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Discussion Starter #21
That pump is Sooooo awful. replace the front cover with an early ‘97 disco (IIRC) that had both distributor and crank driven oil pump And convert to SERP belt. Yeah, you have to change ancillaries too, so what. 100% Worth it imho to have better oil pressure. I hate distributor oil pumps— I went through all this before Too.
You’re absolutely right, if replacing the relief valve doesn’t give me consistent, good pressure, then that’s what I’m planning to do. I already have a fresh cover sitting around somewhere, just wanted to give the reasonable and easier solution a go before the bigger job.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Correct direction clock/counter clockwise?
Same as the distributor spins, which iirc is clockwise, but you can determine from the plugs going in and the firing order I think?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I took a foot of copper pipe and flattened one end into an oval shape to fit around the oil pump shaft. The other end goes in the drill. Works a treat.
im giving Wallace 50% of the profits for this beauty
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There is so much disinformation surrounding this topic. Very irresponsible of LR & anyone elce recomemding using vaseline to prime the pump. Heheheheh at least recomend the lavendor smell!
This is how i do it & it works perfectly every time. This method fills the oil filter, oil pump, all oil ways, lines, oil cooler & the entire top end with oil ready to drive!
Remove the oil pressure switch & scew in appropiate adapter connected to a rubber hose & pump the oil in using a cheap HF drill pump, or any other type of pump. Its quick, minimal mess, minimal cost & considerably more efficiamt than any other means ive tried.
 

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Priming with Vaseline isn't disinformation, just another way of doing it. Perfectly ok way of doing it for maybe 70? Years .

You way works too
 

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You do realise that manufacturers have never primed brand new factory engines with simillar or any other type of oil pump with vaseline or any other type of grease.

This method primes the entire engine, every moving part, every journal, evey bearing....everything the 1st time, everytime even if the baby diaper lube primes the pump the 1st time & most times it dosent unessasary engine damage is done untill the oil starts circulating & youll end up with vaseline in your engine instead of the correct oil.
 

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I DO realize that yes. Still works, chill out

This isn't a fresh build it's repriming. Even if it was a fresh build there would be assembly lube in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I've done the vaseline method and still needed to prime on a drill. And opening up the entire pump, packing with messy vaseline, and re-assembling the pump (and gasket) with gravity working against you for it all to drip/fall on your face is just so miserable. So while it's ALSO miserable to get that damn distributor bracket back on, this method seems better.

For what it's worth, replacing the pressure relief valve DID de-prime the pump, running on the drill with no vaseline worked like a charm.

NOW I need to figure out why replacing the pressure relief valve didn't really solve my inconsistent oil pressure problem. Ugh. Looks like converting from V-belt to Serp belt is in the cards.
 

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Inconsistent oil pressure is a classic sign of a bad relieve valve so you either have a blockage somewhere or a bad relief valve.

My guess is you bought a after market chineese valve with a incorrect spring tension or just a bad part. Get the correct part or you cant & your sure you dont have a blockage I would shim the valve.

You want to start with a 1mm thick washer & work your way up, stiffening the spring as you increase the washer thickness thereby increasing oil preassure.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Inconsistent oil pressure is a classic sign of a bad relieve valve so you either have a blockage somewhere or a bad relief valve.

My guess is you bought a after market chineese valve with a incorrect spring tension or just a bad part. Get the correct part or you cant & your sure you dont have a blockage I would shim the valve.

You want to start with a 1mm thick washer & work your way up, stiffening the spring as you increase the washer thickness thereby increasing oil preassure.
that’s what I thought when replacing it too! I got this kit from Rimmer Bros.
The shimming of the spring makes a lot of sense.

looking at the Rimmsr Bros one, would you justget a nicer one AND shim it? Or do a nicer one, test drive, then try shims if needed. Replacing the valve is 5 min work, it’s the removal and reinstall of the damn distributor bracket that sucks the life out of me.
 

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I take the drive gear off a distributor drop it in the hole and spin it with an electric drill.
Works like a champ.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I take the drive gear off a distributor drop it in the hole and spin it with an electric drill.
Works like a champ.
See above, i made a great little tool that I'm happy with, it's more about how fucking annoying it is to get that distributor clamp on and off since I added power steering. Just a tiny little area. It's not HARD, just unpleasant!
 

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that’s what I thought when replacing it too! I got this kit from Rimmer Bros.
The shimming of the spring makes a lot of sense.

looking at the Rimmsr Bros one, would you justget a nicer one AND shim it? Or do a nicer one, test drive, then try shims if needed. Replacing the valve is 5 min work, it’s the removal and reinstall of the damn distributor bracket that sucks the life out of me.
looks like yoiur having issues primming the engine.

no need to mess with the distrobuter. Take off the oil preasure switch & match up the threads with a brass fitting at lowes or similar place. attach a rubber hose to it, rig some type of pump mechanism, scew it into where the oil presure switch was & pump oil into your engine. much more effitiant, way faster, cleaner and you dont get vaseline in your engine. everthing is gaurenteed primed in less than 10 minutes.

i would just shim the pressure relief valve if your still having issues after doing the above. a stiffer spring is harder to open leading to higher oil presure. i would do it 1 shim at a time & at operating temp at idle you should be able to tell if the preaasure is suffitiant. No need to drive. one advantage of this is that you can adjust your oil preassure with more or less shims untill your happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
looks like yoiur having issues primming the engine.

no need to mess with the distrobuter. Take off the oil preasure switch & match up the threads with a brass fitting at lowes or similar place. attach a rubber hose to it, rig some type of pump mechanism, scew it into where the oil presure switch was & pump oil into your engine. much more effitiant, way faster, cleaner and you dont get vaseline in your engine. everthing is gaurenteed primed in less than 10 minutes.

i would just shim the pressure relief valve if your still having issues after doing the above. a stiffer spring is harder to open leading to higher oil presure. i would do it 1 shim at a time & at operating temp at idle you should be able to tell if the preaasure is suffitiant. No need to drive. one advantage of this is that you can adjust your oil preassure with more or less shims untill your happy.
Eh, priming the pump ain't so bad, it primes in <10 seconds on the drill. I just hate the damn distro clamp design :)

So I had really bad oil pressure for awhile. I got a pressure boosting plate from TA Performance that helped a lot. Now normal idle pressure is around 20 PSI (still a little low, i know). Before replacing this valve, it would climb up to just about 30PSI with revs - SOME of the time. But other times it would want to idle at like 11-14PSI, and not rev much above 20.

After replacing the spring and piston thing this weekend, first drive seemed PERFECT. It was idling a little above 20 and went up to damn near 40 with high RPMs. But on subsequent drives, it was behaving the same again. Idling down near 14, and revving to 25-28ish.

I'll try the shims next. I'm thinking i'm so low that going straight to 2MM can't hurt.

Would replacing the pump gears potentially help? I mean at this point, I've replaced the mating surface and the relief valve. The only other component that can really affect this is the gears? Maybe I also need to open up the damn pump again and adjust the shims on the TA performance booster plate.
 
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