Defender Source Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys!

Just bought the car of my dreams, a defender 130 from 1998.

The last owner put it away in a old military storage unit in 2012. It was running nice at the time.

What do I need to do before I fire it up?

Change diesel and filter? How do I drain the tank?

Oil and filter, before or after start up?

Needed to flush the cooling system?

Thank you!

Rob from Sweden
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439922241.045414.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Rocky,

I although would like some more info.

I understand that it's needed to replace the diesel and filter, how do I drain it ?

Should I change the oil before startup or after?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,001 Posts
I understand that it's needed to replace the diesel and filter, how do I drain it ?

Should I change the oil before startup or after?
No need to change fuel or filter. Fuel does not go bad. Just drive. Change the fuel filter and engine oil after you run through a full tank. I would then also change all fluids, gearboxes, axles, brakes, clutch, coolant, power steering as you have no idea the history and the timing belt.

But drive it first for a good tank to flush things out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,130 Posts
I would change the oil both before and after.
Change it before start up. Run 100 km. then change again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,129 Posts
Hi guys!

Just bought the car of my dreams, a defender 130 from 1998.

The last owner put it away in a old military storage unit in 2012. It was running nice at the time.

What do I need to do before I fire it up?

Change diesel and filter? How do I drain the tank?

Oil and filter, before or after start up?

Needed to flush the cooling system?

Thank you!

Rob from Sweden
View attachment 127350
Check the oil level. Charge the battery, put the key in, cycle the glow plugs. Start it up.

Then change filters, oil etc ... but at least you'll know it ran ... otherwise you'll start taking stuff apart and not know if that caused the non-running if it fails to start later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thank you!

I know The car, it's s My friends employer.

Timing belt, valves and clutch is replaced.

They put it away when the brakepedal was rock solid one morning. Two wheelbearings is also bad.

The motor was running like a charm when stored.

I will for sure change the diesel, feels safest. How do I drain/empty it in the easiest way?

I also think I will change the oil, right or wrong?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,001 Posts
I will for sure change the diesel, feels safest. How do I drain/empty it in the easiest way?
You just keep asking the same questions over and over. If you don't like the answers, why do you keep asking?

Remove the drain plug on the tank if you want to drain the fuel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thank you Red, sorry if I upset you with my questions.

As you can see in the thread, no answer is like the other. I thought if I share some more info, maybe it could be clarified further.

I did look for a plug at the tank but couldn't find one. Apparently, it's there. Will look further.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,001 Posts
Do you have a plastic tank? If so, there is no drain. You will have to suck it out. Like I said, it is a waste of time. Diesel does not go bad.

Things like brake fluid and coolant need to be changed after a time interval. The other fluids don't age.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
620 Posts
I'd just be super careful. Diesel does go bad and IMO, its cheap enough to not warrant the risk. Drain the entire system and replace the filters.

Also make sure the engine actually turns over. Disconnect the fuel intake and stick the pipe into a bottle of diesel injection system conditioner. With the exciter wire disconnected (the one wire that a diesel engine needs), the rack will be closed and then you can run conditioner through the injection pump and the rack to clean out all the crap is probably in there.

Change the oil in it.

Crank it. Then get the injection pump timed and adjust the valves. Then start looking for things that need to be replaced. Little crap like belts, etc.

Diesel does go bad and water DOES get into these systems and cause a ton of damage. The older engines aren't as fragile but I see no reason not to do it all up proper. Also considering it is a 300TDI, there is probably a bunch of crap in the tank as well. Would be a great opportunity to drop it and clean it all out.

Check brakes and clutch. Probably ok, but check for seized pistons and dry rot. Brake failure is a bad time.

Other than that, see what happens. Enjoy!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,291 Posts
I will for sure change the diesel, feels safest. How do I drain/empty it in the easiest way?
I know a farmer who pumps out heating oil for several heating & cooling companies.
We got to discussing aged diesel fuel.
In 2013, this guy pumped fuel oil out of a tank in the basement of a building that had been there since the early 1950s when the building furnace was changed from oil to electricity.
He pumped the fuel oil (diesel) through a sedimenter and filter and into his holding tank that he then used to fill up his tractors and several farm use diesel pickup trucks.
The tractors and pickup trucks, one a later Dodge Cummins all ran fine on the stuff.
He told me that you can't tell the difference between 60 year old diesel and diesel that came out of the pump this morning.
Then he asked an interesting question.
How long do you think the oil stayed in the ground before it got pumped to the surface?
The cracking process only separates the type of fuel before all the additives, but it's all thousands and thousands of years old anyway.
Am not sure I agree with the analogy 100%, but it sure makes 3 year old diesel fuel look like it doesn't need to be changed!

I think changing your fuel is a waste of time, but am sure my farmer friend would put the discarded fuel to good use if you were not so far away.

In my opinion it is also a waste of time to replace anything except the battery if it doesn't hold a charge.
Crank it and drive it after you fix the wheel bearings and do any needed brake work.
I just replaced a brake booster on a 110 that had a very hard petal with little stopping power that fixed the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I'd just be super careful. Diesel does go bad and IMO, its cheap enough to not warrant the risk. Drain the entire system and replace the filters.

Also make sure the engine actually turns over. Disconnect the fuel intake and stick the pipe into a bottle of diesel injection system conditioner. With the exciter wire disconnected (the one wire that a diesel engine needs), the rack will be closed and then you can run conditioner through the injection pump and the rack to clean out all the crap is probably in there.

Change the oil in it.

Crank it. Then get the injection pump timed and adjust the valves. Then start looking for things that need to be replaced. Little crap like belts, etc.

Diesel does go bad and water DOES get into these systems and cause a ton of damage. The older engines aren't as fragile but I see no reason not to do it all up proper. Also considering it is a 300TDI, there is probably a bunch of crap in the tank as well. Would be a great opportunity to drop it and clean it all out.

Check brakes and clutch. Probably ok, but check for seized pistons and dry rot. Brake failure is a bad time.

Other than that, see what happens. Enjoy!

Thank you! I Will sure follow your advice!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,232 Posts
You just keep asking the same questions over and over. If you don't like the answers, why do you keep asking? Remove the drain plug on the tank if you want to drain the fuel.
I would think because no one has answered that question.

I would drain the fuel and change the filter because of a possible presents of algae and condensation. That's just me.

The tank should have a drain on it in the basic center of the rear tank.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,291 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,129 Posts
Just put a key in and start it. And video it for good measure.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,483 Posts
Hej! As others stated, just start it. You will likely need a new battery. My opinion is that if the tank was full when the vehicle is parked, there is probably very little condensation (water contamination) in the tank. Might also be worth priming the system with the lift pump. I would guess that the fuel system could lose its prime, but that's just a guess. After putting a few hundred miles on it I would recommend changing the other fluids, but I doubt you would have any serious issues if you didn't.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top