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Discussion Starter #1
It was 90 today and my cabin interior was super hot. I ran a infrared thermometer I was getting 123-140 on the bottom of cubby box and seat Rails any suggestions on how to stop the transfer of heat. I’ll try dynamat this weekend
chris
 

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Wrap the exhaust, undercarriage heat shields and a lot of dynamat. My 90 is bearable bc it’s a 97 with carpet/padding but if I were to do something I’d start with wrapping the exhaust pipes from manifold to past the seat box and heat shield the cats.
 

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2.5NA AND LT77
Weird. It should not be hot. Is there any interior trim or is this a bare metal ex-MOD truck? You really need to provide a lot of details if you want help.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just redid the headliner and the interior side trim. I do know that this LR90 is a county by its front seats they have a hard plastic shell on the back of them. I tried to recover the seats and ran into this problem. I called rovers north and them sent pics they said it was a early county style seats. the VIN shows it is a station wagon, there is no carpet under the seats or cubby box ....its shear metal..
 

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I have a 2.5NA was out yesterday in the 90 degree heat and no issues with the cabin interior getting to hot ,Ive lined the boxes below the seats but that’s it.
 

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It was 90 today and my cabin interior was super hot. I ran a infrared thermometer I was getting 123-140 on the bottom of cubby box and seat Rails any suggestions on how to stop the transfer of heat. I’ll try dynamat this weekend
chris
Not to derail your thread, but I’ve become a big fan of using a infrared thermometer to monitor my drivetrain on longer drives. Any chance some else is doing the same? It would be interesting to compare temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I had the Infrared thermometer to look at my engine Temps initially. I did the upper radiator hose that was 156 the exhaust manifold was 231 and tailpipe temps were 161. ( I’ll recheck it this afternoon) I did this because my temp guage was running just below and at the 1/2 way mark. I am not running a fan shroud shroud or fan. I do have a puller electric fan on the radiator and that’s is manually controlled I have turned it once when I hit the beach and got into the sugar sand. I was lazy and did not drop tire pressures like I should have. the truck seems to to do well from that stand point. I have also decided to that I’m going to do the 250 straight 6 conversion the LR90 is great it’s the lack of power that is driving me to do this. I pulled out into traffic a couple weeks ago and I almost got rear ended even though I gave myself a lot of room to pull out..the truck jammed on his horn and brakes he passed me and flipped me off. I decided at that moment I needed to do something. The 200tdi didn’t have the power I was looking for. I found the 6cyl conversion and I am moving forward I’ll keep group posted as this proceeds
 

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The six banger will throw more heat for sure but swapping engines will give you the opportunity to do things right. These trucks weren’t built for our standards today, nor did we have 20xx vehicles as comparables. Laying dynamat inside is okay but shielding from the heat is much more effective. While the engine is out you can cover the engine side of the bulkhead with a heat shielding product (even bead liner works) that also will reduce vibrations which is an added bonus. I’d still suggest wrapping the exhaust pipes that run at least under the seat box. Radiating heat is not our friend.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll give that a go this weekend, I've never had to wrap the exhaust before, would I get that at any auto parts store
(hopefully)
 

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I consider the heat wrap a last resort. As noted above actual heat shielding is way more effective. The perforated aluminum metal heat shield that you see all over vehicles today can be purchased by the foot on Amazon
 

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You don't want to ever wrap exhaust other than a downpipe. The wrap gets wet and will corrode the pipes very quickly. If you want something below the vehicle, you should install heat shields.

But...there is something wrong with your truck. I've driven lots of 2.5NA Defenders, most ex-MOD with no interior and not seen this issue.The exhaust is not (should not) be near the cubby box. That sounds more like a hot gearbox.

First I would make sure you are not leaking air in from that area. Seal everything up. Keep the heater fan on to prevent low pressure in the cab.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think your right Super Moderator the exhaust is where it is supposed to be. the gear box and drive components are right there under the cubby and seats, I've been driving back forth from Wilmington NC to Morehead city NC its about 96 miles and 2 hours of highway driving and I have been running the vehicle at no more than 60mph. temps here have been in the mid 90's any suggestions or ideas on how to cool a hot gear box (maybe transmission oil cooler)
 

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I think your right Super Moderator the exhaust is where it is supposed to be. the gear box and drive components are right there under the cubby and seats, I've been driving back forth from Wilmington NC to Morehead city NC its about 96 miles and 2 hours of highway driving and I have been running the vehicle at no more than 60mph. temps here have been in the mid 90's any suggestions or ideas on how to cool a hot gear box (maybe transmission oil cooler)
I am in the same boat, my testing showed results in my gearbox throwing off the most heat. It was reading a max of 161 degrees during a 1-hour drive, cruising at 65 or so.
 

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What transfer case ratio? What fluids are you using?

My guess is that you are leaking air in. The hot air from the engine runs under there and if there is a leak and you are negative pressure, it runs inside. Seal things up and open the bulkhead vents.

Then cover it up with some insulation. You can buy kits or do something yourself.
 
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