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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Noticed my 90 pulling to the left when braking hard. Thought it was a stuck caliper but the tie rods were super loose and unstable.

Need to replace. Anyone got a step by step. Also, can I just replace the tie rods or do I have to replace arms and crossroad tube also.

Thanks
Harold
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Lucky8 Llc. - Take the road less traveled... and don't look back, by the time you buy new ends and get the old ones out it will be worth it. Hardest part will be getting the link that connects at the steering box off, it will be reused. measure old bars and get new ones as close as possible, then throw a tape measure on to check alignment.
Great. Thanks.

Does the lucky 8 set have everything I need? There doesn't seem to be an arm for the steering dampener in the picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Went back underneath the truck last night. Looks like the back tie rods and track rod tube are fine. But the front tie rod on the passenger side and the ball joint below the dampener are super loose.


Gonna buy the front tie rod and track rod tube to replace.


Question: should I try to rebuild the ball joint below the dampener or replace it all with this unit:
DROP ARM w/BALL JOINT LHD-RANGE ROVER CLASSIC 87-91, DEFENDER, RNS080, QFW000030 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts


Thanks in advance,
Harold
 

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Many say count exposed threads on the old before you remove and screw the new ones in the same. I don't buy that school of thought but the eye to eye measurement between the knuckles is a good way to go. Measure before and match that with the replacements.
 

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Maybe you can get the ends out of a cali truck but not so much a east coast vehicle. I've tried too many times without success. It faster and reasonably cheap to upgrade these parts in one swoop.
 

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It's easy to get the tie rod ends out. You have to really soak them with heat, MAPP gas or better.

Then drench with PB blaster. Put the thing on an anvil and bang with a BFH on the side of the tube in the section where the tie rod end is, as you roll it around on the anvil. Obviously don't hit it past that point or you will flatten it. Rinse, repeat. It is a relatively thin wall tube AND it is split at one end. Banging it like that will break any rust bond between the male end female threads, Have yet to fail on getting them out since I started doing them that way. Pipe wrench is good for freeing them, once the above steps have been performed and the rust demons exorcised.

Edit, to address responses below...If you are replacing a damaged tie rod or upgrading to a stronger design, yeah, just go with all new stuff. Of course.
 
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