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While I'm recovering I have had more time than usual to look up products to do "light" work on the Tith and keep crossing things to do off the list. I like the current patina on the 110 and wanted to seal it against the elements here particularly before Winter and the nasty brine solution that is sprayed in the Winter months here. I can possibly use it in the interior foot wells area as well to seal against the elements.

I don't want a glossy finish, and the POR15 Matte clear looks like a good candidate for brushing on as well as spraying on. Has anyone on this forum ever used it, or can advise on prep for the original NATO Green IFR paint? I have washed the vehicle several times and it dries pretty quickly. The gel hard top I will be painting with a sahara sand military paint and will mix in some ceramic pearls to help reduce heat and noise as well, then perhaps seal with POR15 clear, pending the success of the body application.

Any suggestions? Pointers?
 

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I wouldn't use it, but it's your railroad and you're the conductor.
 
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I used the standard black POR 15 on a tacoma frame and regretted it badly as I had to scrape it all off. The frame was imperfect with light surface rust and I prepped all according to POR 15 specs and their prep products. Brushed on. A year later I found areas that had quietly delaminated from the frame and were HOLDING moisture against the chasis....completely the opposite of the intended goal. Scrapped all of it off and brushed frame, and treated with WaxOyl. (That's a great product and has held nicely for 3 years now...looks great too after application.)

POR 15 might work fine if you're starting with a blasted chasis or is otherwise 'perfect' so the paint will stick uniformly. The POR 15 is brittle when dry so cracks and in my case let moisture in. Waxoly dries flexible and water still beads off when I use the power waster on it.

Sorry not sure about the exact product you're planning to use. But that's my POR 15 expereince...

good luck ~
 

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I understand what you're trying to accomplish but don't think that's the best product to use. I am a big fan and user of POR-15, I've successfully brushed the frame of my 90 with it and recently sprayed it onto a new rear diff cover, front rollbar hoop of the 110 and HD steering rods. FYI, POR-15 is not UV stable and will quickly breakdown if sprayed on the exterior of the truck. I top coated the rollbar hoop with a satin black automotive 2k paint, turned out really well. Seems like the clear can be exposed to UV but some users claim it yellows.

Regardless of what product you use, the surface needs to be prepped (sanded with 320grit), this will ruin the patina you're trying to preserve. Treating the vehicle won't really help with the road salt from destroying the door bottoms and eating away at the bulkhead and frame, best treatment for that is clean water washing regularly after driving.

If you want to cosmetically preserve the sunbaked paint on the truck. I suggest an automotive matte clear, Eastwood sells one. They have reasonable prices and make very good products. To properly applying this, the surface should be "scuffed" for adhesion, but that will ruin what you're trying to accomplish. If you're hellbent on doing this, wash the vehicle very thoroughly and then use a paint prep. It's definitely not the way the product is intended to be used as it normally gets sprayed onto a base coat that has just "flashed".

Good luck
 

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I've been working on my Jeep lately, this was new metal wheel wells coated in POR15 a few years ago. It was peeling off and rusted horribly underneath, I didn't realize how bad it was until I started scraping it up. Needless to say I wire wheeled it and coated in POR15 again but this time I sprayed rubberized undercoating on top of it. I've tried it on bumpers and stuff over the years and it always seems to eventually peel and trap moisture, and trust me, I'm super anal about prep work.

Sean
 

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While I'm recovering I have had more time than usual to look up products to do "light" work on the Tith and keep crossing things to do off the list. I like the current patina on the 110 and wanted to seal it against the elements here particularly before Winter and the nasty brine solution that is sprayed in the Winter months here. I can possibly use it in the interior foot wells area as well to seal against the elements.

I don't want a glossy finish, and the POR15 Matte clear looks like a good candidate for brushing on as well as spraying on. Has anyone on this forum ever used it, or can advise on prep for the original NATO Green IFR paint? I have washed the vehicle several times and it dries pretty quickly. The gel hard top I will be painting with a sahara sand military paint and will mix in some ceramic pearls to help reduce heat and noise as well, then perhaps seal with POR15 clear, pending the success of the body application.

Any suggestions? Pointers?
Do you have any pics?
 

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I’ve seen some folks oil up their exMODs with linseed oil. Gives a nice sheen and enhances the patina while also offering protection.

1987 LHD Tithonus with a low mile 200tdi
Might work in some place like the UK (for a short time), but any place with significant sunshine (e.g. UV), it'll degrade pretty quickly. I build furniture, and even indoors, linseed oil makes things look great, but offers almost no protection.
 

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Regular POR15 is a moisture-cured urethane. There are several on the market. I don't generally recommend them as epoxies generally perform much better. Both are very UV susceptible.

However, POR15 Matte clear is not an MCU, but just an average automotive urethane clear coat. It's merely branded as POR15 and advertised to give regular POR15 additional durability and UV stability.

Urethane clear coats are generally sprayed to surfaces that have either been applied recently, which creates a strong chemical bond or by using abrasion (sanding) to produce sufficient surface roughness for a strong mechanically keyed bond. I would not recommend spraying any urathane clear coat to your vehicle as the surface will not be prepped properly and will eventually lead to unsightly peeling clear coat. You could attempt to sand the entire surface with a fine-grit abrasive to improve adhesion, but this will be laborious and likely alter the surface appearance.

What I would recommend is a protective paint coating designed for matte paint that can be reapplied as needed. This will protect your paint from moisture, dirt, chemicals, and UV without altering its appearance. Dr. Beasley's Matte Paint Coating is one such product.

Another thing to consider is that most of the corrosion that Defenders experience starts from the backside of panels where they are only protected with thin primer coatings. To make things worse, the panels are also double skinned in several areas, and worse yet again, layered upon steel which leads to galvanic corrosion that appears as bubbling flakey paint. The standard way to protect against this (without tearing the whole vehicle apart and galvanizing every piece of steel that comes into contact with aluminum) is to use one of the many spray-applied corrosion inhibiting treatments that exist on the market.
 

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When I use POR 15, the only way I go, is sandblast, degreaser, prep, POr15 rust preventative then POR15 top coat. If I wait after the rust preventative, then I sand it with 220 to key the coat, I use POR15 primer the POR15 top coat. and have for a long damn time. Outside of galv, it lasts the longest but by far most elbow grease worth it to me. For high impact/scratch areas (II like to off road here in CO) I use rattle can black. Typically Rustoleum black but no issue with Krylon.

current axle over last month (axle new to me…)…


Top coat, semi gloss black also on…no pic…
 
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