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200 mile follow-up. Not a big fan of the ebc pads. I wish I went with genuine, but they are sending me some shims to see if that stops the squealing. I used ferodo pads in the front with copper grease / no shims and never heard a sound.

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So I finished up the conversion on my 110. I also went with the kit from Lucky8. While mine did bolt right up, I will agree that I did have to source some additional parts. I am very happy with the braking compared to the drums that came off I am hearing a sound as the rear brakes engage. It almost sounds like the pads are in there loose and I hear them clink as they engage the disk. This is not a squeak but more like a clink as the pad first makes contact with the disc. Any thoughts on this? I was a bit surprised by the lightweight makeup of the disc spring itself feeling that it allowed the pad to move without much resistance at all. I think the spring in a ball point pen puts up more of a fight than what I have. I only have about 1 mile on this setup so not much to go on but would appreciate any insights.
 

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Ditched the crap pads that came in the kit and replaced with genuine, which included the shims. Significant improvement. still a very slight rattle on passenger side but a 99% improvement.
 

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Spoke too soon. I now believe my better experience was just new springs which after about 20 minutes allow the pads to move around. Any ideas or suggestions on how to get rid of this sound. Appears to be the pads in the calipers. When I apply brakes I can hear them grab and the sound goes away entirely. I am using the STC1268/STC1269 110 calipers and the LR017951 Non vented disc (which I believe is a front disc but is what came in the LK8 kit). I saw some mention of a defender 110 brake "anti rattle kit" but I cannot find a part number. The sound is much more than a nuisance level as it can be heard from both inside and outside the vehicle while driving. Thinking about trying a set of the split pin type pads as they appear to have a different style retaining spring which could eliminate the movement/rattle. Any/all suggestions welcome.
 

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I ended up with genuine pads with the LR shim kit, genuine springs and anti rattle mechanism, which came as a separate kit. Not sure on on. Ordered that part from RN.

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Front non vented (solid) discs are different to 110 rears.... the rears are much thicker.


I'm not sure about the diameter though


Don't know if any of that will make a difference to squeeling though.
 

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If you have LR017951 disc they are the wrong ones. You should have FTC3846 and use only G or genuine versions.

Pads must be SFP000280 and use Genuine only.

We install about 20 of these kits a year and never have issues.
 

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Front non vented (solid) discs are different to 110 rears.... the rears are much thicker.

I'm not sure about the diameter though

Don't know if any of that will make a difference to squeeling though.
I'm pretty sure they are the same up to 1998 for 110s. 90s, Discos, RRC had the narrower 12.5 mm discs that were a smaller diameter.

LR017951 FTC3846 BR1792R
110s to 1998.
298 mm diameter, 14 mm thick, 70.1 mm width.

ANR4983, FRC7329, FRC9831, FTC1381, R571762 Solid front axle brake disc.
298 mm diameter, 14 mm thick, 70.1 mm width.

FTC1381 LR017953
Discovery 1 (all), Defender 90 (all, mid 1993 on), Range Rover Classic 86-95
290 mm diameter, 12.5 mm thick, 61.4 mm width.

SDB000330AP LR018026
110s - 1999+
298 mm diameter, 14 mm thick, 59.1 mm width. What is interesting here is they narrowed the discs. I assume that they must have changed the caliper mount at the same time.
 

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Later 110's (with salisburies, and then the P38 axle) had thicker pads (and wider calipers)... I think to address a problem of rears wearing out faster than the fronts (in between services)
 

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Switched over to the FTC3846 rotors. Sound is gone (for now). I also doubled up my pin springs as I had a set from prior kit. I suspect as soon as those springs start to wear my sound may return as dimensionally the rotors I put on are the same as what I took off.

Can anyone tell me the part number of the tension springs circled in the photos attached? They came from the Rovers North instruction sheet found here https://www.roversnorth.com/files/D...r-2011-Discovery-RRC-Defender-Brakes-Tech.pdf.

I called RN this morning and they said they could not find the part or any reference to it. I know the document is for front brakes but I don't see any reason why these would not fit the rears as well. I am hoping this belt and suspenders approach will solve the issue once and for all.
 

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Mike pointed me to the anti rattle kit part LR070898. A little spendy but worth it if it eliminates the rattle. An example of what I am hearing is can be seen/heard at the link below.

https://youtu.be/MoYa-bR0ZQM

Initial test drive seems positive. "springs" provide extra length to the pad and seems to prevent/reduce the front to back movement.
 

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salisbury disc brake conversion

Hi there

I just wanted to share this with you guys that I found online.
Red-winches they sale rear caliper mounting bracket kit that I think will make thins much easier..
check out the link below
https://www.red-winches.com/products/rear-axle-disc-brake-conversion-lr/109/

I been thinking on doing this conversion to my Wolf Ex-mod for a while now
but with Jan willem parts list breakdown & photos..
He made this project much easier to understand.

- x2 Front hubs FRC6139 -
Right Calipers STC1268
- Left Caliper STC1269


- Right mud Shields LR017960 -
Left mud Shields LR017961
- Brake Pads SFP000280 -

Pin kit RTC5001 -
This needs to be complete kit these are just the pins
x2 Brake Rotors LR017951 -

x2 Hub seal RTC3511
4x timken set 37
M10x1 speed bleeders
 

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The Red winches bracket is for mounting four piston calipers. The point of doing that is to use two pistons for fiddle brakes and the other two for the main brakes.

For regular two piston rears you just use the Land Rover brackets.
 
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