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Mercedes OM617 Powered 110 Build Up

134610 Views 400 Replies 55 Participants Last post by  Ephry73
The starting vehicle:
1986 110 with 2.5 liter Petrol engine, leaking fuel tank, and interior and under hood area covered in carpet and other sound deadening material.

Purchased from a UK dealer. It was used by DRA for flight testing of countermeasures equipment. Unique in that it had 44,500 miles and was without front vents presumably to cut down on noise and interference.

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I've been slacking on the pic front but have been picking away at this OM617 install.

After some research I decided to spend some bucks and go Stainless A/N lines. Expensive, yes but if I do change radiator and do a different oil cooler I can reconfigure. Plus these A/N lines are so freaking trick. And the NAS oil cooler replacement line kits are done this way...

Radiator is a 200tdi version. If I decide to run an intercooler, it has a spot for it. I used a YRM radiator frame (another trick piece).

One thing that tripped me up was the oil pressure sender. I decided on a VDO Mechnical kit from eGauges (150-1072 - 100 PSI Oil - Metric Kit - 2 1/16" - Vision Black: http://www.egauges.com/100-PSI-Oil-Metric-Kit-2-1-16-p/150-1072.htm)

It says that it comes with an M12x1.5 adapter. I assumed too much and when I went to install everything I didn't have one. Scrambling, I got a 1/8 NPT tap and tried to tap the stock Merc sender bolt. I ended up cracking it on install and while pissed was thankful that I did. The correct piece is AutoMeter 2277: http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto-Meter/105/2277/10002/-1 I got a roll of brass line as the stock VDO plastic I didn't think it would last long term to the vibrations.

For the oil lines:

200tdi Oil Cooler outlets: 3230-6-10AN (3/8 BSP Male to 10AN Male Adapter, Steel - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3230)
Jegs - 10AN - Stainless Lines
Jegs - 10AN - Ends - 90 deg elbows
Jegs - 10AN - 45 deg Ends - to fit into the area of the oil filter
Merc OM617 Oil Filter Canister - 9022-10-L15-22 | 5/8" JIC Male x M22x1.5 DIN Light Metric Swivel (http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=9022-10-L15-22&Search.x=19&Search.y=20)

The last few days I've been trying to figure out to "bench start" it. I don't want to go too far if the motor won't run. So I can keep an eye out for a replacement if need be.

Pics:
1 - Oil Cooler Lines coming out of the Merc Canister
2 - 200tdi Radiator with AN lines
3 - Fitment around the steering box
4 - Oil Filter Canister. Install a new filter and yes had to buff/polish the top for a half hour before putting back on...

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First pic is sideways.

It should look like this side view just above the front tire.

The brass oil pressure line can be seen in the top right. Those are the fuel lines in the foreground. The oil pan can be seen at the bottom.

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Got it to test fire today.

First some pics of the wiring I did to the starter. When to Autozone and got some #2 Gauge wires to hook up the starter to the battery. I tried it with jumper cables the other day but I read on a Merc forum that the jumpers don't give a good enough ground. I tied the neg ground to the a bolt on the bellhousing adapter. Got a little pushbotton as well to make it nice and easy and not to worry about a screwdriver or loose wire.

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After reading all though this, I'm kind if regretting the HS2.8 conversion with all it's expense and headache, I'm wish I had done the OM617 instead.
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Excellent !

Got it to test fire today.
It was barely noticeable in the video, but when the OM617 comes off idle it is as smooth as any petrol engine I've ever driven.

Don, if you need some intercooler routing advice and the radiator intercooler frame configuration, I can provide guidance.
You'll pick up some top end with an intercooler.
You can also adjust out the ALDA and turn up the fuel.
Then increase boost with a pressure bleed off valve.
This will get you 80MPH on the flat.
Add a tuned IP and you'll get 160HP.
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Just an FYI.. When you route the oil pressure guage tubing when you are using brass it's best to do 2 or 3 coils midway, this reduces the likelihood of it stress fracturing due to the vibrations..

------ Follow up post added September 3rd, 2014 06:55 PM ------

And are you running a mechanical fan with a fan shroud or doing a thermo fan..?
It was barely noticeable in the video, but when the OM617 comes off idle it is as smooth as any petrol engine I've ever driven.

Don, if you need some intercooler routing advice and the radiator intercooler frame configuration, I can provide guidance.
You'll pick up some top end with an intercooler.
You can also adjust out the ALDA and turn up the fuel.
Then increase boost with a pressure bleed off valve.
This will get you 80MPH on the flat.
Add a tuned IP and you'll get 160HP.
Thanks Robert. I forgot to say - the starter in your kit is nice! Also, not sure if people noticed but the engine stays pretty stable even at the rough idle. Compared to the 2.5NA it seems a world of difference. I think once there is a tranny and gearbox hooked up it will be even better. And then the exhaust should quiet it done a bunch.

It seems smokey now - I am guessing that it is just burning a year's worth of crud that's in the IP? My next step is to adjust the valves so that might help too.

I am going to run it first without the intercooler but have plans to update that once the rest of the build is done.

I have to check the ALDA and boost pressure.

Have you gotten a tuned IP yet? I thought you had been talking with DieselMieken?

------ Follow up post added September 3rd, 2014 09:11 PM ------

Just an FYI.. When you route the oil pressure guage tubing when you are using brass it's best to do 2 or 3 coils midway, this reduces the likelihood of it stress fracturing due to the vibrations..

------ Follow up post added September 3rd, 2014 06:55 PM ------

And are you running a mechanical fan with a fan shroud or doing a thermo fan..?
Thanks for the brass line tip. I have it with 6 or so loops now (right out of the package) but will keep a couple loops on final. I saw that on one of the OM617 installs.

I am TBD on the mech fan or electric. I wish I had a 200tdi shroud to see if things would line up as I think that would be the easiest. But might have to do electric/thermo for spacing and IC pipe running.
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The problem with running a thermo fan is that you don't get air passing over the intercooler until you get moving at a decent speed.. So in low range on turbo boost the intercooler isn't being effective.. Even when the engine gets hot and the thermo fan comes in its still not pulling air over the intercooler..whereas with a mechanical fan it's always moving air across the intercooler..even at low vehicle speeds in low range as the engine revs are turning the fan..
The problem with running a thermo fan is that you don't get air passing over the intercooler until you get moving at a decent speed.. So in low range on turbo boost the intercooler isn't being effective.. Even when the engine gets hot and the thermo fan comes in its still not pulling air over the intercooler..whereas with a mechanical fan it's always moving air across the intercooler..even at low vehicle speeds in low range as the engine revs are turning the fan..
Ah - very good points. Believe me I would love to keep the wiring down to a minimum. I think I have seen where people made their own shrouds. Might be a solution out there someplace...
Thanks Robert. I forgot to say - the starter in your kit is nice! Also, not sure if people noticed but the engine stays pretty stable even at the rough idle. Compared to the 2.5NA it seems a world of difference.
The gear reduction starter spins the engine fast enough to minimize the glow required for IDI.
It took lots of effort to find that starter with the right KW, pinion throw, and orientation; but the result speaks for itself...
Once found, the kit had to be engineered for the starter to fit in the correct location.
The second batch of kits do not use the aluminum adapter.
Progress... you just have to make some.

Years ago when making my first diesel conversions, I used Land Rover IIA Diesel mounts. The vehicle shook so bad that the tropical roof was jumping up and down. Switched to the Mercedes hydraulic filled motor mounts and the violent vibrations went away!
The gear reduction starter spins the engine fast enough to minimize the glow required for IDI.
It took lots of effort to find that starter with the right KW, pinion throw, and orientation; but the result speaks for itself...
Once found, the kit had to be engineered for the starter to fit in the correct location.
The second batch of kits do not use the aluminum adapter.
Progress... you just have to make some.

Years ago when making my first diesel conversions, I used Land Rover IIA Diesel mounts. The vehicle shook so bad that the tropical roof was jumping up and down. Switched to the mercedes hydraulic filled motor mounts and the violent vibrations went away!
Yeah, once I got a solid battery and good connections (it wasn't working right doing the jumper cable way), I was pretty blown away with how fast she spun!

I don't mind that adapter one bit. I pulled the starter out to do a floor test and it went back in easy peasy.
I don't mind that adapter one bit. I pulled the starter out to do a floor test and it went back in easy peasy.
Interesting story regarding the starter adapter.
I had originally built the kit based on a custom mean green starter that we modified with mean green consent.
The intent was, we would build a kit and anyone with a kit would buy a starter directly from mean green.
If anyone needed replacements mean green would be there for us with a new replacement handy - on the shelf.

We bought 2 starters from mean green, modified them both and send one back to mean green with a drawing to be engineered and reproduced.
After mean green made several dozen and held them in stock, we would get our second starter back and have the ability to purchase the correct starter at any time.
This specifically took me out of the starter business.
If someone needs a starter, well they just order one from mean green.
If someone has a problem with a starter, well they take it up with mean green.
Sounds like a good separation of responsibility, right?
We we never heard back from mean green and never got our 2nd starter back even though we paid for it.
Called every day for over a month and never spoke to the guy handling the project or anyone else who could help.
No one ever called me back.
Accepted this annoying dead end and moved on.

We had a batch of kits set up for the mean starter and no starters from mean green to make the kits whole!
Then I scrambled and spent countless hours locating a different starter, that ending up being a huge improvement over the mean green.

After a trial fit, determined that the starter would work if we manufactured the starter adapter you have in your kit.
The later generation kits don't use the aluminum adapter, the backing plate accommodates the starter without an adapter.

Then last month after almost 2 years mean green called asking about the project and what to do with the starter.
I told them to ship the starter back and they agreed.
Starter that was paid for several years ago still has not arrived.
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Got the radiator hoses in. Hopefully they will work. I used Merc hoses and then a Jaguar's That Run adapters (pretty nice stuff) to some pieces I got at the local Autozone:

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One of my next steps with this is to figure if I can get away with using the Merc mechanical fan vs wiring up an electric. If the OM617 sits close to where a 200tdi would, my guess is a 200tdi shroud should fit (with some cuts if needed).

Going to adjust the valves next week. Might get a new accelerator pedal and hook that stuff up soon too.
One of my next steps with this is to figure if I can get away with using the Merc mechanical fan vs wiring up an electric. If the OM617 sits close to where a 200tdi would, my guess is a 200tdi shroud should fit (with some cuts if needed).

Going to adjust the valves next week. Might get a new accelerator pedal and hook that stuff up soon too.

THere are some pretty good DIY fan shrouds on the youtube (basically you just fab it up and layer it with resin, some paint and bobs your uncle) but obviously its nice to have an ABS plastic shroud.
THere are some pretty good DIY fan shrouds on the youtube (basically you just fab it up and layer it with resin, some paint and bobs your uncle) but obviously its nice to have an ABS plastic shroud.
I think I came across one of those during my searching. I guess worse came to worse I could do it that way but I find it fabricating things takes me forever!
Installed a boost bleed off valve tonight and the KKK turbo spins higher boost.
Right now the stock pump settings and ALDA can handle the increased boost.
The next step is to adjust the pump and install the JDM T3 T4 we picked up Expo East weekend.

http://www.jdmsportnation.com/index...-sport-t3-t4-a-r-63-ball-bearing-turbocharger
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