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The search function turned up tons of old threads but they all seemed to fizzle out with few actual installs photos or reviews of those that have installed and used here in the US.

Looking at purchasing defender at moment that is lacking AC which is a must here in North Carolina. Anyone have strong opinion on Ministry of Defender unit vs the Logan cool air. Leaning towards ministry of defender unit as a dash upgrade can occur at once. However I also read the Logan units work great but have proprietary circuit boards which can be pain to troubleshoot when issue arises.

Ideally someone who has installed a ministry of defender in 300 tdi lhd would chime in with review.
 

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I recently completed an install of the MOD A/C. I have a 1989 110, 200 tdi, heavily tinted windows (60%?), fairly well insulated foot wells,doors and roof with the sunroof completely masked off. I live in Northern Ca, (low RH) and have only experienced a couple of 90 degree days to test it out. I travel solo, no other metabolizing entities.

The unit preformed as I expected, it's okay, it takes the edge off. I didn't expect meat locker type temps, in comparison (the only other car I have with A/C) a 2007 Prius (factory tinted windows) is a meat locker.

Using a IR temp gun at the outlets, the temp is 62 degrees, seems low, but I know next to nothing about A/C.

If I remember correctly (doubtful) the Prius read 45 degrees or so.

I'm experimenting with a thermal curtain between the front seats and rear cargo area, so far it seems promising but need higher ambient temps to confirm.

The HVAC unit that mounts on the bulkhead is impressively well made and fitted perfectly, the other components, condenser, drier bottle and hoses are off-the-self stuff and not proprietary.

I may be giving up cooling efficiency to avoid the knee banging alternative but from what I've read, the other units aren't much better, but I have no first hand experience with them.
 

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I recently completed an install of the MOD A/C. I have a 1989 110, 200 tdi, heavily tinted windows (60%?), fairly well insulated foot wells,doors and roof with the sunroof completely masked off. I live in Northern Ca, (low RH) and have only experienced a couple of 90 degree days to test it out. I travel solo, no other metabolizing entities.

The unit preformed as I expected, it's okay, it takes the edge off. I didn't expect meat locker type temps, in comparison (the only other car I have with A/C) a 2007 Prius (factory tinted windows) is a meat locker.

Using a IR temp gun at the outlets, the temp is 62 degrees, seems low, but I know next to nothing about A/C.

If I remember correctly (doubtful) the Prius read 45 degrees or so.

I'm experimenting with a thermal curtain between the front seats and rear cargo area, so far it seems promising but need higher ambient temps to confirm.

The HVAC unit that mounts on the bulkhead is impressively well made and fitted perfectly, the other components, condenser, drier bottle and hoses are off-the-self stuff and not proprietary.

I may be giving up cooling efficiency to avoid the knee banging alternative but from what I've read, the other units aren't much better, but I have no first hand experience with them.
I still haven't seen how the ducting works on a TDI truck ...does it route the cold air through the bulkhead like the heater system did ?
 

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I still haven't seen how the ducting works on a TDI truck ...does it route the cold air through the bulkhead like the heater system did ?
Yes, the MOD HVAC box does both heating and cooling going through the existing plenum. That plenum has also been insulated.
 

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That's what I thought . Probably why the temps aren't stellar. That sheet metal gets super hot
 

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WOW, so I was considering going with a MOD Unit as well. I run the same A/C system as the 93 NAS 110. My Temp out of the Dash Vents when it is at or below 90F and high humidity is about 57F to 61F. Now that it is 100F out side and Heat index of 110+ I only achieve about 62-63F. Still not bad. Long run switching to the MOD unit would not help my situation at all. Thanks for the info!
 

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I was not impressed with the MOD unit, but have never installed on, so my evaluation is based on how I think it will work and now it actually works. Yes it is more compact, but am of the opinion this comes at a cost because of the limited venting and air flow. I hope they have a way to stop the warm air from circulating through the heater box all the time and only circulate on demand.
It just looks like the amount of air circulating would be greatly limited by the number of small vents and how the air is routed.
 

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There is a cable operated ball valve on the input hose at the heater box and a one-way valve on the output hose, works well.
 

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There is a cable operated ball valve on the input hose at the heater box and a one-way valve on the output hose, works well.
How do you operate them?
 

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You mentioned cable in post 10.
I should have been more specific in 11, do you use the standard heater controls or a separate lever to operate the cable?
 

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I wonder if the issue of hot bulkhead could be fixed by running insulated hoses from the unit output in the bulkhead to the vents. It's the lower dash that gets hot af
 

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You mentioned cable in post 10.
I should have been more specific in 11, do you use the standard heater controls or a separate lever to operate the cable?
The kit includes a cable for the ball valve but I elected to use one of the standard heater control cables, specifically the one that is associated with the blue/red arrows, not hard to do.
 

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Just as an update on this, I'm the guy responsible for the design and manufacture of the MOD AC unit here in the UK. :)

Firslty, a correction to an above post: The hot water to our heater core does not circulate constantly (like it does in the OEM Defender heater box) There is a valve operated from the dash that turns the hot water flow on and off. We have never sold any units where the hot water flows into the core at al times. As it's a dual-core system, then any heat in the box would compromise the AC. The heater section is 13000btu rating, with the AC rated at 10500btu, so the heater would always win.

So water flow into the core has always been controlled or there's no AC.

The only main issue we've had is where a badly adjusted water valve cable would keep the valve itself slightly open, allowing hot water in, or we would see some heat creep back along the lower outlet pipe. We now supply a non-return check valve for the lower heater pipe, so as long as the top valve is closed then there is zero heat in the core and the AC works perfectly.

Operating range for the AC is between 36 - 46'f on Summer setting.

Jonathan
 

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Insulate the bulkhead to reduce the heat. What ever you buy, don't forget the ability to get spare parts. I've thought about adding vintage air set up but I'm trending towards a soft top set up....
 

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Just as an update on this, I'm the guy responsible for the design and manufacture of the MOD AC unit here in the UK. :)

Firslty, a correction to an above post: The hot water to our heater core does not circulate constantly (like it does in the OEM Defender heater box) There is a valve operated from the dash that turns the hot water flow on and off. We have never sold any units where the hot water flows into the core at al times. As it's a dual-core system, then any heat in the box would compromise the AC. The heater section is 13000btu rating, with the AC rated at 10500btu, so the heater would always win.

So water flow into the core has always been controlled or there's no AC.

The only main issue we've had is where a badly adjusted water valve cable would keep the valve itself slightly open, allowing hot water in, or we would see some heat creep back along the lower outlet pipe. We now supply a non-return check valve for the lower heater pipe, so as long as the top valve is closed then there is zero heat in the core and the AC works perfectly.

Operating range for the AC is between 36 - 46'f on Summer setting.

Jonathan

this is great info. My question stems from how super hot the bulkhead and lower dash get. This is where the air flows on early trucks prior to hitting the vents. what is your suggestion to making this intense heat less of an issue ?
 

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On my install I noticed the lower dash was getting frosty cold, not good. So I removed the lower dash and made pipework out of black water pipe (thinner wall) and insulated it as best I could and made the defrost ducts to be open or closed, no more frosty lower dash. Using a meat thermometer, the RF temp gun is useless here, and have a reading of 54f, 85f ambient,at all ducts.
I've also insulated the return hose to the compressor (no, I don't want to debate this), I haven't had the opportunity to evaluate this as it has not been too hot here.
 

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