Defender Source Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
1986 110 ex Dutch marines
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for the mounts that bolt to the r380 transmission
Part 2 and 5
Anr2898
Anr3225
Anyone got anything?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
698 Posts
I had too find part ANR2898 recently to discover it is no longer available. I'm assuming you're finding yourself in the same position? As rovertrader, stated it's associated with the 300Tdi. The same part is now associated with the Td5 with a different part number. Something none of the parts suppliers or diagrams show is that it has superseded to ANR5636.
You might want to also look at part KKU000710 to replace ANR3225.
I was able to get mine from LRdirect where at the time RN would have to order it from LR with a 3 week lead time.
Hope that helps
 

·
Registered
1986 110 ex Dutch marines
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I’m converting my 300tdi to lt77 to r380.
just not happy with having the engine sitting further back.
so I’m slowly getting all the parts. I already bought the r380 crossmember so I will only need part 5 then? Is the other the same as the lt77?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,057 Posts
Do you have a 300TDI with an LT77? That is rather rare...and they would have used the LT77 fly wheel housing and it would be mounted in the 200TDI engine location. So if you are converting it to the R380, you would have to use the Stumpy R380 and your engine remains in the same place, if I am correct--this also retains the original 200TDI mounting locations and the LT230 mounting location. If you change to the 300TDI versions of the R380/LT230 mounts, then your engine will be pushed forward, you use the regular long bellhousing R380, and you will need to cut off the 200TDI engine mounts and weld in totally different 300TDI engine mounts in a new location.

I believe I have that all correct, but please chime in if I missed something...
 

·
Registered
1986 110 ex Dutch marines
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No it started life as a 2,5na lt77. Then I added the 300tdi drove with it for a couple years. And decided that I wasn’t happy with the result.
now converting it this winter to the r380 diesel stock position. It’s still a driving vehicle and just gathering parts for the swap.
already have the r380 and bell housing. New clutch and r380 crossmember.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,702 Posts
It would have been simpler to use a short bellhousing R380 as you would not need to change anything.

With the long bellhousing, you also need a new transmission tunnel, floors and driveshafts and move the engine forward.
 

·
Registered
1986 110 ex Dutch marines
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes I agree. But moving the engine forward is exactly what I want. I didn’t like not being able to use factory parts. The left side is so cluttered with having to run the air intake thru there. Just wasn’t happy with the result.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
698 Posts
... I already bought the r380 crossmember so I will only need part 5 then? Is the other the same as the lt77?
Not sure if this was directed to me but you will need KKKU000710 as it is the factory part for the R380. I didn't need to buy one only because the 300Tdi I bought came with an R380 and LT230. Part ANR3225 (KKKU000710) was already attached to the R380 when I got it, the other part was not included and therefore required for the install.
My set up still has the LT77 tunnel, the engine is about 1" further back than stock location. I did have to notch out the passenger floor about 0.75" to accommodate the transfer case shifter, the notch is covered by the tunnel.
I can not confirm if the driveshaft is for an LT77 or R380 (to Red's point). The truck, like yours, is an ex-MoD but had an R380 installed by the MoD. I'm assuming it needed a new tranny later in it's life and at that point they were all in on the Wolf trucks and only had R380's as spares? Not sure how to tell which driveshafts I have but the rear shaft does not seem "extended" at it's sleeved section to accommodate the engine being further forward than the 2.5NA stock position (hope that made sense).
The truck drives amazingly well, with it's current set up. I do consider swapping the tunnel and floor panels next Spring but that would also mean replacing the heavy duty acoustic mat that was installed as part of the Tithonus project. The military had gray mats installed and black is the only color currently available, replacing that mat would be the most expensive part of my proposed project.
Happy to take pics of anything if you want/need.
I'm 100% understand wanting everything to be a "factory" as possible. I like the idea of knowing that stock parts will replace any part that might fail and that having things cobbled together creates problems in the future. My goal is to have the 110 feel like it rolled off the factory floor and to "spec", not like it had someone from the military motor pool making the truck work "by any means necessary".
 

·
Registered
1986 110 ex Dutch marines
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Appreciate the write up. And appreciate the part numbers. It gives me something to look for. I’m going to get the 380 tunnel just so I don’t run into clearance issues.
afterwards I’ll sell off all the extra parts to recoup some of the cost.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top