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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, have been in the process of installing a new clutch, on my way to getting my transmission back in place. I have come across some interesting things, hoping someone may be able to shed some light. Also, curious which rear main seal to use, pictures to follow.

Once I removed the flywheel I noticed the 4 cap head bolts running through to the ladder frame were completely loose and pulled right out without having to unscrew (unbolt?) them. At first, they seemed to be broken, but upon removing the flywheel housing it looks as though they have been decapitated. I've purchased new bolts. Anyone have a thought on how to best repair the cuts?
fullsizeoutput_301.jpeg


This is looking at the bottom of the flywheel housing where the four bolt holes are.
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This one looks like it has broken off due to the reduction in strength caused by the cut.
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The gasket between the flywheel housing and the block seems to have been ripped at the bottom. Is there a reason for this?
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Finally, which rear main seal should I use? Seems this flywheel housing will work with the 300tdi seal, but the seal that came with the gasket kit is the orange rubber deal with the spring. It had a Dowty. Should I go with a Turner Eng one? Are you pro rtv or con rtv when using gaskets? Do you use gaskets? Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. This is inside my flywheel housing...
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This is one of the new ones I have, which has an integrated Teflon seal. It came with a rubber'y stiff gasket that is the same size of the metal frame you see below.
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And here is the orange rubber deal that came with the gasket kit...
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As always, thank you for your time and thoughts.
 

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Very strange, even for a 200TDI.
The bolts were cut, then replaced with bolts that were too long that were shortened by cutting the bottom off.
The rear main seal is completely off center indicating that the flywheel housing was way off center.
Inspect the pilot bushing to see if it too was off center (don't see how it couldn't be).
You need to replace all the bolts and grind those cut areas in the flywheel housing even so the bolts have a proper flat surface to seat on.
I would also look for furtherance of this hack job to be sure other things are not botched up to the same levels.
If it were mine, I would install a Chevy 250, but if you are keeping the TDI, take special care to make sure you have a proper fit with the rear main seal and again be sure the flywheel housing is true and centered.
Never seen anything like this before.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
FYI- It's a 93 200tdi Defender engine installed in a 62 Series iiA
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The rear main seal is completely off center indicating that the flywheel housing was way off center.
Inspect the pilot bushing to see if it too was off center (don't see how it couldn't be).
Hey rdavisinva, thanks for the reply. How can you tell the rear main seal is off-center from these pictures? It wasn't leaking oil. Pilot bushings seems to be good to go, though I'll probably put in a new one since I'm this far in.
 

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Do you have the wrong flywheel housing? The bolts should go through it into the ladder frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, it's the correct flywheel housing. To be clear, these bolts have been cut and the threaded ends were still in the ladder frame. I'm guessing this was done to remove the ladder frame and get to the pistons or oil pump, without having to remove the bell housing backing out the transmission. Just a guess.

The new bolts I purchased are 80mm and will reach straight through.
 

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Oh never-mind about the seal being off center, it was an illusion because the gasket was out of place, just laid over the housing.
 
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Not sure why you'd have a 300tdi rear main seal, definitely not something you'd use with a 200. Looks like a bunch of botched surgery on that
 

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Discussion Starter #9
May have purchased the wrong seal, online retailer description said it would fit either a 300tdi or 200tdi. I've read in some other forums that this is correct.

Is the orange rubber seal good to go with the 200tdi? Anyone had problems with these?
 

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I've never seen someone use the 300 seal on a 200, but perhaps it is possible. The orange rubber seal is correct for a 200, assuming it's the ERR2532
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've never seen someone use the 300 seal on a 200, but perhaps it is possible. The orange rubber seal is correct for a 200, assuming it's the ERR2532
Yep, it's the ERR2532. Thanks for the insight, Z.G
 

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a few things here

  • you are correct some jerk cut the bolts and housing to remove the ladder frame without removing the engine
  • you cant use the 300tdi seal , you have a 200tdi clutch housing and need to use the 200 seal
  • the 200 rubber seal you have is correct but its crap , replace it with a early DOWTY/cortico seal
  • you should also replace the block to clutch housing gasket , the big black paper with the silicone lines on it
    • get the same one with the silicone its brick red and black with the lines, do not get the grey one
  • If the engine is out you should also be doing the Tseals ..they leak just as often as the rear main and can only be done with the engine out.
/opinion
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oh never-mind about the seal being off center, it was an illusion because the gasket was out of place, just laid over the housing.
I see what you're talking about now! Ha! That's actually my Macbook it's sitting on, and the Apple logo below it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
a few things here

  • you are correct some jerk cut the bolts and housing to remove the ladder frame without removing the engine
  • you cant use the 300tdi seal , you have a 200tdi clutch housing and need to use the 200 seal
  • the 200 rubber seal you have is correct but its crap , replace it with a early DOWTY/cortico seal
  • you should also replace the block to clutch housing gasket , the big black paper with the silicone lines on it
    • get the same one with the silicone its brick red and black with the lines, do not get the grey one
  • If the engine is out you should also be doing the Tseals ..they leak just as often as the rear main and can only be done with the engine out.
/opinion
Thanks for the info, Naplm00. I'll go ahead and get a Dowty type seal. Good info on the housing/block gasket. I have the grey one in my hand at the moment and was getting ready to install it. The one that came off was the black one with silicone red lines. Any idea why the bottom might have been ripped off? not needed in that area?
 

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whoever cut the bolt prob did it. it serve no purpose other than alignment. only buy the corteco dowty seal if you can find one , the aftermarket ones are garbage. crank end should be clean and dry. it comes with a tool to guide it over the crank end when installing the clutch housing. i also use a small amount of red locktite around the edge of the seal to ensure a leak free install but, i go overkill.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
whoever cut the bolt prob did it. it serve no purpose other than alignment. only buy the corteco dowty seal if you can find one , the aftermarket ones are garbage. crank end should be clean and dry. it comes with a tool to guide it over the crank end when installing the clutch housing. i also use a small amount of red locktite around the edge of the seal to ensure a leak free install but, i go overkill.
Makes sense. Found an OE Dowty over at rovahfarm.com along with the black seal with silicon. Great idea regarding the locktite! Thanks for the tip. I'm all about over-engineering.
 

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Yep, it's the correct flywheel housing. To be clear, these bolts have been cut and the threaded ends were still in the ladder frame. I'm guessing this was done to remove the ladder frame and get to the pistons or oil pump, without having to remove the bell housing backing out the transmission. Just a guess.

The new bolts I purchased are 80mm and will reach straight through.
Ah. I see now. I would get a new clutch housing. If you try and bolt that up it will be distorted.
 

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Turner might be the best source for the rear main seal. I just did all the seals on the bottom end on my 200tdi and purchased from them.
 
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