bad one but usually if there that bad you'll get a groan not a squeek...hope that helps

Thanks! I greases the u joints and nothing changed. I'm just hoping it's not the carrier bearings I'm hearing. This would be the 3rd time I've blown a carrier...not even off-roading much.

 

What is the frequency of the squeak?
Like others have said, might be your UJ's
Jack it up, chalk it, put it in neutral and rotate the wheels.

 

In a few North America Overland build photos, they place the rear wheel on before replacing the Driving Member. Is their a reason for doing this?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/100668015@N06/9571805099/in/album-72157635183466481/