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Discussion Starter #1
Mine is leaking like a sieve now that it’s cold. Anyone ever do this in situ? Looks doable.
 

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To protect the seals's lip from the splined shaft ...



... you need a little helper ...



... and a setting die.



Good luck.

 
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I have not done in place but doable?, I used a thin piece of brass shim stock cut to the dia of the shaft (make sure no burrs) warm the seal up a bit and oil and slide in past the splines. find a bit of pipe to push (hammer) the rest of the way in.

If you do drop the box replace the output as well, Murphy's Law
 
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when install valve stem seals there is a similar issue. I just wrap the valve in electrical tape or slide a drinking straw over it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks all. I hadn’t thought about protecting it from the splines during installation. Very good advice.
 

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The seal is held in place with a snap ring. I don't know how you're gonna get that out with the box in place, let alone replacing the seal and installing the snap ring and washer. Pulling the steering box is a twenty minute job.
The splines are smaller than the shaft so you don't need to fool with protecting the seal.
If it's leaking there, chances are that the shaft is worn where the seal rides. That's a death sentence as the repair part costs more than another steering box.
I think your best bet is to get it on the workbench and do a complete seal replacement (overhaul). It isn't a particularly difficult job. The seal kit will come with more seals than you need for your Adwest box. Overhaul instructions are in the manual and there a couple youtube videos
I can loan you the pitman arm puller if you want to try
 

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Well, a lot of issues may happen when trying it. And you'll need a bunch of very special tools. Have a look at my experances at this site: Sorry about the language
 
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Discussion Starter #9
The splines are smaller than the shaft so you don't need to fool with protecting the seal....I can loan you the pitman arm puller if you want to try
Thanks Bill. You’re probably right, but I’m gonna give it a shot in situ just in case I can pull it off. Very kind of you to offer to borrow the specialized tool. If I wind up having to overhaul the box, I might take you up on that. I really appreciate it as well as the insights.
 

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Dang, Arlo! Your steering box was quite rusty! Not sure I would have tried to save one that bad. I rebuild two of these over the last 6 months. Only special tool I used is the pitman puller. Everything else you can do with regular tools. Well, the input shaft bearing adjuster I get loose with a tool my buddy Rob made from a big nut with a pipe bung welded into the middle so that a 1/2 inch rachet fits in it. Prolly like $5 worth of stuf went into that. Really easy to make one by using epoxy putty too. Knead together as much as you need to fill the cavity, push a 1/2 inch rachet extension into it to form a drive hole and let it set up. After it sets up pop it out of the cavity and you've got a tool you can use a thousand times over.
Anyway, just sayin there's ways if you're creative.
Those two things are the only real challenge. You'll need a really good snap ring plier, your metric allen wrenches, 3/16th round punch, hammer, metric sockets, big flat screwdriver to use as prybar and for the side adjuster slot, and adjustable wrench.
The book shows some dial gauge for measuring the resistance when setting the adjustments. I guess you'd need that for the first time you ever rebuild one but once you know how it's supposed to feel you don't really need those again. Vise grip and a fishing scale is all you need.
 

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Dang, Arlo! Your steering box was quite rusty!
Hi Bill!
It hasn't been mine. :)

Leaking stearing boxes sometimes belonging of leaking hoses.
 
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