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On my install I noticed the lower dash was getting frosty cold, not good. So I removed the lower dash and made pipework out of black water pipe (thinner wall) and insulated it as best I could and made the defrost ducts to be open or closed, no more frosty lower dash. Using a meat thermometer, the RF temp gun is useless here, and have a reading of 54f, 85f ambient,at all ducts.
I've also insulated the return hose to the compressor (no, I don't want to debate this), I haven't had the opportunity to evaluate this as it has not been too hot here.

This is EXACTLY what im talking about. 54f unfortunately isnt great

nice to see someone does not think im insane
 

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My question stems from how super hot the bulkhead and lower dash get. This is where the air flows on early trucks prior to hitting the vents. what is your suggestion to making this intense heat less of an issue ?
LiquidMoose has shared one option.... Nice take on this point.

The issue is that the lower dash basically works as an air chamber to hold the hot/cold air before it is released out via the vents. The trouble is, early trucks didn't really have any vents other than foot or demist so the air get's trapped and temperature builds up in the lower dash. The MOD blower puts out 319cfm of air on max speed and the Defender dash vents are only small. You have to add more outlets.

Cutting two holes in the top of the lower dash and then placing a couple of pipes on a center panel gives you two additional facial vents.
449872


449871


We also supply improved lower footwell vents that are directional so can be pointed up or down depending on whether you need AC or Heat.

The system should bring the ducted temp down to 36'f unless the thermostat is dialled back a bit.

Jonathan
 

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Here's my non-MUD panel setup...
pic 10.jpg

Because of the re-plumbing of the lower dash the foot well vents were eliminated, which is
unfortunate as they were a nice touch. The upside is by opening the defrost vents, I'm amazed at the amount of cold air wafting around head height. Inexplicably, the refrigerant has completely leaked from the system, so hopefully when it has been recharged I'll see that 36f number! pic 10.jpg
 

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I really like that set-up. Nice to see how you've added the vents. Keeps it all stock looking. (y)

Nitrogen pressure test for leaks before recharging so that you can identify any joints that need new seals. No point adding and losing again.

Then 600g of R134a give or take 5%

Jonathan
 

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LiquidMoose has shared one option.... Nice take on this point.

The issue is that the lower dash basically works as an air chamber to hold the hot/cold air before it is released out via the vents. The trouble is, early trucks didn't really have any vents other than foot or demist so the air get's trapped and temperature builds up in the lower dash. The MOD blower puts out 319cfm of air on max speed and the Defender dash vents are only small. You have to add more outlets.

Cutting two holes in the top of the lower dash and then placing a couple of pipes on a center panel gives you two additional facial vents.
View attachment 449872

View attachment 449871

We also supply improved lower footwell vents that are directional so can be pointed up or down depending on whether you need AC or Heat.

The system should bring the ducted temp down to 36'f unless the thermostat is dialled back a bit.

Jonathan
Thanks Jonathan,
I just placed my order and am mulling over my vent options (I'm going with a Mud console too).
I have ordered some swivel lower vents, but I'll need more at the face level.
What vents are those in that picture?
 

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Thanks Jonathan,
I just placed my order and am mulling over my vent options (I'm going with a Mud console too).
I have ordered some swivel lower vents, but I'll need more at the face level.
What vents are those in that picture?
The ones we use for the Mud console are small 50mm open/close/rotate vents, which have corresponding pipe and then two metal pipe connectrs that attach to the top of the airbox.

They're about $50 as a set.

You just have to cut a couple of outlet holes on top of the lower dash.
 
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