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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Was out for a drive, heard and odd clunk when making a sharp 90 degree turn (not sure if this related). About 10 min later in a parking lot while moving straight ahead lost all forward propulsion. No loud clunks or big bangs. Engine running fine, clutch feels normal, transmission shifting normal.

Clutch feels like it is actuating normal. When I release the clutch (pedal up) I hear some kind of additional whirling noise but nothing significant mechanically. Still good smooth pedal feel. Seems like it is still working.
Shifting gears all seem to work fine, same results in all gears including reverse. No vehicle movement.
Moving dif lock to high/low locked or unlocked doesn’t seem to make any difference Diflock shifting seems normal (take a little clutch and gear to get dif lock low engaged but no vehicle movement). I should note that my diflock light has alway been flaky but moving between lock and unlocked and high and low you can certainly feel it engage in the distinct gears.

With that background here is where I think the issue is heading. My quick review before the tow truck was that in 1st gear, clutch released, either locked or unlocked the front driveshaft is spinning and resulting in no movement. I also noticed a lot of backlash in the front driveshaft (1/16th a turn), I don’t ever recall that much backlash. My brain can’t wrap around if this is a transfer case or front diff issue? Or both?

I’ve got to get it back to the garage and dig deeper but looking for the expert wisdom to get me pointed in the right direction.

The details. 1994 110 RHD 200TDI LT77 trans.

Thanks as always.
 

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if your center diff is locked and still only the front driveshaft is spinning then your not locking your center diff. but it sounds like either a CV or Drive flange let go
 

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Your front axle is broken and your center diff lock is not working.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. I’ll dig into the front axle this weekend and see what I can find.

I suppose the diflock not working is a secondary issue. But that one also bugs me since it feels like it is engaging in the locked position. I’ll tackle that issue afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You fellas are right as usual. After removing the tunnel I got a socket on the lock / unlock shaft and could get the dif lock actually locked, thus returning some vehicle movement. Still no light though. The flanges looked ok, but I didn’t get enough time to get the axle shafts out.

Next step is to pull the axle shafts, confirm no issue with them and the flange and then get the dif out to see the damage.
 

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Remove the diff fill plug. Jack a front wheel and spin. Look inside. The broken side will not spin the diff.

Usually it is the short side halfshafts and broken at the diff end splines for early axles. Late axles are at the CV end of the shaft or the CV itself.
 
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Twice in the many years of working on Rovers, have experienced a stuck clutch, where the clutch gets stuck in a released mode that prevents the vehicle from moving.
First step to remedy is removing the slave cylinder to let the clutch return before investigating further.
 

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So you can figure out what is broken by putting it on Jack stands. If you are getting movement with diff lock engaged, it’s one axle or the other (very small chance it is the diff in the transfer case). So with it on Jack stands, which axle spins? If the front was spinning and you had no drive when the diff was unlocked, it’s the front axle and probably a CV or broken shaft.
 

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Twice in the many years of working on Rovers, have experienced a stuck clutch, where the clutch gets stuck in a released mode that prevents the vehicle from moving.
First step to remedy is removing the slave cylinder to let the clutch return before investigating further.
It is not a stuck clutch. The front propshaft spins with the center diff unlocked.

So you can figure out what is broken by putting it on Jack stands. If you are getting movement with diff lock engaged, it’s one axle or the other (very small chance it is the diff in the transfer case). So with it on Jack stands, which axle spins? If the front was spinning and you had no drive when the diff was unlocked, it’s the front axle and probably a CV or broken shaft.
The front propshaft spins. This was all explained in the first post.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey folks,

good input as usual. It was the RH side CV that had failed.

I’ve had a good time tearing it down and decided to do both half shafts and swivels.
The LH side is back together and seems fine.
RH side is lacking angular range, there seems to be binding or interference in the CV/swivel that is significantly limiting the ability to turn/steer full angle.

here is a pick showing the now “full” travel, you can see how far the limit bolt is from the swivel flange. Similar limited angle when turned the other way. I also notice it seems like the shaft is too far in towards the diff since the snap ring groove isn’t extending past the flange. I have a bolt in the end but no luck pulling it out.
what could I have screwed up? Is it possible to have pushed it too far into the diff?
thanks again!
D8E41A8F-2BD4-4662-9E46-9DCCE5254A17.jpeg
 

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You do not have the CV fully seated in the stub axle. You probably need to pull the stub axle to see why it can’t come out adequately.

When you assemble, it is critical to hold the CV out so that it does not go inwards and fall off of the bearing.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the tip. I had ordered complete half shaft with CV and done a cursory comparison, all looked right. After your comment I whacked the CV off and found I have the wrong shaft. What came out was the shaft that requires a spacer ring between shaft and CV. What I put in and ordered wrong was the later version without the spacer.
I’m a little confused since based on my chassis, LA early build 1994, I thought I got the right one. But I am prone to mistakes in that regard...

I suppose the LH is also wrong but didn’t seem to manifest in the same problem. I’ll swap that one out too.

old (correct) on bottom, spacer already taken off. New (wrong) on top.
Rust on old is a good clue as to original CV failure too...
8D5CFF65-6D6A-4C84-9577-ED68BC0EBB8F.jpeg
 

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I don’t think that is your issue. I’m talking about where the CV sits on a bearing inside of the stub axle.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks. I see your point. In this case the two half shafts are interchangeable? Newer one without spacer and old with spacer?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I keep learning a bit more. Slow learner...

it appears the new stub axle, which I pressed in the seal, bearings and thrust ring doesn’t fit onto the new cv output shaft (or the old one). I messed with the new and old parts and the new stub axles is the odd one out.

possible I got the wrong part or maybe damaged it during insert?

old and new sub axels. Seem to be the same
New stub not fitting on the cv output ( this is obviously the old one but the new one behaves the same
Old stub fitting fine on cv output and the old stub also fits fine on the new one and fixes the cv bind issue ( I don’t want to use the old as the seal is shot)
C44D54E8-B956-4131-93ED-8559F8AE4C45.jpeg
738D0199-E05A-4F8B-BA1B-37833355554E.jpeg
4CA16CCA-E76A-466B-86D3-7E0CD68EE553.jpeg
 

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Had a similar issue replacing a cv joint and stub axle on my 91 100 200Tdi. Old shaft fit through the new stub axle assembly just fine (as well as the old stub axle, obviously) as well as going through the new stub axle. But, new cv and shaft would bind up in the new stub axle. If I remember correctly ended up using a Dremel and fine emery cloth to open up the new bronze bushing that I had pressed into the new stub axle. Seemed to be just a tolerance issue with the new parts, but a real pain. Figured mine out after assembling everything and realizing that the cv would lock up when I tightened the stub axle onto the hub assembly.


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He has the later style with needle bearings. You can’t dremel those out. Make sure all of the needles are seated.
 
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