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Robert,

I just found out what this year's tax refund is going to be....

What does your current stock of kits look like. Any manufacturing runs planned this year? -Dave
 

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Ok thanks for the info - I will be back in the states later in February and will be in touch regardless. I've got your e-mail from previous conversations.

Are you going to be at Uwharrie Safari in April?
 

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Dave:
Just sold the last 90/110 kit from the first batch.
Will have about 6 or so around the beginning of March 2014.
None of this batch are pre-sold yet, so we should have some kits to line up with your stateside reunion timing.
Thanks Robert -- a fortnight or so and I'll be back. Should know what the tax situation looks like by the 1st of March and will commit then.

Looking forward to it!
 

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Got the pan on today.

A couple of pics of the front main seal. The seal I bought was from Corteco. I have used them for axles on the Rover and they seem to work well. Anyways this one had me stumped as the seal had half a flange. When I put the pan on it seems to make more sense. The longer flange should be with the pan as the pan sits back a bit (like only 1mm). I tried to take some pics to show how it sits (which I am hoping is correct)

The 28 or so Allen head bolts. I didn't see the lock washers at first and used blue loctite. But then found them when I was looking for something else. Took them all out and reinstalled with the lock washers. The stock wavy washers can't work as the drill outs are too small. With the lock washers the bolt heads stick out a little bit. I torqued all the M6 bolts to 10 N/M and the 4 - M8 to 25 lb/ft or 32 N/M.

I am having an issue with one of the M6 bolts near where the dip stick goes. Not sure if i should Dremel a notch in the dip stick part or open up the hole for where the bolt goes in. Robert any ideas?
Don - do you have a part # for this seal? Thanks!
 

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First pic is sideways. It should look like this side view just above the front tire. The brass oil pressure line can be seen in the top right. Those are the fuel lines in the foreground. The oil pan can be seen at the bottom.
Don did you run into any issues with clearance of the 'top' hose end/adapter getting past the IP? I'm doing the same thing/same parts - running into issues
 

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We pretty much have the same stuff left... But you are one step ahead of me because you have a downpipe. I'm going to try and find someone to do at least the first bend and a flex pipe this weekend!
 

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Haha - I like that idea. Well - if I end up doing the DP over I might have to do the same! If you can post up what you are doing about the air intake - trying to figure out a clean setup. Was going to go the stock Merc air filter canister but things are tight with the heater box and windshield washer canister.
Parts for intake are on the way. Will post photos of the mockup if it works and will let you know what parts I used.

Haven't delved into the accelerator cable yet. Just been too busy.
 

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Looks good. The issue with mine is the return spring on the IP Is useless. Going to either replace it and see if it helps, or more likely going to have to rig up a return spring up on the valve cover. Does your accelerator/throttle spring back to the stop position?

In other news, went back out today to fire up the engine just for kicks and it was the fastest and smoothest starting diesel I've ever been around. Can't wait to get this thing rolling.
 

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My conversion is practically complete...

So naturally on a recent test-start I noticed exhaust coming from the heater output (no coolant added yet).

Everything I know tells me this is a head/head gasket issue. Awesome.

Truck idles, revs fine. But has never been run under load or more than 60 seconds.

So now it's a matter of deciding if I finish the install and attempt to drive... Or go backwards 6-12 months and start with a different engine.
 

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First impressions of Om617 compared to 2.5NA... For reference, it is intercooler mated to 1.4 XC.

Night and day difference in power and driveability! The turbo lag is pronounced - for the first few meters as it builds RPMs it seems almost more anemic than the 2.5na. This is likely exacerbated by the intercooler. However, boost builds quickly and predictably and pulls the truck along nicely through the gears. Speedo isn't hooked up yet, but I had no problem keeping up with traffic on flats in 55mph zone. This seems unimpressive unless you have driven a heavily laden 2.5. More to follow on this after speedo is hooked up.

I live around constant hills. The truck can pull up long grades at 45mph with EGT hovering around 1000f. I didn't expect it to cruise up these hills at 60... But it would have been nice. Local steep grades with lower speed limits require me to rev high in lower gears to keep the 25-35 speed.

Low speed running in high range isn't ideal. This is likely due in most part to the switch to a 1.4. Also, the need to rev high for useful torque is limiting. I expect to spend more time in low range than before. While anemic, the 2.5 had a predictable power band in the lowest of rpms and could idle over a lot without stalling. The om617 with this gearing seems to want to stall.

Even at WOT the smoke is minimal. The engine is about the same noise level as the 2.5.

Overall so far pleased and glad to have taken the truck through this metamorphosis. One nagging problem left is a significant oil leak from the oil temp sender. It interferes with the bell housing adapter, and must be turned (unthreaded) slightly to fit past. This turn causes it to leak a good bit - more than is safe. I'm either going to have to shave material from the bell housing adapter or plug the temp sender hole with a 12x1.5 bolt. Even then, I'm not sure how I will remove the sender since it can't be turned a full rotation.



 

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Took the truck out for a good 60 mile round trip today to stretch its legs. It pulled well through mixed country roads, interstate and a good 2 mile climb over Storm King.

And then it broke down in my neighborhood.

It's showing symptoms of fuel starvation and I'm seeing bubbles in the fuel line between the primer pump and the IP itself. After the breakdown I was able to restart and limp it home by remaining in first gear medium to high revs. Once I shifted to 2nd and the engine came under load it stalled again. I wasn't able to do much diagnosis after getting home because it was dark. Tomorrow I'll start looking at:
-Vapor lock
-fuel line crack
-fuel filters
-shutoff solenoid function (may be losing power)


All that being said, I was most impressed finally getting her out on the interstate where it was relatively flat. She cruised great at 65-70. Honestly 5th gear is too tall with this 1.2 and I really only used it on downhills to reduce revs at 70mph. I really see this setup having few limitations once it is properly mated with a 1.4 LT230.
 

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I am running a 12V fuel pump as advised.

------ Follow up post added March 16th, 2016 11:01 PM ------

On mine, with old style primer pump,a o-ring at the top of it had broken, I ran some sealant around the top base n never had an issue with it getting air in again, also running electric pump too tho
Thanks I'll be sure to check that when looking for leaks
 
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