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Rack moves freely but wants to stay in the start position. This means lots of fuel and wants to run away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #342 · (Edited)
Let me know how the motor mount was trimmed, so it can be incorporated into the stock kit.

That looks like a nice unit.
Looks like an external ALDA.
 

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Let me know how the motor mount was trimmed, so it can be incorporated into the stock kit. That looks like a nice unit. looks like an external ALDA.
I should have had them take a pic but they aren't very modern day tech savvy.

I'll grab a pic when I open up the governor plate to look for any loose items. If that doesn't solve it I'll pull this M pump out and put the MW back in. I bought some MW pump injector lines so it will make it a little easier.

And yes external ALDA - that is what needed clearance
 

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Discussion Starter · #345 ·
I should have had them take a pic but they aren't very modern day tech savvy.

I'll grab a pic when I open up the governor plate to look for any loose items. If that doesn't solve it I'll pull this M pump out and put the MW back in. I bought some MW pump injector lines so it will make it a little easier.

And yes external ALDA - that is what needed clearance
That's what I thought.
When HH visited, he had a similar setup, but he was rolling coal big time.
He had loads of power... it was quick.
I wish someone would do a 6.5 mm setup.
That would put us between 170 and 200 HP with reasonable economy.
I've been talking to Dieselmeken in Sweden about a 6.5 mm M-IP, but so far no joy.

Have also talked to people who have modified the MW-IP with larger plungers, but it is suppose to be really complicated to adjust where the M-IP is much much simpler (so have been told).



That install looks great Don. Looking forward to seeing/hearing it one day.
X2
 

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That's what I thought. When HH visited, he had a similar setup, but he was rolling coal big time. He had loads of power... it was quick. I wish someone would do a 6.5 mm setup. That would put us between 170 and 200 HP with reasonable economy. I've been talking to Dieselmeken in Sweden about a 6.5 mm M-IP, but so far no joy. Have also talked to people who have modified the MW-IP with larger plungers, but it is suppose to be really complicated to adjust where the M-IP is much much simpler (so have been told). X2
Mine was rolling coal this past weekend. Kind of a funny side story was my youngest and me going to the diesel truck show in Englishtown (about 30 minutes away). I would give it some throttle in the first couple of gears while going thru the lot - must have had some folks scratching there heads. Had a huge work truck (crane type back with a chassis/can I have never seen before) give me huge props. Meanwhile his rig was the coolest looking of all the big trucks there.

While that was fun and all I agree with you on having a mid size plunger setup for all around use. The M pump seems great but if the MW pump could be used I think it would be easier all around.

Hope I can get down and see you and Clay with this rig someday. Maybe I'll have it all dialed in for the spring events.
 

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hi
I have a Defender 110 with a 300 TDI with a R380 and LT230,
I have found 2 X OM603 Mercedes engine, 1987
Is your transplant kit will work for this engine, or its only for the OM617
If so, do you still have it available
And how much do you charge for the kit,
Do you have any recommendation

Can I contact you by phone
(514) 953-3218
Thanks
Claude
Claude... I have two extra OM617s on a little trailer out here in Phoenix. One gets stuck when turning it by hand (prior to even testing it to see if it runs).

The second one runs but is losing compression in 3 cylinders.

Both have most of the ancillaries.
 

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I got bored on a drive today and tested 0-60 time as a benchmark. I think the power is more than sufficient to avoid being a hazard to other drivers. The ole 2.5 na would have never made it to 60 without a downhill grade.

https://youtu.be/6W_5Fv5Zojw
 

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Video or it didn't happen boys!
 

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Don, been at work alot lately not keep up with your build, looks excellent!!!!,
New. 315's & set alda back to paint marks when it came.

Makes a huge difference them new injectors, RD kinda got cheated when visiting due to only 2 or 3 injectors working at low pressures and other two defunct.

Running 14lbs boost n kinda remembering the KKK's better performance with the frozen wastegate making me think on trying 16lbs for fun.
Big difference the more boost it gets, someone mentioned going to 20 n better but I'm too cautious.

Glad to read it's working for you!!!

------ Follow up post added November 28th, 2016 07:15 PM ------

Oh,RD,
He's been working on MW pumps last he posted on FB iirc ;--)
 

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Discussion Starter · #356 ·
Don, been at work alot lately not keep up with your build, looks excellent!!!!,
New. 315's & set alda back to paint marks when it came.

Makes a huge difference them new injectors, RD kinda got cheated when visiting due to only 2 or 3 injectors working at low pressures and other two defunct.

Running 14lbs boost n kinda remembering the KKK's better performance with the frozen wastegate making me think on trying 16lbs for fun.
Big difference the more boost it gets, someone mentioned going to 20 n better but I'm too cautious.

Glad to read it's working for you!!!

------ Follow up post added November 28th, 2016 07:15 PM ------

Oh,RD,
He's been working on MW pumps last he posted on FB iirc ;--)
We set the boost to 19 on our Iveco 2.8 Liter TD powered 110 (same engine as the Land Rover Santana PS-10) and the head gasket was blown in about 250 miles.

Keep the BOOST DOWN to 17 PSI MAX, less for an older vehicle without a new head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #359 ·
Pretty cool video.
 

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Another update for feedback on this swap as I tick over 3000 miles:

The 110 is now my daily driver again. The OM617 is exactly what I had hoped for in an engine swap: easy and requiring no significant fabrication, relatively affordable, simple to fix, and reliable. It has made my 110 drivable in most conditions. It can merge safely. I am indeed able to cruise on the highway much faster than a 110 should go (70-75 mph). I maintain at 65 comfortably. It can make it over most passes at 55 mph with my current gearing; sometimes dropping to 50 on a rare occasion.

This change in my assessment is due to two things...

First, I bookended the swap's performance because until recently I didn't check to ensure my throttle cable setup was achieving full accelerator range of motion. Idiot-move and complete oversight. Once I cleaned that up, it was like a new truck and seems to have power for days. That extra half inch of actuation helps me push to the factory 8-9 psi boost and helps me get over many of the passes around here with relative ease compared with before.

Second, I am running my traditionally sized 235/85 winter tires right now which has given the engine the gearing it wants. My normal setup of 1.2 XC with taller 255/85 tires wasn't working. This setup yields better results and more appropriate shift points than the taller setup. Before I put my km2s back on I'll find a 1.4 to swap in.

I know that a lot on this thread provides the caveat of 'if you add an M-pump' or 'when properly tuned'. My two cents is that this shouldn't be a caveat if you want a reliable daily driver with more than enough power. It just isn't needed.
 
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