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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for suggestions for steel wheel n tire sizes n makes for general off road conditions. ( rocky Mountain area, not mud bogs for example) have 3" lift for space but unsure on wheel off set or prefered tire size with rover rear end gearing etc. Just like something other than street wheels n tires for off road events.

Thanks
 

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I have been happy with the duratrac... 285 75 16 on wolfes but rim width may be a bit small
 

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My preference is 7.50R16 (or LT235/85R16) on Wolf's. I find they do well with stock gearing, and i like skinny tires.
 

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Google "Modular" steel wheel. These are the cheapest option and are available in a variety of rim widths (up to 10"+) and offsets. Can be had for as little as $50 a wheel new.

As Mike mentioned, another alternative is the "Wolf" steel wheel. There are multiple versions of this steel wheel. There is an authentic version as well as some copies. They come in tubed and tubeless versions as well. They are fairly narrow wheels, but are constructed to have a 2200kg rating. I don't know much about these wheels so hopefully others can chime in.

This is a good resource to become educated about Wolf Wheels:
http://www.landroverexpedition.com/equipment/wolf-wheels/
 

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That is a terrible article full of misinformation.
lmfao

------ Follow up post added September 15th, 2015 02:31 PM ------

Gulf Coast Rovers used to offer and wheel made by american racing for reasonable money. I have several sets of wolf aka nato aka 130 wheels and dont get the hype

Home | Gulf Coast Rovers
 

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What is wrong with it?
really Ed? Hmmm, lets see...

>a fully loaded Defender comfortably on one wheel - a possible situation you may find yourself in on tricky terrain. –

If you only have one wheel on the ground regardless of terrain, load capacity of the rim is the least of your concerns

>In my case, the modulars are an inch shorter than the Wolfs wheels with their standard 7.50R16 tyres,

This is a tire size issue that has zip(0) to do with wheels.

>There are two types of Wolf rim. (Well, three but ANR1543PM is superceded).

ANR1534 is a NATO/130/1-ton rim that is not and AFAIK has never been a Wolf rim.

>The ANR5593 is meant to be used with tubes whilst the ANR4583 with tubeless tires. Tubeless tyres are considered to have better strength and durability, but tubed tyres are easier to repair.
Tubed tires have to have the tube removed to make a repair. Tubless you just put a plug and keep going. Of course there are other situations that could happen, but overall I’m not sure if this really applies. If you carry a radial tube or two you can always turn your tubeless tire into a tubed one.

>The consensus is that you can fit tubeless tyres to tubed rims with tubes,

With, or without, as many have been doing for fracking ever.

>but not tubed tyres to tubeless rims. This is because tubeless rims have an extra ridge that eventually wears on the tubes.

No idea why someone would pay the premium for tubeless rims and then put tubes in the tires. Do the tubeless LR rims even have a valve hole large enough for the tube’s valve to pass through? I can’t see the bead retention ridge causing a problem, its just rounded hump. This guy is just repeating crap he hears on the interwebs.

>Although, it is also said that fitting tubeless tyres to tubed rims are prone to >leaking because of the bead not sealing properly, but there are also accounts of this >not being an issue.

News flash, this can happen with tubeless tires on tubeless rims too! Oh my GOD! And wait…sometimes- get this... it DOESN’T HAPPEN!! This is because sometimes the tires are correctly installed on a clean mounting surface. And sometimes, good rims go bad. I had some wood get wedged in my tire’s beads. A couple times. For fudges sake.

>The Wolf wheel you don't want to use with tubeless tyres is ANR1543PM, as this is a Tubed rivetted construction and is not as air-tight as the later welded rims.

This can be a problem. But not a big enough problem to suggest eschewing them altogether. Unless of course you are on that solo expedition with no way to add air to a tire. In which case you may need to stop fretting over wheels and get your fuggin head examined.

>In any case, this tubed wheel/tubeless tyre combo probably has a tube in it

Maybe, maybe not. Pretty easy to tell. IF, and only if, you have the gift of sight AND a freaking clue.

Here's the link again in case anyone hasn't read it yet.
Internet Wannabe Talks About Stuff He Knows Nothing About | Land Rover Expedition


 

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Need to know what you have for power and if you are up for re-gearing to recommend a tire size. Then you can figure out what tread will work for the terrain.

I am a fan of Wolfs. Even the cheap repo's are thick gauge and tough. And they look just right on a Defender.

Stock Disco 1 steels are an option but the offset is stock and the outer steel is more light duty. I bent pretty easily with a 315 on it so it had plenty of side protection. I think a Disco 1 steelie cut out and a thicker outer rim welded onto it with more offset would be great.

Modular's are cheap and can come in various sizes but I hate how they look. Just too generic / Jeep for me.
 

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The 15x8 desert rover?s Doug posted will clear 35" tires with your 3" springs IIRC. Those wheels with 33x10.5 Should help your steering radius over stock esp 285's on stock wheels . Those wolfs are mostly foroverlanding and the extra weight of the roof tents. I imagine they are tough but quite heavy .

Ive not been particularly easy to the alloys on my Classic and have never lost a beat or sprung a leak .
 

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really Ed? Hmmm, lets see... >a fully loaded Defender comfortably on one wheel - a possible situation you may find yourself in on tricky terrain. – If you only have one wheel on the ground regardless of terrain, load capacity of the rim is the least of your concerns >In my case, the modulars are an inch shorter than the Wolfs wheels with their standard 7.50R16 tyres, This is a tire size issue that has zip(0) to do with wheels. >There are two types of Wolf rim. (Well, three but ANR1543PM is superceded). ANR1534 is a NATO/130/1-ton rim that is not and AFAIK has never been a Wolf rim. >The ANR5593 is meant to be used with tubes whilst the ANR4583 with tubeless tires. Tubeless tyres are considered to have better strength and durability, but tubed tyres are easier to repair. Tubed tires have to have the tube removed to make a repair. Tubless you just put a plug and keep going. Of course there are other situations that could happen, but overall I’m not sure if this really applies. If you carry a radial tube or two you can always turn your tubeless tire into a tubed one. >The consensus is that you can fit tubeless tyres to tubed rims with tubes, With, or without, as many have been doing for fracking ever. >but not tubed tyres to tubeless rims. This is because tubeless rims have an extra ridge that eventually wears on the tubes. No idea why someone would pay the premium for tubeless rims and then put tubes in the tires. Do the tubeless LR rims even have a valve hole large enough for the tube’s valve to pass through? I can’t see the bead retention ridge causing a problem, its just rounded hump. This guy is just repeating crap he hears on the interwebs. >Although, it is also said that fitting tubeless tyres to tubed rims are prone to >leaking because of the bead not sealing properly, but there are also accounts of this >not being an issue. News flash, this can happen with tubeless tires on tubeless rims too! Oh my GOD! And wait…sometimes- get this... it DOESN’T HAPPEN!! This is because sometimes the tires are correctly installed on a clean mounting surface. And sometimes, good rims go bad. I had some wood get wedged in my tire’s beads. A couple times. For fudges sake. >The Wolf wheel you don't want to use with tubeless tyres is ANR1543PM, as this is a Tubed rivetted construction and is not as air-tight as the later welded rims. This can be a problem. But not a big enough problem to suggest eschewing them altogether. Unless of course you are on that solo expedition with no way to add air to a tire. In which case you may need to stop fretting over wheels and get your fuggin head examined. >In any case, this tubed wheel/tubeless tyre combo probably has a tube in it Maybe, maybe not. Pretty easy to tell. IF, and only if, you have the gift of sight AND a freaking clue. Here's the link again in case anyone hasn't read it yet. Internet Wannabe Talks About Stuff He Knows Nothing About | Land Rover Expedition
Dave I'm really high right now and that was by far the funniest response I've ever read. I can't stop laughing.

The whole time I was reading it, I was saying it in your voice and it was spot on.
 

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Daniel, I think your response may be even more funny than Dave's response. But then I have only been drinking beer.
 

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Any love for the saw tooth wheels? I like the look but don't think they would make it off road...
The td Dakar wheels also look interesting but...
 
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