Defender Source Forum banner
41 - 49 of 49 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,387 Posts
First download the factory manual. It is much better.

Removing the rad, grill and upper support makes it easier but not required. It is only a few bolts.

If LHD, you will need to remove the PS pump and move it out of the way. Otherwise it will hit the steering box. You can leave the hoses attached and tie it to the side.

Remove nuts from engine mounts and loosen gearbox mounts. Lift the engine up enough to remove the engine mounts and then drop back down without the mounts. This will provide adequate clearance to access the upper bellhousing bolts. When you are ready to pull the engine, lift it back to the normal height and put a jack under the front of the gearbox to support it once the engine is pulled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
We will be removing the four injectors from our engine and the four from the new donor engine so we can get new tips and reset opening pressures in all eight of them. A local shop in Bellingham will be doing the work. Will be nice to get fresh injectors and have some backups.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,628 Posts
Yeh you definitely want spares of those chicken teeth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
We've started opening up the engine, removed the timing belt cover and are looking for the timing dots or cast marks. Can anyone take a look at this picture and tell me where they are or are supposed to be? Also, should I buy the timing belt tool kit, or can we just use various bits about the shop? Thank you!

I did find this related guide. It looks great!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,628 Posts
Howzabout you download the manual and follow the directions. It's dead simple. You can get away with using shop tools and drill bit
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,788 Posts
There are advantages to having a proper timing kit as it has the lower locking pin and it will simplify things.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Checksicks
41 - 49 of 49 Posts
Top