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I've also used those brackets and they are not straightforward. You still need to to make spacers and align The caliper. I covered it in my Salisbury disc thread
 

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rear brake conversion

I've also used those brackets and they are not straightforward. You still need to to make spacers and align The caliper. I covered it in my Salisbury disc thread

Thank you for the info.
I want to do this conversion but I want to re-use my Salisbury shafts
what Do you guy's suggest on parts to use?
 

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It is covered in this thread. You use front hubs, normal rear calipers, rotors, pads and caliper brackets and space the caliper bracket by 6mm. Half shafts, stub axles and drive flanges are unchanged.
 

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It is covered in this thread. You use front hubs, normal rear calipers, rotors, pads and caliper brackets and space the caliper bracket by 6mm. Half shafts, stub axles and drive flanges are unchanged.
Thank you Red90 for the info.

I just recently replaced my rear hafts since they were worn out.
if i new sooner I would bought a different set so I could convert my rear brakes..
 

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There is nothing to be gained with going to the later narrow hubs other than running alloy wheels. The earlier hubs are stronger.
 

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I’m collecting all of the necessary parts to complete the “Diesel Jim” conversion method. Does anyone have a template for the 6mm spacers required for mounting the caliper brackets to the axle?
 

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I’d be in on a pair of spacers as well, I was hoping to get a nice laser-cut piece or something similar.
 

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I’m collecting all of the necessary parts to complete the “Diesel Jim” conversion method. Does anyone have a template for the 6mm spacers required for mounting the caliper brackets to the axle?
You should be able to use the caliper mounting bracket as a template.

While we're on this subject is it necessary that the spacers be made from steel? Would aluminum spacers work?
 

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I’d be in on a pair of spacers as well, I was hoping to get a nice laser-cut piece or something similar.
I've always been surprised that nobody makes these.
 

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I'll have a look and see if I've got a template of the brackets I made.


As you may remember from the original thread I posted; I kind of red-necked them out with an angle grinder as I never had a plasma cutter at the time (and the one I've now got has the dreaded lucas "lets let the smoke out of the main PCB" so it's FUBAR'd :-(
 

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HI there guy's

I made my own 6mm metric or 1/4" from 4"x12" steel flatbar .
It was easy to trace them by using the new caliper brackets (FTC3306 )
Drilled out the mounting holes & used a plasma cutter with a help of a co-worker to cut them out..

I ordered slot/cut from disc rotors for the front axle and the oem front disc brake rotors I installed on the rear axle.

I had some help from Jan-Willem & The rest was a piece of cake

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Parts needed for conversion.
x2 Front hubs FRC6139 -
Right Calipers STC1268
- Left Caliper STC1269
- x4 Caliper Fixing Bolt SYP500090
- Caliper Mounting brackets FTC3306
- Right mud Shields LR017960 -
Left mud Shields LR017961
- Brake Pads SFP000280 -
Pin kit RTC5001 -
This needs to be complete kit these are just the pins
x2 Brake Rotors LR017951 -
x2 Lock Washers FTC3179 -
x2 Drive Flange Gasket 571752 -
x2 Axle stub gasket FTC3649 -
x2 Hub seal RTC3511
4x timken set 37
10x bolt for hub to disk
8x m10x50 10,9 grade
M10x1 speed bleeders

Just wanted to do a write up on my conversion to disk brakes. My truck is a 1986 110 with a Salisbury rear axle. A big shout out to napalm for helping me out.
As I figured out there is a couple ways of doing this conversion and I’m now writing on my personal experience on what I figured out.
I reused the stub axles that we’re on my axle. I just removed the backing plate and reused 2 of the original bolts with new lock nuts. Then I mounted the new mounting brackets with 2 fabricated shims these are 1/4 inch thick and are needed to clear the rear of the brake disk. I used locktite to mount this. Make sure you clean the back of the axle flange of paint and grime.
Mount the disk to the hub with new bolts with locktite. Fit the bearing races and bearings with grease to the hub. Add the hub seal and mount hub to the axle stub.
Put the outside bearing on and tighten it with the bearing nut. Note the that the outside bearing is not all the way on the raised section on the axle stub.
Adjust the bearing and tighten the lock nut. The drive member and drive shaft are still the original and do not need to be replaced. Put this on the new hub with new gaskets.
Mount the new caliper with the new bolt to the bracket FTC 3306. The disk should be right in the center of the caliper. Put the new pads on with the hardware kit. Make new brake tubes or reuse the original ones. Bleed the system with the speed bleeders.

Let me know if I missed anything or have any questions. I’m not claiming that this is the right way. This is just how I did it.

 

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Photos of first weekend trip

* Stopped a Serpent dragon from entering Palm Canyon spring & Kill Elephant new born..
*Head to Head with the Mighty Scorpion King
* Rescue a Willy's Jeep
*Camping near the Sahara Desert ?

It was a nice trip and was super happy how my new brakes handle the tough downhills and
off-roading in the lower desert.
 

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I'm thinking about converting my '88 Sals rear diff to disk brakes but also updating some of the internals while I'm in there.

In theory, I could purchase:
New stub axles ftc1740
New hubs ftc942
Ashcroft LATE sals halfshafts
Ashcroft HD flanges
Some upgraded big break kit, like Tarox, that includes bracket/caliper/disks, etc.

Will I need to do anything to my diff? Or, is it already 24 spline inside?
Also, what's the thought on genuine vs. aftermarket on stub axles and hubs? Quite the price difference there...
 

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I have used aftermarket stub axles and used OEM hubs since the used hubs are really easy to come by.

You can check and see if you are 24 spline at the diff,which you should be, by pulling the rear axle takes about 5 minutes.

The axle housing itself from flange to flange is the same for all years sals. If you decide to go with short late model shafts then everything else from the axle flange out has to be late model there are multiple types of part combinations that you can do. But everything must be for narrow spaced bearings.

You can also save some money and go with wide space bearings in the rear by reusing hubs and then getting all early stuff. I'm not sure of the differences of the half shaft cost anymore before I did the custom run with Ashcroft a few years ago You could not get heavy duty inner half shafts for long length drum applications. Now you can and you have a choice!

If You're looking for longevity of parts availability I would probably go with the narrow spaced stuff since they made a lot more trucks in those years and you're not relying on dwindling new old stock.

If You are looking for maximum cheapness and maximum strength at the hub I would go with the wide space bearing early stuff.

one more thing to keep in mind is that most of these big brake kits are designed for later axle housings, I don't know if there's any difference in mounts or shock mounts or anything like that. So it's worthwhile making sure that all of these new things that are designed for later axles will fit an early axle without fouling something.

For example when I put my red winches brand front caliper mounts on my rears they fouled the right hand shock mount. It was an easy fix with a grinder but still it's a pain in the ass
 

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All salisburies are 24 spine at the diff end.
I've used bearmach stubs. all seem ok.

Had friends use britpart ones and the threads were useless on the ends!
 

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Old thread I know. Is anyone making the 6mm spacers for the conversion on the Salisbury axles? I don't have the tooling to make my own, and would definitely love to change the rear drums to discs on the back in a few months.

Collecting parts slowly as they pop up.

E
 

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Old thread I know. Is anyone making the 6mm spacers for the conversion on the Salisbury axles? I don't have the tooling to make my own, and would definitely love to change the rear drums to discs on the back in a few months.

Collecting parts slowly as they pop up.

E
I believe Rijidij Off Road in Australia make them, send Murray an email.
If not try KLR Automotive down here as well, they do a disc brake kits for the old Sals.

Sent from my SM-A526B using Tapatalk
 
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