There are a lot of unrelated things that can cause those noises. For instance, I had a very worn-out steering joint that allowed a lot of the longer steering rods too much clearance, resulting in a bonking sound when accellerating, shifting and stopping quickly.

Other folks have had similar sounds coming from worn out suspension bushings.

The stock style cats have a tendency to break apart internally sometimes, which causes rattling noises at times.

I'd start by just getting under there when the truck is cool, grabbing various things and giving them a good shake.

-Hans

 

I would start by checking the frame-to-trailing arm bushing and frame to radius arm bushings as well as your rear A-Arm joint. Since you are referring to accel/brake occurances, these make most sense to me.

 

x2 check your bushings....

Are you refering to the slack in the drivetrain?

How loud of a "bonk"?

 

I plan to get under it tomorrow and shake some stuff around. I'll check the bushings too. The rear links are new, so hope those aren't bad already. Could be the front radius arms. Those are still stock. Its just kinds weird that it was not there prior to mounts and shafts, then bang!

It sounds like someone taking a hammer and hitting the frame. Would this start in the drivetrain after double cardan shafts allievate angle issues?

 

Well, checked everything. Seems fine. Drove around and the clanging noise still there. Think either new u-joint bad or transfer case. Really strange. I am baffled.

 

Did you check the A-arm ball joint? If so, how did you check it?

 

Visually checked it and grabbed it to see if it was loose. Seemed okay. Is there another way to check it? Clue me in.
The clanging noise seems to occur when rpms are around 2000 and decelerating. Its like a bonk, bonk, bonk, as the driveshaft comes to a stop and is rotating. May be out of balance or input/output angle issue?

 

Might also be a bad U-joint, they can be deceptively hard to diagnose. To really check them, you need to chock the rear wheels and put everything in neutral. Otherwise, because of the location of the parking brake, the tension on the driveshaft can make them SEEM solid even if they are about to collapse.

-Hans

 

These are brand new. Guess there could always be a bad one.

 

Some friends of mine think it is coming from the transfer case. Anything in there that could be causing this noise?

 

Some friends of mine think it is coming from the transfer case. Anything in there that could be causing this noise?

Hand brake shoe?

 

Checked the hand brake shoe. Its okay. 95% sure its the Transfer Case. Time to think about options of repair. Its getting worse eveyday.

 

What are the options for the transfer case? Places to buy or rebuild? What have all of you done that had tc issues?
Got under truck again with it running and can hear a grinding type noise coming from the case. It may "explode" any day! My guess is that previous owner mechanic rounded off the fill plug on the transfer case. Last time oil was replaced, had to fill thru sensor. Done by dealer. My guess is that the gears are worn out due to abuse and since the drivetrain geometry has been corrected with new motor mounts and trans mounts, and new shafts, new diffs, etc., the bearing is bouncing around in the case and gear wear is more evident. Hope this diagnostic is correct! Sounds good anyway. Thanks for all of your suggestions.

 

New or reman for George

 

Well, I also suggest checking if it's the "Clunk of doom" before ordering a transfer case. It may actually be the transmission output shaft wearing out, which extends into the transfer case. This would mean a new transmission, but the transfer case would be fine still.

Thankfully, that can be checked without much hassle. You just need to remove the PTO cover from the transfer case and the input gear will slide out for inspection. There are a few good websites that covert the problem, I'll see if I can dig them up later.

-Hans

 

Thank you Hans. Will need to check that too. Can you explain how the dealer refilled the transfer case through the sensor? I would need to do the same since the fill plug will not come out. If it is the transmission output shaft, how long will it last before it goes? I may have multiple issues going on, which may result in both the transmission and transfer case. That would really suck.

 

Refilled through the sensor? Maybe he removed the speedometer cable and filled through there? He would have to use one of those syphon tools, I forget the correct name.... it looks like giant syringe but with a flexible tube instead of a needle... I got mine at Napa.

Anyways, the output shaft could last months if you baby it (and if it IS actually a problem), or it could go anytime. Most people that had it go bad say it just goes out on them suddenly with no real warning, just CLUNK and the truck don't move anymore. But because the output shaft from the tranny goes really far into the transfer case, the problem will sound like it's the transfer going, even though the part that is failing is part of the transmission.

-Hans

 

Can the shaft be replaced with the transfer case removed, or do you have to drop the transmission too? All I see are $$$$.
Another question, if one or the other or both need replacement, would you deal directly with Ashcroft in England or would you work through Atantic British or Rover North type outfit here in the states? Any cost savings? Thanks again for the feedback.

 

Is that shaft a common problem on the 90's? I thought they addressed it in the 90's by adding an oil passage and that it was only really a problem on the '93 110's. I'm intrigued now...

 

The shaft was an issue on the earlier 90's with the LT-77's as well, and not all of them got the retrofit parts. I've also heard that in some cases the LT-77's were replaced with R-380's under warranty.

Unfortunately, replacing the shaft means tearing down the transmission. But it is possible that it's already been repaired/upgraded, which is why you need to check before spending money on replacing the whole transmission.

You also mentioned that you need to replace the transfer case, what's wrong with it? They are usually one of the more durable parts of the truck.

 

Any updates?

 

Just want to say thanks to all for the help. Under advice from Steve and Drew at Rovertym, I re-checked the rear pinion angle again. Took all the spacers out of the Rovertym rear links. So far, the banging, clanging noise I was hearing has gone away. The other noises, playing card in bike spokes, etc, are still there. My guess is tranny output shaft or TC input. At this time, plan to ride it till something breaks or gets to the point of having to replace. Hope it doesn't happen on my way out to Utah next year!