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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. I need some advise. I have a 95 d-90 that has been neglected and garaged for the "pretty days" that is now my daily driver. Things are starting to go wrong in all sorts of ways, but I am getting a handle on it now. Here is my biggest issue. When I let the truck sit at idle it dies. Prior to this it has been hard to start when it is extremely humid out and when it does start it runs like it is missing a cylinder until it really heats up. I pulled the dist cap and hit it with a hair dryer once, and that seamed to help on that issue. Anyway this is what I am getting back on this. My mechanic has told me that he thinks it is stalling because I am putting cheap gas in. He is smelling fuel in the exhaust. He recommended better fuel and berryman's. What say you all, and thanks for the help in advance.
 

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I would start off with the simple stuff. Run a can of BG 44K through with the next tank of (quality) fuel. Check all of your spark plug leads: make sure they are intact, boots are good, no water under the boots. When you reinstall the boots, pack some dielectric grease in them. Check the lead that runs from the ignition coil to the distributor and do the same thing. Make sure all of the spade plugs are secure on the bottom of the coil.

Try these things first. If that doesn't fix it, come back and we can go over the next steps (fuel filter, fuel pump issues, throttle body cleaner, etc).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Chris. That is incredibly helpful in terms of walking through different problems solving steps. I will do so and get back to you all on this. I did recently replace my fuel pump and fuel filter so that may or may not have much to do with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK. It has been forever since this was posted and I hate usually not having posts finished out. The ECM and the Coil were replaced, as was the Dist cap and my problems went away, came back, got fixed again, and then recently came back but this time it is a bit different. I am now noticing the wiring harness bits and pieces for this are starting to cause issues. I noticed the wires are all frayed and dry rotted. I also found that the harness is not for sale anywhere that I can find. I am thinking my only real option is to simply go pull it, and solder all of it back together. Anyone have any feedback on this. Thanks.
 

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OK. It has been forever since this was posted and I hate usually not having posts finished out. The ECM and the Coil were replaced, as was the Dist cap and my problems went away, came back, got fixed again, and then recently came back but this time it is a bit different. I am now noticing the wiring harness bits and pieces for this are starting to cause issues. I noticed the wires are all frayed and dry rotted. I also found that the harness is not for sale anywhere that I can find. I am thinking my only real option is to simply go pull it, and solder all of it back together. Anyone have any feedback on this. Thanks.
PM Sent
We have the harness in stock
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Actually to be clear. I may have typed wrong. The wiring harness I am looking for is the wiring harness form the ignition control unit to the coil pack. those wires are the ones that are fried.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update on this. So we rigged up my old harness and it worked, but I wasn’t convinced something had been done to “fix” the issue. Well sure enough my truck stalled again last week. No spark. I ordered the wiring harness from Safari HP and installed it. I got spark to the cap but not to the plugs. Today I picked up a rotor and cap, installed that and it fired right up. Not sure if I have been chasing the same problem with different fixes, or different problems but it’s odd. I needed the harness though so All is great on that. Just seams goofy to be dealing with different iterations of very similar issues.
 

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Not sure if I have been chasing the same problem with different fixes, or different problems but it’s odd...Just seams goofy to be dealing with different iterations of very similar issues.
Not so odd or goofy, really. It's old enough to be out of warranty so you need the cap & rotor changed out on a regular basis, right? Actually, it's waaaay out of warranty so you eventually needed a new wiring harness, too. If anything is odd or goofy, it's that you haven't also been stuck somewhere in a no-start scenario due to worn out spark wires or stalled out somewhere due to a burned up, worn out NLA distributor...


ie, it's not you, it's us.




BTW, what cap & rotor did you go with?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh, don’t get me wrong. The wires, plugs, ICM, coil pack, dizzy cap and who knows what untold issues I have changed over the years. And I have been stuck on the side of the road for sure. I really probably should think about a wiring harness soon. I am just a bit reluctant to pull that trigger as wiring is not my forte. Actually fixing my truck is not my forte but it sure hasn’t stopped me from trying.

Honestly I am not entirely sure what cap and rotor I picked up. Was a Napa version. I actually went cheap because I thought the mechanic looking at it was out of his mind. Sure enough though he was right. I may need to order a better one for the glove box.
 

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so just a couple of thoughts,

you say the wiring is fraying - where exactly..
The Amplifier module to distributor wires? the spark plug wires. etc.

No starts and completely dying are usually the cap or rotor, sometime the coil, but i start with replacing the Rotor button first, then the cap, that fixes most of them. the rotors crack and arc to the shaft grounding out the ignition.

if it start and runs and dies on idle i would replace the stepper motor which is this https://www.carparts.com/details/Land_Rover/Defender_90/Replacement/Idle_Control_Valve/1995/Base/8_Cyl_3-dot-9L/REPB313201.html?showfitment=true

it is located on the left side of the intake manifold and takes a minute to switch out. this part is known to have issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Rlynch- I noticed the wires fraying were mostly around the connections around the ECM and the small wires to the coil pack. Those have been repaired. The plug wires etc are all mostly new. Ia also replaced the stepper recently. I think my culprit was the last time I replaced the dizzy cap I did not replace the button in the middle. I think the combination of that and some wires being weak were giving me weak spark. It is running great right now.

KeyesKennard. The check engine light was spradic but was not giving me codes.
 
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