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Mercedes OM617 Powered 110 Build Up

134604 Views 400 Replies 55 Participants Last post by  Ephry73
The starting vehicle:
1986 110 with 2.5 liter Petrol engine, leaking fuel tank, and interior and under hood area covered in carpet and other sound deadening material.

Purchased from a UK dealer. It was used by DRA for flight testing of countermeasures equipment. Unique in that it had 44,500 miles and was without front vents presumably to cut down on noise and interference.

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Don - do you have a part # for this seal? Thanks!
I don't have it on me and I am out of town. Peach Parts has a nice interface online to look up parts.

------ Follow up post added November 7th, 2014 01:02 PM ------

Pics on the way
Got them - I've been on and off line - will email back soon.
Finally got the lower part of the OM617 downpipe installed. As mentioned before I used a piece of 2.5 tubing to increase the OD. Then had to customize a stainless exhaust bracket I bought from Summit to attached to a bolt on the cross brace bracket. Swapped in a longer M10 bolt that I had to cut new threads into. Bracket of course had to have a piece of stainless welded to it to fit right.

I used a v-clamp to attach the 90 degree pipe to start the rest of the exhaust path. Took some fiddling but got the DP to attach to the 90.

I still have a lot to do but pretty psyched with how things are lining up so far.

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Don, good to see you plugging away at this. I need to get my act together and start making some progress on mine.
Don, good to see you plugging away at this. I need to get my act together and start making some progress on mine.
Charles - are you doing a om617 conversion as well?
No, but a conversion/build nevertheless :)
Crankcase Ventilation.

The OM617 vacuum pump brings in forced air to vent the engine.
This is often confused as excessive blow by.
On the 110, I used the W115 OM617 inlet manifold with a Land Rover TDI intercooler.
At the time didn't have a catch can, so I cut the stock unit out of the OEM air cleaner and ran plumed it into the 1993 Chrysler New Yorker Air Filter.
The catch can has 3 hose fittings: one for the valve cover, one that goes to the inlet side of the turbo, and a drain to the oil pan.
In theory, the oil vapor condenses in the catch can and drains back into the oil pan sump.
Any excess oil vapor is sucked into the turbo and ends up getting burned in the engine.
Since an internal oil coating reduces the efficiency of the intercooler, I mounted an air compressor liquid trap between the catch can and the air cleaner.
The fitting for PVC on the air cleaner housing is below the air filter element.
The limited vapor getting to the air cleaner housing gets sucked through the air filter element and leaves it black requiring it to be changed more often.

I am working on a larger catch can with 3 chambers separated by a divider.
The shape is cylindrical with a divider down the middle that doesn't reach the bottom.
One side at the top will have the inlet, the other side will have the outlet.
Part way up the divider will be a have circle of perforated aluminum that screws to a bracket attached to the center divider.
Each side will be filled with course stainless steel wool.
The vapor and air under pressure will enter one side travel through the stainless steel wool, go through the perforated aluminum plate, travel around the lower part of the divider, go through the other perforated aluminum plate, travel up through the stainless steel wool, and out the top.
There will be a glass bowl on the bottom with an aluminum bottom identical to the custom sedimenters.
The lover bolt will have a drain to goes down into the oil pan sump.
The outlet will be attached to the turbo inlet close to the turbo.
The fresh air will be pumped into the engine by the vacuum pump, go out the valve cover into the catch can, out the catch can and into the turbo inlet along with the air sucked through the air filter.
The oil will deposit on the stainless steel wool on both sides of the catch can, drain out into the oil pan.
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Look at peach parts forum, instructions are there, even found a link for a kit though seller is out of business.
I believe Don also posted a thread earlier on how to build one.
4 kits scheduled to be out in mid-March, 3 sold and 1 available if anyone needs it.
Having discussions on the available kit, purchase pending.
More due out in late May - early June.
I'll take the last one if still available
You want a complete OM617 Kit or were you using your phone and want a sedimenter?
I can barely use this site from my phone, so an easy mistake to make...
First pic is sideways. It should look like this side view just above the front tire. The brass oil pressure line can be seen in the top right. Those are the fuel lines in the foreground. The oil pan can be seen at the bottom.
Don did you run into any issues with clearance of the 'top' hose end/adapter getting past the IP? I'm doing the same thing/same parts - running into issues
Don did you run into any issues with clearance of the 'top' hose end/adapter getting past the IP? I'm doing the same thing/same parts - running into issues
Is that for the oil pressure sender line? If so I had to hammer my bulkhead to fit better.
No, the top oil cooler line hose end/adapter contacts the IP -
No, the top oil cooler line hose end/adapter contacts the IP -
I will have to check.
GREAT thread!

You must be close to finished Don!
GREAT thread! You must be close to finished Don!
Mine has been running but since I am doing a full rebuild it still has a few things I need to finish up. Main things are throttle cable, radiator hose and air intake. And how to turn it off, haha.

Actually gave it a test bump last night. It had been sitting for at least a month and I had redone the fuel lines a few weeks ago. It fired right up after a few seconds turning over.
We pretty much have the same stuff left... But you are one step ahead of me because you have a downpipe. I'm going to try and find someone to do at least the first bend and a flex pipe this weekend!
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