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Discussion Starter #1
In process of replacing transmission/transfer case for 200tdi what was in there assuming original 1984 110.
& rear main seal.
question being what seal to use?
both from Briton the green one comes with installer yes britpart was more $ that the orange (silicone) one?
I did read one thread talked about removing the center bit? Assuming that is not necessary?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Turner? I was yes wondering about those seals.

transmission seals you mean was rebuilt.
 

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I would order everything you need from them. The T seals are in the block at the rear bearing of the crankshaft. If you have a lot of oil in the flywheel housing it’s likely that those t seals have failed (they seem to harden over time) and need to be replaced. You’ll also need the gasket that goes between the block and the flywheel housing.

There’s a thread on this from when I did mine. I’ll see if I can dig it up.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
To complicate things this is I have been told a Range Rover 200 tdi although I do not see that listing on the turner site I assume they would know hopefully.
i cannot find on fiche since it is not a defender engine supposedly.
 

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Rear main seal: only use the Dowty style seal that comes with the seal installer sleeve. Install the seal fully seated into the clutch housing with red locktite around the metal edge (green part) of the seal. you can get real dowty seals only from turners in the UK. Cut two heads off some M10or m8 bolts that would usually hold the clutch housing to the engine block. When installing the clutch housing and rear main assembly leave the plastic sleeve on the rear main seal, it will be pushed off by the crank itself as the clutch housing is bolted down. Make sure the crank has been cleaned with red scotchbrite and is 100% dry and grease free. use the headless bolts as alignment pins when putting on the clutch housing, rear main seal and the big block paper gasket. remove after install and discard then bolt up as normal.

ladder frame and oil pan get no gasket only black right stuff

flywheel should be machined prior to install, if the machine shop guys are pussys and cant remove the taper pins they can be drilled out from behind then tapped out with no ill effects. or you can weld a nut to them and slide hammer them out. Trevor @ rovarharm has them \

use a 130 style clutch plate (six springs i think) and HD fork. the Valeo one is nice that does not require bodybuilder legs to depress but still has much better holding power than the stock unit

T seals: use the rubber style seals not the cork ones. baste them generouslywith black right stuff, not regular RTV. use a homemade block tool described in the shop manual or the will tear. cut them about 1mm proud of the face of bearing block top.

Clutch housing to bock paper gasket: only use the Grey style that has the raised silicone oil seals printed on it. baste this area with black right stuff

Rrc/disco/defender all use the same parts. Engine has to come out to do ladderframe/rear bearing block/tseals. You would be a fool not to do them.


Only ONLY use a corteco oem MAIN seal from turners. ONLY . Throw the britpart seals you have in the trash.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The black stuff is ultra black?
I brought the flywheel to machine shop the owner knew what it was mentioned more time would be needed to get taper pins out two of them needed extra help.
ROADspec TDI 200/300tdi Clutch Kit with HD clutch arm
looks like turner has these, ERR 2532 Rear Oil Seal
I will contact them Monday morning.
the T seals are in this picture?
assuming paper gasket #10 goes behind engine part of clutch housing?
i will be getting a updated manual this week

also one of the studs holding the clutch housing in place was missing one was loose, are those available?
and or dimensions.
and the dowel alignment pins on transmission are they removable as can you knock out fro behind?
rebuilt transmission missing one, have yet to separate transmission transfer case to see what is there.

I am doing this in a shop owned by friend whom is working on a MG TD brakes whom makes sure the important parts are done properly. As I have not done this before.
 

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The black stuff is ultra black?
I brought the flywheel to machine shop the owner knew what it was mentioned more time would be needed to get taper pins out two of them needed extra help.
ROADspec TDI 200/300tdi Clutch Kit with HD clutch arm
looks like turner has these, ERR 2532 Rear Oil Seal
I will contact them Monday morning.
the T seals are in this picture?
assuming paper gasket #10 goes behind engine part of clutch housing?
i will be getting a updated manual this week

also one of the studs holding the clutch housing in place was missing one was loose, are those available?
and or dimensions.
and the dowel alignment pins on transmission are they removable as can you knock out fro behind?
rebuilt transmission missing one, have yet to separate transmission transfer case to see what is there.

I am doing this in a shop owned by friend whom is working on a MG TD brakes whom makes sure the important parts are done properly. As I have not done this before.

No it's so much better.


T seals are in the parts manual with the rear bearing cap.

Read through the manual.

Paper gasket is #19

Studs are available

Pins are not removable from behind.

Read for sure, 200 TDI rear main and t seals are super common leak points. If you follow the general directions above you should get it done correctly. A 4-in PVC pipe cap will drive the rear main seal perfectly. Buy an extra set of t seals because you're probably going to **** it up the first time
 

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I've read about bolts that go through the flywheel housing into the ladder frame...of the 200tdi...but l'm not seeing them in the above picture. Just dropped a 200tdi in my 110 and was reading up on them afterwards and came across folks mentioning these bolts and how you can't remove ladder frame without pulling engine. Thought, boy...that makes it impossible to do a simple inframe rebuild...if so. Anyhow, wondering why l'm not seeing the ladder frame bolts in this picture.

Apologies to original poster for sidetrack question.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Deputy all good questions need answers, I am hoping manual shows up today.

appears T seals expose the bearing hence you do those with engine supported in vehicle.
the ladder frame rear bearing block frame how/where is engine supported?

i will run those by the shop owner today he was a caterpillar mechanic at one point so will see.
 

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You’ll want an engine stand. Once the flywheel housing is removed the block can be bolted to the stand, flipped upside down and then you remove the sump, oil pump, ladder frame and finally the large main bearing that houses the t seals. Once the ladder frame is removed you’ll see the t seals.

I have video footage of my own reseal but have yet to go through it and edit. Send me a pm with your email and I’ll send if you want.

If you don’t have already, download or buy the pre 1993 manual and possibly the parts catalog. Those were very helpful for me. Also, you’ll need to replace the oil pump gasket when you reinstall so get that now. I had to wait several days to put mine back together because I forgot to order the gasket. I have extras now and if you need I can drop in the mail.
 

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I assumed you knew that engine has to be removed.

Bolts that go from to the ladderframe from the clutch housing are shown in the block diagrams. they are huge.

It sounds like you trust your caterpillar mechanic but I would implore you to find somebody who's actually worked on TDIs. they are totally different animal than the heavy duty diesel engines that this guy is used to working on.

If he doesn't follow the above steps it's going to leak 100% guaranteed.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The present job rear main seal, flywheel, clutch, rebuilt transmission, transfer case, reconditioned prop shafts.
the engine reseal will happen another time this is mainly to get the proper drivetrain in place.
after this the front above wheels comes apart including the cab which is half apart now.
new fenders new radiator Ali sport, new windscreen gasket so on.

I am still awaiting for the 200 tdi manual maybe tomorrow which I can read through to understand what you are talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Talked with Richard at Turner advised the rear main seal needs to be pressed into the front clutch case.
Advised to remove the front case to press the seal in at that time the gasket in front could be replaced.

assuming could be installed by hand also in place.
starter would need to be removed I was going to replace that.
will have another look when I get to the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I found online fiche for 200 tdi looking for hoses oil & turbo the turbo hoses come as ,Pipe-sump assembly oil drain, Engine Code 11L 2.5 TDi Diesel Turb

listed as a 2.5 TDi or is 11 L the 200 tdi engine code?
specifically interested if these parts are different between different iterations of discovery, defender & range rover?
 

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11L is the Defender 200tdi
12L is the Disco 200tdi
I think there is a 13L Disco as well
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Range Rover 200 tdi 14L prefix to my engine

would all the parts match between different models 11L-12L-13L-14L?
 
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