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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I'd check the vac advance on the distributor as well make sure it is working when vac applied
When I took it to the only mechanic around my area who thought he could set up the carb. a few weeks back , he checked all those things and said everything is working as it should be. All the settings were correct but he had never seen a weber with electrical parts and was not willing to touch the carburetor settings for that reason. The one thing I'm not sure of is what thermostat I have in the motor. The heat gauge needle sits at the 12 o'clock position when fully warmed up. I have noticed that if it is the slightest bit below that the problem is much worse. I'm wondering if their is a higher temp thermostat available. Maybe it's just not hot enough.
 

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It's definitely not the thermostat.

Carb needs to be tuned by someone competent, call air-cooled vw shops to start, then hot rod resto shops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
It's definitely not the thermostat.

Carb needs to be tuned by someone competent, call air-cooled vw shops to start, then hot rod resto shops.
Unfortunately I live in a small northern community with 2 gas stations and a Chinese food restaurant. It's about 350 miles to a big city where those kind of shops would be. It's all pick up trucks, snowmobiles and atv's around here. North American vehicles, Chevy, Dodge, and I think the Ford dealership closed.
 

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car clubs, LR clubs, put up a craigslist post, start reading yourself....has to be someone


even an old school motorcycle shop or snowmobile shop may be able to help
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
car clubs, LR clubs, put up a craigslist post, start reading yourself....has to be someone


even an old school motorcycle shop or snowmobile shop may be able to help
Here's my old school snowmobile shop experience. I took my 1985 Suzuki 4 wheeler to fix an intermittent spark problem I was having and after a week he brought back to house and dropped it off. I took it into my favorite lake trout lake and by the end of the trip it was getting hard to start . I took it back to him and left it with him. It's still there after 3 years. He claims to have tried everything he could think of and it's still there. It's been 3 years now. He has tried used parts and can't find new parts so I'm not too confident in his abilities.
 

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In that case it’s likely best to tear it down for a rebuild. Order in a selection of jets for it beforehand so that you can adjust in the bench. I’d also go to the UK based rover forums as well as the Weber Facebook group to see if anyone has a good jetting baseline for that motor. I suspect that with the right jets, emulsion tubes, etc you’ll sort it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
In that case it’s likely best to tear it down for a rebuild. Order in a selection of jets for it beforehand so that you can adjust in the bench. I’d also go to the UK based rover forums as well as the Weber Facebook group to see if anyone has a good jetting baseline for that motor. I suspect that with the right jets, emulsion tubes, etc you’ll sort it out.
Thanks for your input, It's been -25 C for a high these days and since I have no heated work space I'll be putting it off for a while until things warm up a little.
 

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In that case it’s likely best to tear it down for a rebuild. Order in a selection of jets for it beforehand so that you can adjust in the bench. I’d also go to the UK based rover forums as well as the Weber Facebook group to see if anyone has a good jetting baseline for that motor. I suspect that with the right jets, emulsion tubes, etc you’ll sort it out.
If he bought a brand new carb for this engine, why would it need different jets? That make no sense.

Read the manual. Take off the carb. Pull it apart and clean it. Check adjustments. Then it will be fine. It is a one hour project.
 

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Red90: No manufacturer sells carbs that are pre-jetted for specific applications. Jetting requirements will change based on the specific motor, fuel, geographic needs, etc. Carbs are sold with a generic baseline set of jets that should work as a starting point if the carb is appropriately sized for the engine. Setting up a carb correctly takes research and some experimentation (and more that an hour).
Tommy: it’ll be fine, don’t throw in the towel yet on the carb, this is a good leaning opportunity and you’ll figure it out.
 

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If he bought a brand new carb for this engine, why would it need different jets? That make no sense.

Read the manual. Take off the carb. Pull it apart and clean it. Check adjustments. Then it will be fine. It is a one hour project.
How many different applications does the 32/34 carb fit? Naive to think its jetted correctly out of the box for every single application.
 

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Red90: No manufacturer sells carbs that are pre-jetted for specific applications. Jetting requirements will change based on the specific motor, fuel, geographic needs, etc. Carbs are sold with a generic baseline set of jets that should work as a starting point if the carb is appropriately sized for the engine. Setting up a carb correctly takes research and some experimentation (and more that an hour).
Tommy: it’ll be fine, don’t throw in the towel yet on the carb, this is a good leaning opportunity and you’ll figure it out.
What? He did not buy a random aftermarket carb. He bought a carb for this engine. You know. The Land River part number for the 2.5 liter petrol.
 

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How many different applications does the 32/34 carb fit? Naive to think its jetted correctly out of the box for every single application.
He did not buy a generic carb. He bought the carb for this engine. With Land Rover part number.
 

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Has anyone ever converted these engines to fuel injection ?
Go back to page 1 and read post 8 on this thread.
Focus on the last paragraph as your question was answered 5 days ago.
 

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Let’s summarize.

The OP bought a brand new crate engine.

He bought a brand new carb with factory Land Rover setup for this engine.

He installed and then parked it for 15 years.

The carb is plugged up because he did not store it properly. It needs to be cleaned out.

It does not need jetting changes. It is a factory stock engine with factory stock carb.

Read the factory workshop manual on overhauling the carb. Follow each step carefully. Reinstall carb and be happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Let’s summarize.

The OP bought a brand new crate engine.

He bought a brand new carb with factory Land Rover setup for this engine.

He installed and then parked it for 15 years.

The carb is plugged up because he did not store it properly. It needs to be cleaned out.

It does not need jetting changes. It is a factory stock engine with factory stock carb.

Read the factory workshop manual on overhauling the carb. Follow each step carefully. Reinstall carb and be happy.
Just to clarify, I stored it with a friend and the mechanic who completed the short block install. He kept the gas fresh and drove the vehicle on his property often and used the winch occasionally to pull some stumps. He has been in the Land Rover business for 45 years building custom truck applications for people all over the world. he is a consultant for many fleets of Land Rovers in various countries. I suspect he has over 40 different LR trucks of all vintages including a Camel truck valued at $750,000.00 . Unfortunately his shop is over 350 miles away and I'm not confident of driving that far into an area that has 17 plus lanes of highway in a left hand drive truck. Especially when I'm 20-30 kph slower than all other traffic . Having never taken a carburetor apart before I'm afraid of messing something up and stranding myself with no mechanic in this area to bail me out in the event of an OOPS moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Go back to page 1 and read post 8 on this thread.
Focus on the last paragraph as you question was answered 5 days ago.
I was hoping to find someone who had done this efi swap to get a review as it were on how it performed. The other point of concern is the sniper 1100 efi says it is for inline 6 cylinders and my is a 4 cylinder. Will it be too much fuel for a 4 cylinder or can it be metered down for that application.
 

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Haynes lists the following jetting specs for early and late 90s and 110s: Defender Weber carb | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum
Another set of specs I dug up listed these as a good benchmark, again for the same engine:
155 Primary main jet
150 Primary air correction jet
70 Primary idle jet
F6 Primary emulsion tube

165 Secondary main jet
145 Secondary air correction jet
70 Secondary idle jet
F6 Secondary emulsion tube

OP, it seems like these should be a good starting point and yes this will require dismantling and cleaning of the carb which, to Red's point, also needs to be done. These people: Weber 32/36 & 38 Jet Kits - LC Engineering do jetting kits, one of them might work.

If you don't feel confident doing it yourself, I used Top End Performance (www.racetep.com) on an esoteric weber for a built BMW M10 engine. They did a fine job rebuilding it and turned it around quickly, I'm sure they could help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Haynes lists the following jetting specs for early and late 90s and 110s: Defender Weber carb | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum
Another set of specs I dug up listed these as a good benchmark, again for the same engine:
155 Primary main jet
150 Primary air correction jet
70 Primary idle jet
F6 Primary emulsion tube

165 Secondary main jet
145 Secondary air correction jet
70 Secondary idle jet
F6 Secondary emulsion tube

OP, it seems like these should be a good starting point and yes this will require dismantling and cleaning of the carb which, to Red's point, also needs to be done. These people: Weber 32/36 & 38 Jet Kits - LC Engineering do jetting kits, one of them might work.

If you don't feel confident doing it yourself, I used Top End Performance (www.racetep.com) on an esoteric weber for a built BMW M10 engine. They did a fine job rebuilding it and turned it around quickly, I'm sure they could help you out.
LA is bit too far to drive for me. I'm at the other end of North America. LOL As for the numbers and science behind these carbs, it all Greek to me. I was a Millwright when I was younger so the the wrenching is not a problem, I just wouldn't know what was doing as far as the choice of jets or if the performance was hurting the engine. ie: over fueling or too lean etc.
 
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