SoonerMatt's 1988 Defender 90 build

12032 Views 108 Replies 20 Participants Last post by robertf, 4 d ago

soonermatt

Discussion Starter · Jul 28, 2021 (Edited)

Hello everyone. I'm about to take delivery of this defender here in Norman, Oklahoma. I'd been nostalgic for my old rock crawler YJ and the 1980 C10 truck I drove in high school. Land Cruisers and Rubicons were considered. Strangely, price was an issue on those. This was about the same. I've always loved these so it's a great fit. This is not a daily driver and will likely be a Home Depot or school drop off car. A mall crawler.

It should be mentioned that I have a 2007 Escalade which is extremely desirable year for 6.2L engine donors. It is pre AFM and direct injection. It has the better push rods and pistons. It's a very easy 500HP drop in drivetrain. That is eventually going in something. Why not this?

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #81 · Apr 29, 2022

2

I'm doing a better job at collecting parts than building this so far this year. Been very busy.

Did order the start of the roll cage, that fancy ARB winch bumper and a Warn 8274 w/synthetic line. I'm not really operating with a budget on this build for now. Never done anything like that in my life.

Here's what the winch, bumper and NAS front cage will look like. Never used that winch. Heard it was nice. We will find out.

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seekerbeta

· #82 · Apr 29, 2022

its going to look good. the 8274 is a fast winch, but it does take some time to learn how to use it. once you get the hang of it your golden.

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #83 · 12 mo ago

More parts keep arriving. I keep neglecting this build.

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #84 · 11 mo ago

Waiting on my buddy to arrive to help me safely put this engine in. We will see if it happens tonight lol

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #85 · 11 mo ago

2

If any one of my coworkers see this, assume all of my electrical work is just like this. Everything is labeled at both ends. Everything is soldered. Ignore every other post and the missing grommet under the dome light.

Strangely, roll cage needs to be worked in before the engine is touched up … which required doing the headliner permanently.

Tried to wire it in a way I’ll appreciate in 10 years.

Also applied the Alcantera headliner liner. Very happy with it.

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #86 · 8 mo ago

It only took me 10 weeks but I got the engine and starter in. The picture isn’t much but I want to show progress. Progress completely stalled. Only posting to get the ball rolling again. I will need this truck this winter. Time to work harder. Need to find that fancy drain plug…

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #87 · 8 mo ago

Wet sanded and rinsed off the PUMA hood. My paint work is really bad but I hope I can polish the single state paint well later. It dries faded. Probably needs clear coat but I don’t have a compressor strong enough or a paint booth to do that well. Hopefully it will all be scratched up by tree branches soon enough.

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #88 · 8 mo ago

Got a lot of it put together.

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #89 · 8 mo ago

Finally finished a year long roadblock on this project: broken bolts. I had to learn to weld nuts on them and use combinations of step bits, extractors and threaders. It was rough but they are all free! I can really get this project wrapped up now.

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #90 · 7 mo ago

Wrapping up the interior now. Decided to do leather door cards. Also bought a refurb kit. That seems great.

Finally got the lettering for the hood. I used the template it gave. I’m nudging a few of the letters around a bit.

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Davis

· #91 · 7 mo ago

Nice job. I didn’t think that winch in that bumper would fit without trimming the grill. Nice.

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #92 · 7 mo ago

2

Exmoor leather for door card. There were a few loose stitches but otherwise nice. Have a brushed aluminum door handle on the way. I recommend 2 9 volt batteries, glue (hot?) and clamps on one pair of cut outs. It’s worth it. It feels almost professional like the alcantara ceiling.

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #93 · 7 mo ago

Davis said:
Nice job. I didn’t think that winch in that bumper would fit without trimming the grill. Nice.

The grill and bumper did actually get trimmed! Also the best spacer I could find were cheap pneaumatic wrench sockets from Harbor freight. It’s on solid now!

I’m going to run 0 gauge pos/neg to junction points in the engine bay for that winch and alternator.

The engine swap seems to require better wiring.

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Davis

· #94 · 7 mo ago

Unless you are running the winch to the alternator and then the alternator to the battery, you do not need such a big alternator cable. Not even close. I don't know your alternator amperage but doubt it is much more than 100A, so I wouldn't be above a 4 gauge. For the winch, ditto. These are intermittent loads that we are talking about and most people go 2 gauge. You can go higher, and maybe the 8247 has changed, but even warn recommends 2 gauge. This is not a sensitive electrical component that wants under 3% voltage drop and you are probably only 10' out. If you are running to a pic point under the hood, then by all means runs 2 gauge to that and 0 gauge to your battery for multiple loads. I don't know your particulars, just double check what your really need. Oversizing can be difficult to work with including the lug sizes necessary. Even with welding cable.

soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #95 · 7 mo ago

Davis said:
Unless you are running the winch to the alternator and then the alternator to the battery, you do not need such a big alternator cable. Not even close. I don't know your alternator amperage but doubt it is much more than 100A, so I wouldn't be above a 4 gauge. For the winch, ditto. These are intermittent loads that we are talking about and most people go 2 gauge. You can go higher, and maybe the 8247 has changed, but even warn recommends 2 gauge. This is not a sensitive electrical component that wants under 3% voltage drop and you are probably only 10' out. If you are running to a pic point under the hood, then by all means runs 2 gauge to that and 0 gauge to your battery for multiple loads. I don't know your particulars, just double check what your really need. Oversizing can be difficult to work with including the lug sizes necessary. Even with welding cable.

Already own the my new battery terminals, fuse/relay boxes, junction points, wiring, etc.

0 gauge backbone to engine bay junction points might be overkill. Worked through my plan with an electric engineer friend. I’m really excited about doing a great job with my electrical system. I work on an engineering team at an OEM and I know my peers are going to once over my work. I’m going to have all wiring labeled, safe locations, capacity above requirements, etc.

I’m actually pretty excited to have nice wiring

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Davis

· #96 · 7 mo ago

Fair enough, to each their own and you and your buddy have a plan. I’ll Just offer one more bit of advice then I’ll stop, since I feel it’s important advice to you and others as well, and that is to avoid CCA wire (particularly for automotive use)— which I see your red wire in photo is. Since You have a buddy, he can fill you in why (there are many reasons) or please research why, it’ll hold more weight than me saying it. I only have 1 motivation here— and that is to help—definitely not to step on your plans. Sorry if I came off that way, but I’ll 100% stand by my advice.

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soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #97 · 7 mo ago (Edited)

(Comment deleted)

soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #98 · 7 mo ago (Edited)

.

soonermatt

Discussion Starter · #99 · 5 mo ago

3

Making more progress. Interior is coming together. Can watch RadarScope radar, Netflix, OTA local TV, etc from the cab.

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mikewerx

· #100 · 5 mo ago

soonermatt said:
If any one of my coworkers see this, assume all of my electrical work is just like this. Everything is labeled at both ends. Everything is soldered. Ignore every other post and the missing grommet under the dome light.

Strangely, roll cage needs to be worked in before the engine is touched up … which required doing the headliner permanently.

Tried to wire it in a way I’ll appreciate in 10 years.

Also applied the Alcantera headliner liner. Very happy with it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So I'm really curious about this install placement of the speakers. I'm fitting in 5.25" speakers in the lower dash spot, and even had a hell of a time finding some low profile enough to not hit the windshield wiper motor. Doesn't even make sense to put speakers in the lower dash as they point downwards anyways.
Your setup makes MUCH more sense pointing right at your head. Is there really enough room above to make clearance for the cone?

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