thicker replacement glass ?
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With hinge brackets, the gap between bonnet and bulkhead, the lip on roof above windscreen, and that fact that it is an uninsulated aluminum brick I think that noise may be a feature you either learn to live with and mitigate with sound dampening materials or buy a Lexus.
Have you dynamatted the floors, seatbox, bulkhead including pulling dash, inside doors, etc? Dynaliner on inside of bonnet and on roof? Added Wright Offroad matting or carpet? All are proven methods to lower sound/resonance.
Have you dynamatted the floors, seatbox, bulkhead including pulling dash, inside doors, etc? Dynaliner on inside of bonnet and on roof? Added Wright Offroad matting or carpet? All are proven methods to lower sound/resonance.
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I didn’t even know there was a big sound difference in glass. Suppose it makes sense— just never knew that existed. My last windscreen was cut at a shop in front of me, which I thought was interesting as I could choose tint and thickness— I choose stock-ish as I didn’t want to get into seal issues and I like rather clear for off reading at night. Sound I never even thought of! But I just read (due to your post) and saw that thickness and stiffness of class have some interesting sound properties. I still wouldn’t consider it mattering too much on my 90...particularly since I can see daylight through too many seals on my truck and it is just going to break again in a year...
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I replaced my front windscreen to a modern one (glass is kind of green) compared to the transparent normal one.
It definitely makes it look more modern.
Maybe going for modern defender glasses would make some difference, depending on what year yours is !
You probably can make yours in a special shop with the glass and tint you choose.
Between, you probably need to work on the soundproofing of every area and plug every single hole.
I put multiple layers of sounproofing around the gear sticks (under the cover) and on top of the transmission and it makes a big difference...
Modern cars definitely have a lot of soundproofing due to their glasses, as I can barely hear the noise in the outside in my Ford Kuga when the windows are up !
It definitely makes it look more modern.
Maybe going for modern defender glasses would make some difference, depending on what year yours is !
You probably can make yours in a special shop with the glass and tint you choose.
Between, you probably need to work on the soundproofing of every area and plug every single hole.
I put multiple layers of sounproofing around the gear sticks (under the cover) and on top of the transmission and it makes a big difference...
Modern cars definitely have a lot of soundproofing due to their glasses, as I can barely hear the noise in the outside in my Ford Kuga when the windows are up !
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If you are going ground up, the bulkhead, tunnel, seatbox and floor panels can be thermal coated and insulated/sound dampened.
Other than that, there are a ton of sharp edges, drip rails, and protrusions that would need to be overcome. Again, any old school hotrod shop could smooth these away, but that would be pricey and IMO kind of be an abomination on a Defender. :rolleyes. Opinion only.
Take a close look at a JK Wrangler or newer G-wagen. The windscreen in particular on Wranglers does not present anywhere near the sharp edges and impediment to good aerodynamics.
I have a 2013 Puma that has been DynaMatt’ed on the tub floors, sides, and footwells. Has factory carpet and insulation pads. Full headliner. Still a noisy beast. Not 1990’s 300Tdi noisy, but noisy.
Also have a 1994 300Tdi, dynamatted on roof, tub floor and sides, footwells, tunnel, rear bulkhead behind seats. Cab only headliner. Factory matting. Can have conversations at 60MPH, but it requires speaking louder than normal.
My experiences are in no way scientific, but based on real world hit or miss attempts to save my hearing!
Other than that, there are a ton of sharp edges, drip rails, and protrusions that would need to be overcome. Again, any old school hotrod shop could smooth these away, but that would be pricey and IMO kind of be an abomination on a Defender. :rolleyes. Opinion only.
Take a close look at a JK Wrangler or newer G-wagen. The windscreen in particular on Wranglers does not present anywhere near the sharp edges and impediment to good aerodynamics.
I have a 2013 Puma that has been DynaMatt’ed on the tub floors, sides, and footwells. Has factory carpet and insulation pads. Full headliner. Still a noisy beast. Not 1990’s 300Tdi noisy, but noisy.
Also have a 1994 300Tdi, dynamatted on roof, tub floor and sides, footwells, tunnel, rear bulkhead behind seats. Cab only headliner. Factory matting. Can have conversations at 60MPH, but it requires speaking louder than normal.
My experiences are in no way scientific, but based on real world hit or miss attempts to save my hearing!
I was not interested in changing the outside look of the truck. It is iconic but understand the limitations with noise given its design. I am not going to go overboard and redesign the glass and seals to get a marginal reduction in drivetrain and wind noise. It is avaaible on the Macan as an option even thought the car is very well insulated already. I do understand from other owners that it makes a substantial difference so was just wondering if someone had already attempted to do something similar with the Defender glazing.
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Cool topic. My 2015 (WK2) Grand Cherokee diesel has acoustic glass, and it is surprisingly quiet in the cabin. It's a combination of many things, but from others that have rode in both w/ and w/o glass, it's worth having. That said, it's not just thicker, there is obviously some science behind it. Im sure someone has acoustic glass stock somewhere and could cut to size.
Here's a cool whitepaper about the glass and earlier CRD jeeps.
Here's a cool whitepaper about the glass and earlier CRD jeeps.
Great white paper . I wasn't sure thicker was the answer but the article clearly makes sense. I don't know the process of cutting custom glass but the defender looks pretty straight forward if this is reasonably economically possible.
Thanks !!
I hate to burst your bubble, but my front windows are 3/16" (4.7625mm) and I still wear earplugs when I drive my truck.
Feel free to spend your money however you like, but have you done all the other sound deadening work?
Complete exmoor molded mat setup, headliner, rear rubber mat and carpeting, etc?
Feel free to spend your money however you like, but have you done all the other sound deadening work?
Complete exmoor molded mat setup, headliner, rear rubber mat and carpeting, etc?
Thanks. We are in the design phase at the moment. Will do the latest interior stuff available.
These guys have some very high tech materials currently being use in the Singer 911 cars.
N2 Aero - Products and Services
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Very Cool, I had no idea this existed in the automotive world.
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A defender is nothing but a road legal farm tractor, personally I could never live with all the little idiosyncratic issues specially at the astronomical cost of acquisition.
no mater what you do with it, the truck will be noisy, drafty, slow, leaky too cols in winter, too hot in summer and to me uncomfortable driving position. ( have seen two guys dropping nearly 100K in noise suppression upgrades with unsatisfied marginal results).
I would say the wheel has been round for ages, no use in redesigning it.
best of luck reaching your goal.
no mater what you do with it, the truck will be noisy, drafty, slow, leaky too cols in winter, too hot in summer and to me uncomfortable driving position. ( have seen two guys dropping nearly 100K in noise suppression upgrades with unsatisfied marginal results).
I would say the wheel has been round for ages, no use in redesigning it.
best of luck reaching your goal.
Luck is for rabbits....
5 mm original (older style) glass all around and 6mm glass windshield (custom-cut from a flat truck glass to have all the DOT markings, etc., cheaper and better than any replacement glass) and it still sounds like I`m driving a T72 tank, especially with the turbo (which is exactly how I like it, keeps the kids quiet too 
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I have been chasing water leaks around my alpine lights in my 1990 110 SW. After using Captain Tolleys and clear silicone sealant I have come to the conclusion that I need to change the seals. Reading trough Def Source I now know that there are two different thicknesses in glass and in turn two corresponding seals. How do I know what thickness glass I have without removing it (so that I can order the correct seals)? Thanks all.
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