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Head work... a head gasket blew so now I’m servicing the top end... bit of port work while I’m in there.
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[Last Sunday]

Installed a set of RM door tops, really nice :love:
I need to refurbish a couple of Series door bottoms and the package will be complete.
Hopefully by the winter :rolleyes:

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Replaced serpentine pulley tensioner yesterday. This tensioner looked a little different than my old one but seemed to fit just fine. Hopefully won't start chirping next time I spray off the engine bay.
Today replaced the two rear speakers with these Quinn Acoustics 6.5" speakers seen here Quinn Acoustics QE602 6.5 Inch Coaxial Speaker Pair
They sound pretty good and I like how the original speaker grills fit.
 

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1988 ROW 110 From w/ LS3 6L80E
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I did not install them but as I took them out they install very straight forward. No mods what so ever to the body. Just screwed the exmoor seat frames into the mounting holes then seats to frame. All three reclined individually and are modular. Could use two with a cubby in the middle or all three. Each seat has its own frame.

My new seat base was one piece and required some mods to the base so it cleared the wheel wells. Nothing major just a lot of figuring out with no instructions outside of the sales reps 'should fit right in no issues' directions which delayed me as I assumed it should just fit. Took time with me fighting it in and out of the truck with great hesitation of cutting into it just to find out I screwed it up.. If I had to do it again it would take half the time.

After a few hours I looked at the exmoors sitting there and thought ...what the f*** am I doing this for. Those were so easy!
 

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Thanks. I am looking to do the 2 seats and a cubby in the middle for the lads. Better than the originals low backs. Saw you were going to offer up the exmoors. What are you thinking for 2 front and left and right middle, if you would split them.
 

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1994 NAS D90
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ARB bumper showed up today for my front end rejuvenation. Waiting for a new fairlead, grill and light panels now. Soon I'll have nothing left to replace!

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I'll jump in. I got all my brake lines done front to back with a new MC, booster, and proportioning valve thanks to help from Napalm and Roadworn. Then I got some 2x2 aluminum and scraps around my garage and built a bike rack. It will fit the Defender when it's done so I figured it counts. Just waiting for the straps for the rear wheels.

Sean
 

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I'll jump in. I got all my brake lines done front to back with a new MC, booster, and proportioning valve thanks to help from Napalm and Roadworn. Then I got some 2x2 aluminum and scraps around my garage and built a bike rack. It will fit the Defender when it's done so I figured it counts. Just waiting for the straps for the rear wheels.

Sean
Niceone! that looks super clean!
 

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New bumper, new KBX grill (headlight surrounds will go on when I do the LED light upgrade), and OEM A-bar...will have to decide what lights I will mount on the bar..
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1988 ROW 110 From w/ LS3 6L80E
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126 Posts
Front and back power windows

Power door locks (previously done but updated switch)

New ome front shocks and steering dampner.

Starting to install a wireless charging pad in the center console!

Next need to clean up the wiring and install this new fuse box relay in the center console!

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I am just about to do do the Power Windows & Power Locks using all OEM...did you run the PW through a relay or just like factory....and if you used the OEM lock actuators do they work similar to the windows by reversing polarity..? BTW what relay / fuse block is that?



Front and back power windows

Power door locks (previously done but updated switch)

New ome front shocks and steering dampner.

Starting to install a wireless charging pad in the center console!

Next need to clean up the wiring and install this new fuse box relay in the center console!




View attachment 447630
 

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1988 ROW 110 From w/ LS3 6L80E
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The lock actuators were aftermarket. I'm my other truck (h1 Hummer) I had better luck with aftermarket actuators than one so stuck to that plan. Ran pw through a relay as I have the switches in non oem locations and switch design needed to match my other switches. Plus I'm putting all custom electrical running to a central fuse and relay block so it's easier to manage from original equipment and keeps it completely isolated. The next owner won't end up with a puzzle to deal with.

Block was.from Amazon from concourse specialties. Expensive ( $150) but it's well built and quality components from what I can tell and has mount brackets that will fit in my ashcroft center console below the tray insert. I had built a panel on my own but this looks cleaner.
 
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