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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not trying to start yet another gauge thread; however, since VDO has discontinued the Vision line and replacing it with the SingleViu and there basically is nothing on the forum about the SingleViu... I'm starting another thread. Hopefully this saves the next guy the hours of scouring past threads looking for info that isn't there.
OK, so after placing my order 4mo ago, my gauges are finally here!
I like the new 8 pin molex connection system and that the gauges communicate with each other off of the main 100mm Speedo.
The wiring seems rather straight forward in replacing the smaller 52mm LR gauges. I have run into an issue when trying to sort out the wiring for the speedo when it comes to replacing the mechanical cable from the LT230 with an electric connection.
I have the VDO Hall Effect sender YBE100530 and the necessary 3 wire connector. My question is... Where do I connect the 3 wires from the hall effect to the 8 pin connector on the Speedo?

The center wire on the hall effect side is ground, so that one I know, it's the other 2 that have me perplexed. I'm assuming one of the remaining hall effect wires connects to pin 5 on the gauge (sensor input).
The only hall effect diagram I can find is 15 years old and for gauges they no longer make and the corresponding pins don't transfer over to the new SingleViu wiring.
I reached out to Jared, who is VDO's US tech support but he is pretty lame about returning emails and phone calls.

This is what I'm dealing with (ignore the wire color on the Hall Effect connector)...
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Only VDO Hall Effect diagram I could find
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SingleViu connector wiring diagram
My best guess is...
"pin 1" on my hall effect connects to "pin 5" on the speedo
"pin 2" on my hall effect connects to "pin 2" on the speedo
"pin 3" on my hall effect connects to "pin 3" on the speedo

Has anyone wired one of these up?
This is going into a 300Tdi (no EFI)

464967
 

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Look inside at the pins. They are labelled. Positive, ground and sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Look inside at the pins. They are labelled. Positive, ground and sensor.
I see it, thank you! Question... the "+" on the hall effect should connect to the "pin 4" switched/ignition?
 

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Yes. That will work.
 
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Do you have a list of the SingleViu item numbers that coincide with the discontinued Vision series? I'm wanting to upgrade all the gauges in my 1994 300 TDI. Thanks in advance for any insight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Do you have a list of the SingleViu item numbers that coincide with the discontinued Vision series? I'm wanting to upgrade all the gauges in my 1994 300 TDI. Thanks in advance for any insight.
For my 300Tdi I ordered:
A2C3832870001 -Speedometer 100mm 90mph
A2C3833130001 -Fuel level 52mm
A2C3833340001 -Water temp 52mm
323-095B -Temp sender 250F
A2C3833190001 -Oil pressure 52mm
360-009B -Pressure sender

YBE100530 -Hall Effect sender
STC4637 -Harness connector
SS106351 -Bolt for hall effect sender to LT230
WA106042 -6mm washer
571665 -O-ring



If you want to save a lot by making your own Molex connectors
8 pin connector
Pins

Haven't installed anything yet but that should happen by week's end. I'm assuming it'll all work perfectly and without issue the first time everything is wired up BUT... just in case I will post with anything odd or suspect that I encounter.

Additionally, I will post photos of the install.
 

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Do you have a list of the SingleViu item numbers that coincide with the discontinued Vision series? I'm wanting to upgrade all the gauges in my 1994 300 TDI. Thanks in advance for any insight.
Didn’t know they discontinued Vision! It’s such a great fit/look. Rather disappointed but nothing lasts forever…. Just prefer the red needle…. Fortunately I have all my gauges but if one went out my OCD would probably have me change them all…maybe…
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Didn’t know they discontinued Vision! It’s such a great fit/look. Rather disappointed but nothing lasts forever…. Just prefer the red needle…. Fortunately I have all my gauges but if one went out my OCD would probably have me change them all…maybe…
The needle does illuminate red when on. The lighting on these gauges is a way more sophisticated LED (and changeable) than the incandescent Vision series.... just sayin'

I agree the Vision series had a very factory look but I think these also have a very simple, clean and old school factory European look too. I will definitely post pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got everything wired and installed this week, took way longer than expected due to the mess of wires the military left for me. Seems like wires had multiple splices and a few things weren't wires correctly, so me and my multimeter had a blast hanging out all week.
some pics of the install...
Made my own harness, was trying to keep things tidy and placate to my OCD. After a test fit I ended up extending the feed to the speedo as it was running into the dash support and had to be fed around the back of it. I wanted it long enough so that I could pull out the gauge panel far enough to reach behind it and undo the speedo connector.

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All wired up and new gauges installed
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So the issues I've run into are:
First off, LR part SS106351 (Bolt for hall effect sender to LT230) is crap, unless you have a specialty long 5mm hex socket, this thing is near impossible to get on. I ended up digging the old stud from the mechanical speedo cable out of the bin and reinstalling in 10sec vs the 15min struggling to get SS106351 half threaded and tightened all the way down (it's just way too long of a bolt for this location). I did remove the seat box cover over the LT230 to better access it while struggling to try and get the replacement bolt in.

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Everything works but isn't perfect, yet. As you can see in the night time photo, the speedo is green (programmed by me using the push button). My understanding was that as long as the CAN wires were all connected to one another that by using the speedo, it would program all the gauges alike. That obviously isn't the case but I was told it can be done so I have to figure out if I need to wire up a 12 pin connector to do it. Reading through the online manual it seems that a 12 pin is needed to "configure" the gauges.
The water temp gauge hits 210f before the thermostat opens up. Not sure if there is an issue with the sensor/gauge or if the thermostat needs to be replaced. As soon as it hit 210, it was pegged there and didn't go any higher. I assume the radiator isn't an issue nor trapped air but could be wrong. If someone disagrees please chime in.
Lastly and sort of a big deal. I have no idea how to program/calibrate the speedometer to the correct hall effect pulse. I was told that the speedo is able to be programmed using a 1mi "start/stop" but haven't seen anywhere in the manual about how to do it... I have a call and email in to VDO tech support but happy for someone to chime in with instruction if they know how to get this sorted.
I know all this can be programmed via the VDO software; however, I don't have a PC and windows 7, 8 or 10 are required. I looked on ebay and have seen some old laptops running 10 for less than $50... I'm tempted or at least considering it.

The positives are:
-I like the look of the gauges, clean & simple.
-They are bright (especially after not having working lights on any of my gauges excluding the speedo) and can be adjusted down. They are currently set to the default 80% brightness. I'm thinking 50% will probably do the trick.
-The lighting is very clean, super even and color programable too. I wanted to try green as that's the stock LR gauge lighting color. The default white looked good too.
 

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For speedo programming see page 29. https://www.vdo.com/media/746713/en_user-manual-singleviu_22-201801.pdf

You need to connect power to pin 12 of the 12 pin connector in order to get into the pulse programming. Looks like you need to set pulse manually. Try 4170 to start. Drive and check distance via a GPS against odometer and calculate error and then adjust pulse value the amount of the error.
 

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Whoever you spoke with is correct, you can certainly sync the gauges to all illuminate the same color by changing just the speedo's settings
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You need to connect power to pin 12 of the 12 pin connector in order to get into the pulse programming. Looks like you need to set pulse manually
I'll try this by crimping a spare female pin and connecting it to #12, fingers crossed this does the trick.

you can certainly sync the gauges to all illuminate the same color by changing just the speedo's settings
Thank you for confirming, bigger question now is why aren't mine... did I wire the CAN pins incorrectly (high to high & low to low), is it just because I haven't correctly configured the gauges yet?
Since it seems you have these in your truck, I have a question... I noticed when I turn the ignition to the Acc position, I hear a quiet whining noise from behind the gauges that lasts for about 5 sec. I'm not sure if this is a normal "booting up" every time thing or again just because I have yet to properly configure them?
 

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Also keep in mind that if you want the gauge to be waterproof you need to have a 12 pin connector installed with unused pins with plugs installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I wired in the 12 pin to constant, as instructed by manual, this allowed me into the configuration screens. I was able to access the speedo configuration; however, it wouldn't allow me to manually input a pulse number it would only enter into an "autodetect" mode. Wasn't sure how to operate from here so I tried the "drive 1mi" and pressed the button again, That did change the pulse number but it still wasn't the correct pulse. I tried driving a lesser distance and that got me closer but still not correct. Gave it another go and it stopped itself, it's closer but still about 10% to high. It's not allowing me to fine tune the pulse.
I'm also still not able to change the color of the other gauges through the speedo.
I'm probably going to have to harass the US VDO tech guy until he either picks up his phone or replies to my email.
Last resort is to beg, borrow or buy an old beater PC and use the VDO software to configure these things.

Am I wrong in assuming that all the CAN high (pin 7 on the 8 pin connector) get wired together and that all the CAN low (pin 8 on the 8 pin connector) get wired together?
and that is is how the Speedo communicates to the 52mm gauges for things like brightness and color change?
 

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Have you tried a long press at auto detect to get to other modes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Have you tried a long press at auto detect to get to other modes?
I have and it doesn't give me any other options.
Essentially what happens is, I short press through the menu options until I get to "Pulse". Once there, the number of pulses it's currently set at are displayed. I Long press on pulse to select that option, and it starts flashing "autodetect".

I tried short press, long press... any sort of press and it's either "autodetect" or it brings me to the next option in the main menu. Needless to say, very frustrating. I'm basically driving different distances and manually stopping the autodetect to get it to set itself at different pulse settings. Last 3/4mi left me at 5108 pulses and seems to be about 20% under based on GPS speedometer app on my phone.
 

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Sounds like it wants you to drive a km. Makes no sense but the math sounds right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Sounds like it wants you to drive a km. Makes no sense but the math sounds right.
You're correct!
I had a conversation with one of the VDO techs today and apparently the early batches went out with a programming issue requiring 1km vs 1mi.

So for those future SingleViu speedo buyers... If the 1mi programing doesn't work, try driving 1km (.62mi).
Unless you hook the gauge up to a PC via the VDO software, you can not manually enter the pulse. The exception is If you're not in the US or just really into kilometers, the pulse can be manually programmed if the "units" are set to metric vs US (or so I was told by VDO tech). Programing via the push button can only be done in "auto detect" mode. Speed and stopping does not have an adverse effect on pulse counting but I found if you're stopped at a red light too long the gauge will exit program mode and you'll have to start over.

Regarding my ability to program the lights, it's still in the works but I was told to hook up the 12 pin connector and connect/wire pins 1 & 2 (CAN high & low), pin 3/4 are important for CAN programing and have a 120ohm resister (the two pins are wired into each other with the resistor) and pin 12. I'm inclined to just buy their 12 pin wired connector for $20 as opposed to trying to save $10 and cobble one together myself (hoping it works). I was told utilizing the 12 pin connector and those mentioned pins would get the gauges to communicate correctly. Once set the 12 pin connector could be unplugged and the settings would be stored.

programming notes from tech support not included in the main manual.
 

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