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Discussion Starter #1
Well, after considering buying a restored 95 classic I have decided to go ahead and just do mine. First step today was carpet and console removal. Rust was not as bad as I expected throughout except the drivers side. Will clearly require new metal. Next step is quotes on repaint and rust repair then off the get mechanical items sorted.
 

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Wow that's not horrible, I bet once you get that surface rust clean you will find its fairly sound.

Keep the old girl running; 'the devil you know' and all that
 

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Pull that spare tire out and check under there.
I swear, I can't figure it out, but mine gets water under there.

Also, you might want to pull the sub box/cd changer out and check under there.
Those bolts may be bad but the floor back there looks pretty good so far.

Your trouble spots dont appear to be terrible... start scraping that rust and see what ya got...


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Discussion Starter #4
Driver side is rusted through in spots. Actual holes. The rest is light surface rust. I can deal with surface stuff but will have a body shop do the driver side.

------ Follow up post added January 30th, 2016 08:22 PM ------

Does anyone sell footwells? I am thinking that would be better than just welding in sheet metal
 

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If it's just a few small holes, I'd just weld in some matching guage sheet metal.
No need to over do it.

If the floor is blown out, then go the panel direction.


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Discussion Starter #10
I think I will probably just do patch work. Holes are not that big and probably enough metal to make it work. I am only looking for a nice clean daily driver, not a ribbon winning show car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
By seatbelt mount do you mean where it bolts into the wheel arch under the small carpet that is glued on? I do have a little rust starting to come through inside the rear door arch over the wheel well. Not exactly sure how/where to inspect that.
 

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By seatbelt mount do you mean where it bolts into the wheel arch under the small carpet that is glued on? I do have a little rust starting to come through inside the rear door arch over the wheel well. Not exactly sure how/where to inspect that.

Yes... the mount on the wheel arch. You can get a decent assessment from inside the wheel arch so you don't have to remove the carpet.
 

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glad to see you decided to keep what you know! doesn't look bad from the pics.


I pulled the carpet/padding from mine yesterday...the rear boot pad is soaking wet. Got a leak somewhere for sure. No rust anywhere, but I'm seriously considering leaving the carpet out. That padding is just a giant sponge.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Mine was wet in both front foot wells and the trunk area. Will be a lot of fun trying to find the sources of the leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
so, starting a list of misc thing I need to make this truck look great. Please let me know if you have any of these items. I will post over on wanted as well:

- rear lift gate lift tabs
- cup holders that fit on the center console (not the push button ones in the dash)
- clean interior carpet set (will try to wash mine but they are rather tatty)
- Rear Window and windshield rubber seals/trim
- Passenger seat base trim - not broken
- front speaker covers (I know, but I have to ask)
- Front driver seat arm rest in good condition
- Spare tire carpet cover
- the little black cover that goes over the nut that holds the windshield wiper on
- decent condition foam matting / sound deadening matting that goes under the carpet up front under the footwells.
 

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- decent condition foam matting / sound deadening matting that goes under the carpet up front under the footwells.

Why not use Dynamat instead of the sponge? I picked up a few rolls from Walmart online for much less than other places.
 

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(Always good to go back to Joel's (Crown14) restoration thread.)


Yep, there really is a wealth of information in that thread.


Well worth the time to go through it.
 
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