Mercedes OM617 Powered 110 Build Up

134610 Views 400 Replies 55 Participants Last post by Ephry73, 4 mo ago

rdavisinva

Discussion Starter · Dec 28, 2012

The starting vehicle:
1986 110 with 2.5 liter Petrol engine, leaking fuel tank, and interior and under hood area covered in carpet and other sound deadening material.

Purchased from a UK dealer. It was used by DRA for flight testing of countermeasures equipment. Unique in that it had 44,500 miles and was without front vents presumably to cut down on noise and interference.

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NPT90

· #201 · Oct 7, 2014

rdavisinva said:
Installed a boost bleed off valve tonight and the KKK turbo spins higher boost. Right now the stock pump settings and ALDA can handle the increased boost. The next step is to adjust the pump and install the JDM T3 T4 we picked up Expo East weekend. http://www.jdmsportnation.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=17:jdm-sport-t3-t4-a-r-63-ball-bearing-turbocharger

The mighty t3 (t4)!

Great turbo; made the VW very reliable tunable good luck

don

· #202 · Oct 7, 2014

rdavisinva said:
Installed a boost bleed off valve tonight and the KKK turbo spins higher boost.
Right now the stock pump settings and ALDA can handle the increased boost.
The next step is to adjust the pump and install the JDM T3 T4 we picked up Expo East weekend.

http://www.jdmsportnation.com/index...-sport-t3-t4-a-r-63-ball-bearing-turbocharger

Can't wait to see what the JDM turbo looks like installed. What are the price ranges on them? And would that turbo work with bigger plungers?

rdavisinva

Discussion Starter · #203 · Oct 7, 2014 (Edited)

don said:
Can't wait to see what the JDM turbo looks like installed. What are the price ranges on them? And would that turbo work with bigger plungers?

JDM T3 - T4 bolts right up, but will need a custom wastegate and possibly a custom exit houssing to facilitate the down pipe.
Prices vary, but you can google them...

JDM T3 - T4 With bigger plungers? Depends on how big, but probably so.
I want to see about getting the 160 - 165 HP out of the stock IP before jumping to a new M-IP.
Have also asked about a slight jump from the stock 5.5mm plungers to 6 or 6.5 on the TD MW-IP, but nothing back yet.
I don't want to jump all the way to 7.5 at first because we are not drifting and don't need the 250 - 500 HP the M-IP can bring with the right size intercooler and turbo.
I'd be happy with the 160 - 165HP with adjustments to the stock MW-IP.
Am told 170 HP is all the stock fueling limitations can achieve using the MW-IP.

All I can say is I wish all the haters from pirate could take this 110 for a ride because it is faster than any 200TDI, I have driven with the KKK turbo and additional boost.
It does not slow down on inclined upgrades as severely as my Rover TDI 110 did.

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don

· #204 · Oct 7, 2014

rdavisinva said:
JDM T3 - T4 bolts right up, but will need a custom wastegate and possibly a custom exit houssing to facilitate the down pipe.
Prices vary, but you can google them...

JDM T3 - T4 With bigger plungers? Depends on how big, but probably so.
I want to see about getting the 160 - 165 HP out of the stock IP before jumping to a new M-IP.
Have also asked about a slight jump from the stock 5.5mm plungers to 6 or 6.5 on the TD MW-IP, but nothing back yet.
I don't want to jump all the way to 7.5 at first because we are not drifting and don't need the 250 - 500 HP the M-IP can bring with the right size intercooler and turbo.
I'd be happy with the 160 - 165HP with adjustments to the stock MW-IP.
Am told 170 HP is all the stock fueling limitations can achieve using the MW-IP.

All I can say is I wish all the haters from pirate could take this 110 for a ride because it is faster than any 200TDI, I have driven with the KKK turbo and additional boost.
It does not slow down on inclined upgrades as severely as my Rover TDI 110 did.

A quick google search showed around $500 for a turbo. Not bad.

160-165 HP out of the stock IP would be very nice. I have down 125 HP as a stock output so that is a nice gain. Guessing torque would be over the 200 lb/ft figure then? Not far off from a stock 3.9 specs.

I read your Expo East journey and was pretty excited to see 75-85mph mentioned when the turbo was sorted out. I would be more than happy traveling in my 110 at that speed. I still have a ways to go on my rebuild but I test fire the OM617 here and there just to hear it run. I have to do the glow's but it damn, that thing will start without much. And it might go even easier when I re-adjust the valves.

Yeah, I am not sure how many Defender OM617 those guys drove prior to making their statements. Maybe they are basing their experience from driving them in Merc's where the auto box probably sucks a lot of the power out of it. But, like I say - you really can't talk **** unless you've cleaned out the chicken coop.

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rdavisinva

Discussion Starter · #205 · Oct 8, 2014 (Edited)

Exactly Don.
They never cleaned out the coop, ie drove a Land Rover powered by the OM617.
Just a bunch of people being disagreeable who have no idea what it is like to build a kit, much less one that is offered at cost...

Driving by the GPS, I can get 75 MPH on the flat with the stock KKK turbo without the fuel trim solenoid with a manual boost controller.
This is without any IP adjustments.
Driving at 65 MPH and pressing the petal down about 1/4" is nice and should yield more than 20 MPG.
Not bad for a brick shaped Land Rover.

In the future, want to turn up the stock pump settings a little at a time until it gets close to max power output and call it a day.
This should dial in in at about 160HP and 200+ lb/ft.

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don

· #206 · Oct 23, 2014

Glow Plugs Section

So ingot the engine to test fire a few times but realized with the cooler fall temps that I should get the glow plugs working. I started out just ordering a Merc glow plug controller off eBay but since I pulled one plug to make sure I had pencil style plugs I figured I would get new plugs. Plus the one I pulled was an Autolite which I've read aren't so great. That turned into buying a reamer to make sure the new plugs aren't touching carbon when they go in.

Pics:

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don

· #207 · Oct 24, 2014

Pic of the reamer:

I got the glow plugs and reamer from MercedesSource. The reamer worked well and I used copper grease on the glow plug threads when reinstalling.

I little but of a pain in the ass to install and glad I did it before more pieces were installed and in the way.

I read that the OM603 (I think) has had glow plug issues with them cracking. I didn't find much negative about the OM617 glow plugs besides that it is a tight fit with the fuel lines in place.

I need to get some wiring and will temp wire the glow plug relay next.

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scrubs

· #208 · Oct 24, 2014

FWIW....ex mod LT77&1.6, Roverdrive, mine can do 65mph all day long, just valve adjustment worked fine

don

· #209 · Oct 24, 2014

scrubs said:
FWIW....ex mod LT77&1.6, Roverdrive, mine can do 65mph all day long, just valve adjustment worked fine

Scrubs - what tires are you running? I am assuming 3.54's in the pumpkins? I would be more than happy with 65-70 on the 110 when done.

scrubs

· #210 · Oct 24, 2014

Maxis 255's n very happy with them, probably running faster than mentioned

don

· #211 · Nov 4, 2014

So Robert said a while back to try and make an exhaust junction at the downpipe before the cross member so any future fixes would be a little easier. I had the stock Merc downpipe and cut some off the end. I believe it is a 60mm OD and it seems most exhaust clamps and items are 2.25 or 2.5". So cut 2" off a 2.5" straight tube of stainless. Welded that onto the Merc DP. Summit also had these trick looking V-band clamps. So now I have a stainless 2.5" end on the DP and can piece together the rest of the exhaust.

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don

· #212 · Nov 4, 2014

In my other post I reamed the glowplug holes and installed new GP's. I wasn't sure what to do to control the GP's and after searching it seemed the stock Merc controller would be a nice option. There is a great video that shows how to wire them. I added a few feet of same colored wiring to the pig tail that came with the controller I bought on eBay.

Did a test this weekend which was in the upper 40's and the motor fired right up. I was actually very surprised by how easily it started. Pretty much as easy as my modern gas L322 and Suburban. And the OM617 ran smooth and hardly any smoke unlike the previous starts. I know people harsh on the IDI of the OM617 and that it has to use glows to start but the wiring is pretty simple and straight forward so IMO not that big of a deal.

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rdavisinva

Discussion Starter · #213 · Nov 4, 2014 (Edited)

don said:
So Robert said a while back to try and make an exhaust junction at the downpipe before the cross member so any future fixes would be a little easier. I had the stock Merc downpipe and cut some off the end. I believe it is a 60mm OD and it seems most exhaust clamps and items are 2.25 or 2.5". So cut 2" off a 2.5" straight tube of stainless. Welded that onto the Merc DP. Summit also had these trick looking V-band clamps. So now I have a stainless 2.5" end on the DP and can piece together the rest of the exhaust.

Are you using the exhaust flange supplied with the kit?

scrubs said:
FWIW....ex mod LT77&1.6, Roverdrive, mine can do 65mph all day long, just valve adjustment worked fine

Glad you're up and running.
I'm running a 1.4 T-case, but with a manual boost controller and the same size tires and can cruse at 75mph when pushing the petal about 1/3 of the way down.

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don

· #214 · Nov 4, 2014

rdavisinva said:
Are you using the exhaust flange supplied with the kit? Glad you're up and running. I'm running a 1.4 T-case, but with a manual boost controller and the same size tires and can cruse at 75mph when pushing the petal about 1/3 of the way down.

Nope - not going to use the flange. I decided to go 2.5" stainless all the way back and make my own exhaust. Do you want that flange back?

rdavisinva

Discussion Starter · #215 · Nov 5, 2014

Sure if you're not going to use it.

scrubs

· #216 · Nov 5, 2014

For my two cents on performance I added a functional snorkel, it made a HUGE difference, so much I gave up the intercooler idea.

don

· #217 · Nov 5, 2014

scrubs said:
For my two cents on performance I added a functional snorkel, it made a HUGE difference, so much I gave up the intercooler idea.

Interesting. What was your air I take setup before? The stock OM617 air filter canister or a CAI/cone style?

scrubs

· #218 · Nov 5, 2014

Thought I sent a few pics upon completion, if you like I can send a few more

scrubs

· #219 · Nov 5, 2014

Pics on the way

ontheway

· #220 · Nov 7, 2014

don said:
Got the pan on today.

A couple of pics of the front main seal. The seal I bought was from Corteco. I have used them for axles on the Rover and they seem to work well. Anyways this one had me stumped as the seal had half a flange. When I put the pan on it seems to make more sense. The longer flange should be with the pan as the pan sits back a bit (like only 1mm). I tried to take some pics to show how it sits (which I am hoping is correct)

The 28 or so Allen head bolts. I didn't see the lock washers at first and used blue loctite. But then found them when I was looking for something else. Took them all out and reinstalled with the lock washers. The stock wavy washers can't work as the drill outs are too small. With the lock washers the bolt heads stick out a little bit. I torqued all the M6 bolts to 10 N/M and the 4 - M8 to 25 lb/ft or 32 N/M.

I am having an issue with one of the M6 bolts near where the dip stick goes. Not sure if i should Dremel a notch in the dip stick part or open up the hole for where the bolt goes in. Robert any ideas?

Don - do you have a part # for this seal? Thanks!

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