[o2batsea]

Don't overthink it. Get a big syringe. Suck out as much fluid from the reservoir as you can. Fill with new.
You're then just bleeding the brakes like normal. If you have a helper who can pump the pedal for you, do that. You need a box end wrench for the bleed nipples (10 or 11mm, can't recall) a bit of 3/16 clear plastic hose and an empty Deer Park water bottle. I poke a hole in the cap so the hose goes thru the cap, preventing spills.
Start at left rear wheel. Stick the plastic hose on the end of the bleed nipple, and the other end in the water bottle. Have friend push down on pedal. Crack bleed nipple to let pressure out. Close bleed nipple. Tell friend to let up on pedal. Repeat about ten times or until fluid runs clear. Don't over tighten the nipple when you're done on that wheel.
Move to right rear and do this again. Then right front then left front.

 

[o2batsea]

If you don't have a friend to push the pedal, use a length of wood maybe a 2x2 or the like. You have to get the length based on how far from the pedal to the seat base where you're gonna jam the end. So, you push the pedal until it won't go any more, jam your wooden helper between the pedal and the seat, then go open and close the brake nipple. Repeat until done or you're out of breath whichever comes first.

I have the easy bleed kit which I have never used, it's too fussy.

 

[o2batsea]

Can you get non-synthetic brake fluid anymore?
The DOT rating is like the API rating on your engine oil. I just means that it meets specifications for all passenger car braking systems. It doesn't mean that using DOT 3 will eat up your seals or vise versa. I personally prefer the Castrol DOT4 when I can find it. However, you can use any brand even the store brands cz they get it from the major manufacturers and put it in their own bottles.
Using pure silicone fluid (DOT5) in a system with DOT 3/4 is a no no. Stay away from that stuff. I tried it once and that was enough for me.

 

[o2batsea]

I will be working solo so tricks and tools are great for me to ponder.




Using the 2x4 helper I can leave the brake depressed and move from corner to corner without touching the “helper” again, correct?

Simply top off the reservoir as I flush, correct?

You have to reset the 2x4 every time you crack open and close the bleeder. So if I understand the question the answer is no. You in fact have to reset the helper about 30 or 40 times. You pump the pedal until you get pressure, jam the helper in there and go crack the bleeder ONCE, then close it. This will depressurized the line so you have to go pump it up again. Repeat as necessary so that only clear fluid no bubbles are coming thru the clear plastic hose. It sounds tedious and it is indeed but it doesn't take that long to do a corner. Maybe 5 minutes. By the time you get to the last corner you will find that there is significant resistance on the pedal and you may need to move the seat back to allow you to get the helper in there at all. Yeh if I didn't mention this, start with the seat moved all the way forward. You may need to adjust this according to your truck. On mine, if I use just the seat cushion, the pedal will push the cushion right off the base. I use the slider release bar and that can be an issue as it tends to lift.

 

[o2batsea]

You start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder (measured by length of brake tubing) and work toward the closest. The side you steer from isn't critical.
I'll take a guess that it's going to be the left rear that you start with, then right rear, left front, then finish with right front.
I would say you need one big bottle of brake fluid, or two small.
Depending on the age of the braking system, you may want to have a few extra bleed screws on hand.

 

[o2batsea]

They are metric and you need an 11mm wrench on them