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Yes these would bolt the engine to your existing frame mounts.
You would need the rest of the kit of which these mounts are components.
Cool - I was kinda worried about getting a new galvy frame and then having to cut and weld new mounts. We've been PM'ing about the kit. Once my white truck is sold I'll have some funds to get one. Driving with the 2.5 for a few days I think that OM617 will be a nice move.

One more question:
How does the OM617 work with LHD? I would guess there is room for the steering components being that those motors were in many LHD vehicles. But wanted to know if any special mods had to take place. Thanks
 

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Are the kits for sale yet? Do you have a website or normal contact info. The topic comes up and I try to point people in your direction, but finding information is not the easiest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
RHD or LHD - Mox Nix.

How does the OM617 work with LHD? Thanks
No issues that I know of.
One of the prototype fits into a 1985 LHD 110 fit fine.

------ Follow up post added July 6th, 2013 10:11 AM ------

Are the kits for sale yet? Do you have a website or normal contact info. The topic comes up and I try to point people in your direction, but finding information is not the easiest.
The web site is not up yet, but kits are available and are being sold and shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
Motor Mounts

Lots of people have been sending messages asking if the large Mercedes hydraulic filled motor mounts I use will work with the 200TDI in a chassis that originally has a 2.25 or a 2.5.

These custom mounts are for the Mercedes OM617 and do not work with a 200TDI.
They bolt The OM617 to the 90 or 110 frame that originally had a 2.25 or 2.5.

Would like to make the mounts for the 200TDI, but am just to busy right now, perhaps this winter will have some time.

When installing the 200TDI in a LHD 90 or 110, I always installed 300TDI manifolds, but this brings the front pipe very close to the LH motor mount. Then would angle a custom front pipe away from the motor mount to provide the maximum clearance possible to help keep the mount from burning up... This may help some of our members who have this same dilemma.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Very good performance... but it came later!

Our OM617 now performs very well and is fast.
With a 1.4 T-case will go over 80 MPH on the flat and pulls away quicker than our 300TDI 110.

History and background:
I have talked to people who are getting a lot more power out of the OM617 with only adding an intercooler and slightly increasing boost and fuel.

When we first got this 110, it was powered by a 2.5 petrol (now gone).
It ran at 70 MPH and then would slow down to under 50.
Originally attributed it to the carb and after replacing with new had the same issue.
Shortly afterwards pulled the 2.5 petrol and later found that it had a small fuel filter on the RH side of the lowest point of the bulkhead near the frame.
Installed the OM617, but always thought it should have had more performance with the ntercooler and higher boost.
So swapped the T-case to a 1.2 and only used 5th gear on down hill runs.
Switched to a 1.4 T-case and it was better, but not where I thought it should be with the intercooler and increased boost.
This Tuesday the engine slowed on the interstate until it finally stopped with fuel starvation symptoms.
Got it into the shop and pulled the fuel line to the IP and only had a splash of fuel delivery.
Put it on the lift, disconnected the fuel feed from the tank and sourced the feed from a fresh
can of diesel. The fuel delivery was more than adequate, so all along there were fuel blockage issues within the tank.
Pulled the tank and replaced it with a new one and the fuel delivery is now very good.
Engine runs smoother and is very fast, both off the line and on the highway.
The difference is incredible compared to when some of you drove it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Not sure yet...

So what was it dirt on old tank? Blockage in pick up?
Haven't opened the old tank up yet to look for the culprit.
Did disassemble the sedimentator and it had and about 1/2" of rust and other trash that looked like small pieces of dead leaves. Pulled the filter and it looked new, so didn't replace it.
Will report back when the investigation is complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
So how much the hole kit costs and what is included?:grin
You can PM for pricing.
You realize the kits fit a defender or a series IIA, III.
We do NOT have kits for Discos or Range Rovers.
 
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This Tuesday the engine slowed on the interstate until it finally stopped with fuel starvation symptoms.
Got it into the shop and pulled the fuel line to the IP and only had a splash of fuel delivery.
Put it on the lift, disconnected the fuel feed from the tank and sourced the feed from a fresh
can of diesel. The fuel delivery was more than adequate, so all along there were fuel blockage issues within the tank.
Pulled the tank and replaced it with a new one and the fuel delivery is now very good.
Engine runs smoother and is very fast, both off the line and on the highway.
The difference is incredible compared to when some of you drove it.
Hey I'm having the same issue with my OM617 swap in my Disco. You think it could be the same problem. If I'm at half a tank and hard on the pedal or going up hill it just cuts the fuel off and dies.
I'm going to remove the disco inline filter and do away with it as I don't think its needed.
Then do a full diesel purge and with new filters and hope that works.
So you just pull the fuel line going to the IP and cranked it over to test the flow?
Cheers.

PS thanks for the VERY first adaptor by the way, still going strong : )
 

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Hey I'm having the same issue with my OM617 swap in my Disco. You think it could be the same problem. If I'm at half a tank and hard on the pedal or going up hill it just cuts the fuel off and dies.
I'm going to remove the disco inline filter and do away with it as I don't think its needed.
Then do a full diesel purge and with new filters and hope that works.
So you just pull the fuel line going to the IP and cranked it over to test the flow?
Cheers.

PS thanks for the VERY first adaptor by the way, still going strong : )
If you are still using the petrol fuel filter then that will very likely be your problem. A petrol filter is not designed to flow diesel. I rememeber when Robert's Isuzu powered RR was starving for fuel. He isolated the issue to the same filter. After it was removed the diesel stavation disappeared and the performance jumped measurably.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
Manual shifting your auto??? Gasoline fuel filter???

Glad to hear, look like I need to pull the petrol filter ASAP and hope this solves my issues .
Thanks.
As Mark suggests, the small gasoline filter native to the Rover V8 is NOT compatible with diesel.
We have a member here named Dennis that swears up and down that his V8 fuel filter works great. Then you find out he doesn't put any real mileage on his ride. Get rid of the small V8 filter.

Franko for reliability, you need a sedimenter, then a 12V fuel pump (Airtex E8012S), then the fuel filter. We have 1 sedimenter left for $119 if you want one. Shipping not included.

I read on Pirate where you are shifting your transmission manually. In order for it to shift correctly, you need a torque converter with a 2300 RPM stall speed and the diesel transmission governor with your kick down linkage adjusted properly (on the slack side). Shifting manually is a bad idea. With these changes, it will shift perfectly with you doing nothing more than engaging "D".
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
Soon if I can get the other 100 things done that are blocking me.
The ZF in Tyler's Isuzu Turbo Diesel 93 LWB RR developed a leak and was run dry.
Spent last weekend swapping it out.
Tyler drove the OM617 Powered 110 up to Kings Point a few weeks ago and just got back early this morning.
He put about 900 miles on it and said it never missed a beat.

We're wrapping up some loose ends so he can drive it back in the morning and drop me off at the airport on the way back to NY. Am flying to Anchorage and then on to Kenai for a week.
We are going after salmon and hopefully some halibut like th1s:

http://www.afsc.noaa.gov/race/behavioral/halibut_fbe.htm

Then have to put a clutch in a 300TDI 110 when I get back and have to finish and ship a 2.5 GM engine conversion for a Series IIA.
 

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I read on Pirate where you are shifting your transmission manually. In order for it to shift correctly, you need a torque converter with a 2300 RPM stall speed and the diesel transmission governor with your kick down linkage adjusted properly (on the slack side). Shifting manually is a bad idea. With these changes, it will shift perfectly with you doing nothing more than engaging "D".
Why is shifting through 1,2,3 Drive a bad thing? Will it wear out my trans faster that way?
Anyway I'll look into the torque converter see if I can find one.
Where can I find a diesel trans governor ?

Cheers
 
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