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Discussion Starter #1
Are radius arms from a 1993 LWB RRC the same length as from a 1993 NAS 110?

I am 99.999% sure the answer is yes, but here is why I ask - this axle position seems too far forward to me.

IMG_3029.jpg

Ignoring the funny looking spring which shouldn't be a factor here, does this axle position look right to you? I want to keep the truck at stock height or if anything lower, not higher.
 

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That does look off. What's the frame side look like? How far in have you drawn the nut on the radius arms?

-Ash
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I should have mentioned I have the nut tightened all the way to the ends of the threads. And if it matters, the axle is from the 1993 LWB RRC too.

IMG_3030.jpg

thanks.
 

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Ignoring the funny looking spring which shouldn't be a factor here, does this axle position look right to you? I want to keep the truck at stock height or if anything lower, not higher.
Actually the spring height will matter, and that spring/bag looks really short. The further the axle is pushed down(the taller the spring) the further the axle will swing to the back of the truck. Make sure the spring you're using for mock up is at least stock height or better.
 

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What about your NAS?

I have the same problem with my truck. Same issue with the original arms, same issue but more pronounced with my RTE arms.

People have said it has to do with the change in wheelbase as the radius arms drop, but that reason doesn't hold water mathematically when I do the analysis.

My guess is that it's an idiosyncratic part of the rover design.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@Jeff I did look at the D90 and chose the position of the first picture based on the position of the arms and getting the spring pad level. This approximates what my D90 looks like sitting in the driveway. I have a 2" lift on the D90 so if anything this is high for the ride height I would think. I went and actually tok a reference measurement and found I was a 1/4" more compressed. I have addicted for that and here is what I have now

IMG_3031.jpg

No appreciable difference. Yes as you lower it, it draws the axle toward the rear, but the spring pad angle changes as it goes down as well and it doesn't help matters at some point - see below :)

IMG_3023.jpg

@Brett the springs can actually compress quite a bit more and extend a WHOLE LOT more than shown. I don't have any weight on the front end and the air springs require a minimum of 10psi to compress them to their minimum, so I can't readily do that right now, but one of the reasons I am worrying about this is that I do want to compress the suspension to it's minimum and determine my bump stop height requirements as well as see what the normal ride height will look like on the springs.

@Ed, it could be just poor build tolerances on the frame mounts of something but I dunno. My google foo is weak today and I can't find a nice side shot of an axle under a frame at stock ride height to compare to. Maybe with weight on the frame and air in the bags this difference will be a non issue, but I'd sure like to figure out if there i a problem sooner than later. For your problem, I think you need to buy some expensive shocks ;)
 

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Is it too far forward or rotated slightly forward?
I just installed a TD5 front axle and suspension under my new 110 chassis and the lower spring locators are tilted down towards the front like yours in the last pictures. I'm assuming it will correct once the engine is in....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I feel like it's a bit of both, but if we accept that the first picture in post #7 is an accurate depiction of level ride height, the amount it's pushed forward seems to be a bigger issue than the slight forward tilt of the spring seat.
 

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I feel like it's a bit of both, but if we accept that the first picture in post #7 is an accurate depiction of level ride height, the amount it's pushed forward seems to be a bigger issue than the slight forward tilt of the spring seat.

Hmm looking back at the other pic I see what your saying.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Any chance someone with a 110 could take some measurements for me? Both NAS or otherwise?

1. A measurement from the washer on the frame end of the radius arm to the center of the first axle bolt hole?
2. A measurement from the hole in the frame where the radius arm attaches to an imaginary vertical line that runs down the center of the spring perch

Thanks
 

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1. A measurement from the washer on the frame end of the radius arm to the center of the first axle bolt hole?

28 3/8"

2. A measurement from the hole in the frame where the radius arm attaches to an imaginary vertical line that runs down the center of the spring perch

32 3/8"
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Jeff!

Ok this is interesting. Mine are the basically same

1. A measurement from the washer on the frame end of the radius arm to the center of the first axle bolt hole?

28 3/8"

IMG_3039.jpg IMG_3038.jpg



2. A measurement from the hole in the frame where the radius arm attaches to an imaginary vertical line that runs down the center of the spring perch

32"

IMG_3041.jpg IMG_3040.jpg

I'm thinking 3/8" is probably the margin of error in our measurements there for the center of the spring perch.

So that's not it. And I assume your axle lines up nicely?
 

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For #2 I measured to the nut that holds the bottom of the shock and got 32" then added about half the thickness of the nut for a total of ~32 3/8.

As far as I can tell my axle looks pretty well situated. It would have been nice to find a discrepancy there so you could work towards a solution.
 

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I wouldn't worry about any of this until you have it sitting fully laden. The spring will fold in on itself quite a lot.
Part of it is the spring plungers or pistons or whatever you want to call them are a bit different than the OE.
 

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Revisiting this thread, it occurred to me that a bolt-on spring perch spacer could be fabricated to correct the angle and offset. It could be made very strong yet thin enough to not contribute to ride height nor look too out of place? It does go against the "stock look" philosophy, unfortunately. Just an idea...
 

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Revisiting this thread, it occurred to me that a bolt-on spring perch spacer could be fabricated to correct the angle and offset. It could be made very strong yet thin enough to not contribute to ride height nor look too out of place? It does go against the "stock look" philosophy, unfortunately. Just an idea...
That could work but would add lift to the front end. You'd have to raise the perch up over the axle mount, then you could move it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Once I have some weight on it I'll consider my options, and this would certainly be in the cards. I think if just the bottom was angled a bit, and the top retained it would be fine too. I'm hoping it will sort itself out though :)
 
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