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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to have to install my 4th Mallory Module (605) in a years time. I upgraded the coil to the Mallory 30451 (epoxy coil) around 7 months ago and thought I had eliminated the problem. During a downpour a couple of weeks ago...I lost spark...and had to tow it home. Waited around 2 weeks, figured if anything got wet during the downpour, it would be dry by now... and changed the module, and went ahead and replaced the cap and rotor while I was at it. Truck fired right up. Tested it a few times more and all was great...I thought. Drove a couple of miles down the road for a kids b-day party and the truck sat for a couple of hours. Got ready to leave...and no fire! No rain either. Is anyone running a Mallory Unilite with the 29351 Active Power Filter or the 29371 Circuit Guard? Is there another system that might be more bullet proof? Is there a way to test for voltage spikes or anything else that would keep knocking these modules out? At $100 a pop, I don't want to have to keep a couple of spares in the truck at all times...and it just be a crap shoot every time I go to start it up.
 

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My set-up is below. Buy them through Amazon and you won't have any return issues. My Mallory came with a bad module. I'm running the filter.

Products Ordered:
1) Mallory 4768901 ("47 series") Unilite distributor
2) Mallory 30450 (black) Promaster E Series Ignition Coils
3) Mallory 29351 power filter


1) http://www.amazon.com/Mallory-47689...&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive
2) http://www.amazon.com/Mallory-30450...&qid=1379349876&sr=1-1&keywords=mallory+30450
3) http://www.amazon.com/Mallory-29351...82&sr=1-1&keywords=Mallory+29351+power+filter
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, finally put a new module in and went ahead and installed the circuit gaurd, as well. Tested spark to the plugs and it's all good....but no start! I was finally able to get it to start by turning the dizzy counter clockwise, about a quarter turn, but not running too well....or too long. As I would attempt to adjust the timing, by turning the dizzy back clockwise, it would stall out and then I'd have to start over...and even if I would get it started and leave it running a few minuted without trying to adjust the timing, it would still die.

Thanks, in advance, for any ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
During the module, circuit gaurd and cap and rotor changeout, I hadn't altered the timing at all....just swapped/added the parts. I did have the timing adjusted before a long road trip a couple of months ago....it was maybe 2 degrees off at the time. It was running fine for a while until it left me stranded in a downpour. Changed the parts listed above, excluding the circuit gaurd, and everything fired up just fine...then drove to a friends house and no start when i went to leave. So, just put another module in and added the circuit gaurd and apparently having some timing issues...

------ Follow up post added November 17th, 2013 10:12 AM ------

Now I'm wondering if instead of knocking these modules out, could I possibly be jumping time??
 

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Is there another system that might be more bullet proof?
Original Lucas diz with a remoted GM ($20) ignition module.
 

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Fred Lobster/Pete - I don't want to take up your thread but my old NAS is having some Mallory issues. The new owner has fried 2 coils since I sold it to him in June. The module's seem fine as replacing the coil and the truck runs great. I just helped him get it home with a spare Bosch I had given him.

I have asked before but what causes coils to die? Too much heat? too much spark? I noticed the Bosch I had put in there was getting really hot when the truck was idling. And started to run a little rough. I wonder if we are having the same issue but your are breaking modules while my old truck is going thru coils.

------ Follow up post added November 17th, 2013 01:26 PM ------

Original Lucas diz with a remoted GM ($20) ignition module.
I have a used diz in the garage I might give to the new owner and tell him to have the local garage pop out the Mallory and install.

Any part number for that GM ignition module? How does it get wired up?

And what coil do you recommend?
 

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I need an education after reading this tale of woe.


What's so great about Mallory stuff over regular stuff?
My guess: I think at one time Mallory quality was better than it is now. Like back when Century Performance carried them. The vid that Jeff posted showed that the dizzy is good and water tight but I feel like the other parts are not as good any more. Again just a guess.
 

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Guys-

I have the Mallory setup- matching dizzy, filter, and coil, in my '95 D1. had an issue a month ago where
the D1 went dead. I'm a pretty descent mechanic, but this had me stumped. Towed it over to a buddy's shop where he discovered 2 issues. 1) check your crimped on connectors going to the coil. mine was loose on the -neg side connector to the coil and 2)- wouldn't have found this in a mil-years: there was a tiny crack UNDER the brass strip on top of the rotor- big enough for the spark to get thru and burn a tiny hole from the blast from the coil, direct short to the drive shaft of the distributor itself. He had never seen this one either- he noticed a slight black discoloration under the end of the brass strip near the graphite contact area from the coil- unscrewed it, and shazamm- there was the problem.
That rotor still looked brand new.....

The filter is to help filter out the voltage spikes that hammers the module. As explained to me by a techie at Mallory, GM or possibly Ford, has the proprietary design patent on the way the module is made- they can't ground it the way GM does, so the Mallory unit grounds back thru the block, subjecting it to voltage spikes, mostly on start up. I'm no electric guru- that's the gist of what he said to me, and I could have a memory lapse as well- so someone feel free to jump in and correct me.

The techie said to NEVER, NEVER use the "engine start" feature of your home battery charger on any modern vehicle- the electric signal is so dirty that it can fry sensitive electronics easily.

The problem with the Lucas dizzy is that it has a segmented shaft as I understand it- mine was so sloppy that the rebuild kit as sold by AB, etc might not have fixed it- wasted $$ in hopes that it would work. Again, electric gurus- please chime in here as needed....

Tim

'87 D110 300Tdi
'95 D1
Several 911s
 
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