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Discussion Starter #1
So I did search, and there are a lot of speaker threads out there, but most of them are bordering on 10 years old at this point. I put in some Infinity speakers 20 years ago, and they were okay with the factory head unit, but time has destroyed them, and the surrounds are torn or disintegrated for the most part.

It's a soft top 90, so I'm not looking to spend several hundred dollars a pair on speakers, several hundred more on Amps etc. Just looking for something that sounds decent with the stock head unit/amp (or maybe an upgraded head unit at some point in the near future to take advantage of modern inputs).

Looking to spend around $100, maybe $150 a pair for speakers, and maybe consider a powered sub of some kind to go with it, but I'm not looking to throw a lot of money at a stereo system in a tin can with no roof. Durability (poly cone and some type of weather resistant surround) is up there with sounds quality as important factors.

In the past Crutchfield would be my go to resource, and I've browsed the offerings, but looking at the reviews always leaves me so confused, so many people think they are awesome, and others say the same ones are ****.

So looking to the community to see what they are running, and what their opinion has been of their set-ups. Thanks in advance gang..
 

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Recently redid the stereo in my 94 NAS. Great setup, all from Crutchfield. A Clarion M508 marine receiver that linked through Bluetooth to stream from your phone or whatever. Two pairs of Rockford Fosgate P152 5 1/4” speakers, on sale for $75 a pair. Not marine, but they have polyurethane/plastic type

cones so should be pretty waterproof. Also, closest to a plain black grill at a reasonable price. I also wired a little marine amplifier, Clarion XC2410, into the cubby box. It all fit into the factory spots and is as “stock looking” as I could get. Don’t listen to music much, but it is now possible. The little amp makes a big difference. You can actually hear music clearly on a highway. The downside is that you have to turn it up so loud you’ll just go deaf.





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I ordered one of these a few months ago. I have not gotten around to installing it yet. It runs everything through your phone and eliminates the need for the head unit altogether.


+1 on the Clarion M508 head unit also. I have that same unit on my boat and it works great. Plenty of input/output options and it puts out 50W per channel so an amplifier may not be necessary. I run wetsounds amps and speakers on the boat, but that is a completely different application.



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Ive got some Polk speakers in my 90 at least one has a hole in it. I had some JL as well as Alpine (S?) in an old car and they were punchy with a small amp.

I am perplexed as to why people are asking such big bucks for "Genuine" speakers.
 

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1988 ROW 110 From w/ LS3 6L80E
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If You don’t really need a head unit the new amplifiers out there are really slick. For example this is one of many that have built-in Bluetooth in the amplifier. Basically eliminates the need for head unit. You can mount it anywhere such as battery box to minimize wiring and keep dry and out of sight. Has more than enough power to push 4 speakers. The money you save on the head unit you can invest in a sub.

Kenwood 1177524 Compact Automotive/Marine Amplifier Class D Kac-M1824BT, 180W RMS, 400W PMPO, 4 Channel Amazon.com: Kenwood 1177524 Compact Automotive/Marine Amplifier Class D Kac-M1824BT, 180W RMS, 400W PMPO, 4 Channel


What size speakers are you looking for? Polk audio makes good marine speakers at a fair price for about $60 a pair. I’ve had some in my dinghy that were completely submerged in salt water when my bilge pump failed. After I cleaned everything out they powered right up. I would go with me marine grade as it provides the right UV protection as well as better protected components inside. Also usually slim mount. Kenwood and Alpine also make good speakers at a fair price. If you want to take it up a notch you could go infinity or top-notch JL audio or focal. Grab 2 way speakers so you have better range. If you have room go with 6.5 inch at least in the rear for better overall balance. If you go with 5.25 you will want some sort of sub. There are a few brands that sell a solid 8” sub with built in amps
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Recently redid the stereo in my 94 NAS. Great setup, all from Crutchfield. A Clarion M508 marine receiver that linked through Bluetooth to stream from your phone or whatever. Two pairs of Rockford Fosgate P152 5 1/4” speakers, on sale for $75 a pair. Not marine, but they have polyurethane/plastic type
cones so should be pretty waterproof. Also, closest to a plain black grill at a reasonable price. I also wired a little marine amplifier, Clarion XC2410, into the cubby box. It all fit into the factory spots and is as “stock looking” as I could get. Don’t listen to music much, but it is now possible. The little amp makes a big difference. You can actually hear music clearly on a highway. The downside is that you have to turn it up so loud you’ll just go deaf.
Appreciate the photos you included. I've had and liked Rockford speakers in past car installations. Curious why you went with 5 1/4" speakers? I currently have 6 1/2" and wasn't planning to go any smaller. Feel like I get minimal if any bass as it is with the 6.5's, but maybe that's just because I'm still just driving them with the factory radio and amp?

Ive got some Polk speakers in my 90 at least one has a hole in it. I had some JL as well as Alpine (S?) in an old car and they were punchy with a small amp.

I am perplexed as to why people are asking such big bucks for "Genuine" speakers.
I saw the Ad for the pair of 'Genuine' speakers. I guess if you are doing a restoration and want everything factory original, otherwise I have no idea, they sucked from a listening standpoint..

If You don’t really need a head unit the new amplifiers out there are really slick. For example this is one of many that have built-in Bluetooth in the amplifier. Basically eliminates the need for head unit. You can mount it anywhere such as battery box to minimize wiring and keep dry and out of sight. Has more than enough power to push 4 speakers. The money you save on the head unit you can invest in a sub.

Kenwood 1177524 Compact Automotive/Marine Amplifier Class D Kac-M1824BT, 180W RMS, 400W PMPO, 4 Channel Amazon.com: Kenwood 1177524 Compact Automotive/Marine Amplifier Class D Kac-M1824BT, 180W RMS, 400W PMPO, 4 Channel


What size speakers are you looking for? Polk audio makes good marine speakers at a fair price for about $60 a pair. I’ve had some in my dinghy that were completely submerged in salt water when my bilge pump failed. After I cleaned everything out they powered right up. I would go with me marine grade as it provides the right UV protection as well as better protected components inside. Also usually slim mount. Kenwood and Alpine also make good speakers at a fair price. If you want to take it up a notch you could go infinity or top-notch JL audio or focal. Grab 2 way speakers so you have better range. If you have room go with 6.5 inch at least in the rear for better overall balance. If you go with 5.25 you will want some sort of sub. There are a few brands that sell a solid 8” sub with built in amps
Interesting stuff (Bluetooth amps), I'm so far removed from keeping up with this stuff these days...

I was planning to run 6.5's (as I am currently), was even wondering it I could get away with one of the 6.75's. Front doors are the limitation, and seem to have just shy of 3" of depth to play with there, but the current opening is only about 5 1/8", and I really don't want to start cutting up the factory door cards to fit something larger..

For now its four speakers only, then maybe down the road a small powered sub, then maybe a Head Unit upgrade. Defender updates aren't allocated a big part of the family budget these days..

Was considering the Kicker 47KSC6704 - 6.75" with a less than 2" mounting depth, with a Frequency Response down to 40 Hz, and 90 dB sensitivity they are intriguing, but they require a a little over 5 1/2" opening, so I'd have to trim..

Was also looking at the Rockford T1650 - 6.5" Deeper mounting depth (little over 2.5" but seems fine by my measurements), Frequency Response down to 44 Hz, but only 88 dB sensitivity aqnd also require a 5 1/2" opening..

The JL Audio c1-650X Should fit with no trimming, and I've liked JL audio speakers in past installations, but they were higher end, and these give me a feeling of 'built cheap to get the nameplate', but maybe I am wrong. Also not a fan of the Yellow cones (even though they match the truck I guess.. LOL) - 90.5 dB sensitivity, and down to 48 Hz

I should probably buy a set of Rovers North Door cards to mount whatever I want in, and pack away the factory ones for safe keeping, but seems like an expense that would be difficult to justify..

I guess my concern is whether the stock radio and amp will power any of these sufficiently to sound good, or if they will all sound like crap with the factory configuration driving them..

I was looking at the Sony MEX-M100BT HU - It is a Marine HU with 40 watts RMS into 4 channels (100 peak). This seems on par with the smaller amps you guys are talking about, so is that comparable, or no?

Anyone know the actual RMS output of the Factory Amp? I mean its 25+ year old tech, so even if the numbers are there, probably not the best quality..
 

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A 6.5" speaker has over 50% more surface area than a 5.25", when it comes to speakers, size does matter when it comes to frequency response. When ever possible, go with the larger size. Powering poor speakers with an amp just gives you louder crappy sound.
 

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I've got these in my 110, and they are adequate to hear over the diesel. All work off the head unit (Kenwood DNX773S)
Fronts: JBL GT7-5C GT7 Series 5-1/4" component speaker system at Crutchfield
Rear: JBL GT7-4 GT7 Series 4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

And I went with this under the rear seat: JBL BassPro SL 8" compact powered under-seat subwoofer enclosure at Crutchfield
However, I took it out to install one in the locker under the cubby, and this one wouldn't fit due to the wires connecting on the longer side instead of the shorter side. But I would recommend it to mount under a seat or to the back of a cubby box. It's available if anyone is interested!
 

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Scott, I agree. For my situation I had 4" openings and expanded them to 5.25" which is what I could get away with for the top rear of the wagon (corners of barn door). You have to factor in another 1" or so over the speaker size for the total size of the speaker. So 6.25 was about all I had to work with.

I agree on the 6.5s. I wouldnt go lower to a 5.25 else you will sacrifice sound quality and lose mid/low range. 6.5" is a good balanced speaker for a 4 speaker set up.

Not sure if it will work in the door cards as I have no door card speakers but if you have the space, try Amazon.com : speaker mounting rings these rings will allow you to pop out the speaker a little more to give more clearance and also install a larger speaker in a smaller cut out. I used them in the back of my 110 to avoid cutting the panel by popping out the larger speaker by .5" so that it clears the original cut out and also allows for a deeper speaker to be installed. Lots of options there to cover any scenario.

I havent heard those JLs but at $119/pair they are not on the cheap side and likely better than the polks. Keep in mind that the higher end the speaker, it may need more power to push so may end up sounding worse than a mid grade $70 speaker.

The sony head unit is good power but I would question the 45w rms. Likely at full volume but better than nothing. Also the distortion at that level would likely be undesirable. If you dont need a head unit and will stream most music, consider the amp. If you have an old head unit, I assume you can still use that with the amp and get the blue tooth function with the amp if your missing it on your head unit and also get good quality power behind the new speakers.

The higher end amps are smaller in size with similar power to amps we ran 20+ years ago. On amazon you will see some low cost amps like this one


Its fairly large for the power which is why its so cheap. BTW familiar with Blaupunkt but not this amp. But at $55 would be better than a head unit drive amp and allow you to either buy a cheaper head unit?

Peter
 

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I used a pioneer app unit, 6.5 Vegas in mud panels in the rear, 5.25 Fosgates in the front dash powered by the unit and a 10” powered Vega sub under the cubby. The head unit set up the sound with a mic and it sounds really nice. I added some matting around the speakers and housings which made a difference. The Rockford Fosgate speakers are pretty impressive for 5 1/4s and $40 and the 6.5s are $38 full range speakers


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For hard tops and 110's we do have the luxury of getting a 6 1/2 up top above the doors which makes a huge difference. The panels I make for the 6 1/2's is 2 .25" thick in some areas (Birch Ply) and holds the 4 lbs of magnets no problem. I always recommend adding Dynamat across the back of the roof to add sound insulation that improves the sound. Keeping in mind, larger speaker, larger magnet, more weight, you need more support.

If a speaker is mounted on a thin flimsy surface, you are going to lose sound (the supporting surface resonates with the speaker, not good. Ever see a quality home speaker made from thin light material?)

For soft, or hard top, adding Dynamat in the enclosure, or insulation helps. If you have door speakers, Dynamat your doors. If your speakers are over the rear light covers, Dynamat the cover, and as much of the back of the panel as you can.
Liner&panel.jpeg

Liner&panel.jpeg
 

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Several of you mentioned putting a powered sub under the cubby box. Are you using an OEM cubby with a MudStuff cubby sub enclosure under? Or? I am looking for ideas on how to put a powered sub under a 12.5” wide Tuffy console cubby. Pictures of your set up would be nice-
 

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Several of you mentioned putting a powered sub under the cubby box. Are you using an OEM cubby with a MudStuff cubby sub enclosure under? Or? I am looking for ideas on how to put a powered sub under a 12.5” wide Tuffy console cubby. Pictures of your set up would be nice-
I used the sub locker from MudUK... that's all I had saved in my phone. Hope that helps! Only thing I noticed is that you need to make sure you have a sub that the wires come in on the short sides (aka Front or back). I had the one mentioned before where they came in on the side (long edge) and wasn't enough room to situate everything.

IMG_20190623_182556.jpg

IMG_20190716_175922_01.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The sony head unit is good power but I would question the 45w rms. Likely at full volume but better than nothing. Also the distortion at that level would likely be undesirable. If you dont need a head unit and will stream most music, consider the amp. If you have an old head unit, I assume you can still use that with the amp and get the blue tooth function with the amp if your missing it on your head unit and also get good quality power behind the new speakers.

The higher end amps are smaller in size with similar power to amps we ran 20+ years ago. On amazon you will see some low cost amps like this one


Its fairly large for the power which is why its so cheap. BTW familiar with Blaupunkt but not this amp. But at $55 would be better than a head unit drive amp and allow you to either buy a cheaper head unit?

Peter
I wondered about that, figuring THD must be higher on the head unit amps, my experience coming from the days when a clean powerful amp was at least 16-20 inches long. But now I am wondering, when i read this on the spec page "The CTA-2006 (formerly CEA-2006) rating allows you to compare car stereos on an equal basis. This rating measures RMS wattage into a 4-ohm load with 1% total harmonic distortion (THD) at a frequency range of 20 Hz to 20,000 Hz". Makes me wonder, has technology just gotten good enough that they can page a true 40 watt RMS amp into a head unit chassis? I want to believe so, given that at $218 its cheaper than just the bluetooth amp, and one less device that needs to be wired in..

Several of you mentioned putting a powered sub under the cubby box. Are you using an OEM cubby with a MudStuff cubby sub enclosure under? Or? I am looking for ideas on how to put a powered sub under a 12.5” wide Tuffy console cubby. Pictures of your set up would be nice-
I like how neat and clean the MudStuff under cubby box is, but have to wonder if it wouldn't cause all the crap in the cubby to vibrate around and make noises I don't want to hear..
 

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There are lots of options out there now compared to the years past as far as amps go. One thing of particular interest is some of the quality amps that are now available small a compact size. Compared to my old Alpine V12 which is almost the size of a seat base, Focal has some amazing amps, 4" x 7" x 1" 2 channel 200W. Not the cheapest out there, but you can get pretty creative now.

A pair of these under the seat with some good drivers and you'll be rockin'.

446634
 

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Discussion Starter #17
$450 2 channel amps. Okay, you guys are taking me deep down the rabbit hole now..

Must Focus, Four 6.5" Speakers..
Maybe (big Maybe) a new head unit or an amp to boost the current one so that they can sound decent..
Would love to add a sub, but doubt that is happening..
 

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You don't need four 6.5". Two is enough to carry the low end. You want smaller ones pointing at you as the high frequencies are very directional. The lows are not.
 

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Here you go. You may need a bigger alternator. Not sure if the wife would be happy about the loss of cargo space.

 

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Correction...

Looked at the wrong receipt when I wrote my first response. The speakers in my green D90 are actually 6 1/2” Rockford Fosgate P16 speakers, still on sale for $75 at Crutchfield. That is the biggest size that will fit without any cutting into the stock locations on a 94 NAS.

I put a LaSalle headliner in my D110, and that took the 5 1/4” size speakers, the Rockford Fosgate P152’s. The way the LaSalle headliner is molded the 5 1/4 inch size is the biggest that will fit by your ears. They say that the same size will fit over the rear doors, but actually a 4” would be the biggest there. Since I had an extra pair of the metal things that cover the wires in the back corners of the D110 I mounted another pair of the P152’s in them. The Clarion M205 with the two pairs of 5 1/4” speakers is plenty loud and clear in the 110. Of course, even though it is a diesel it’s a hard top, and having one set of speakers right at ear level makes a huge difference.

Reading all these posts it’s clear that stereo advice is as passionate as discussions on oil brands or tyre types. My goals were to be as waterproof and unobtrusive as possible. The Clarion M205 is a relatively high powered marine receiver, and has a very clean, simple black face. I could not find any reasonably priced (or any, actually) marine speakers with plain black mesh looking grills. The Rockford Fosgate ones should be pretty weatherproof if you look at the construction of the speaker cones. Crutchfield does sell some other speakers from Focal and maybe Morel that look to have water resistant construction and the style of plain black mesh grill that I wanted. However, those options were much more expensive, and I couldn’t pass on the $75/pair sale price for the Rockford Fosgates.






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