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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So in my epic quest to rebuild my LT230 that came with my new-to-me 110, I've encountered a bunch of ups and downs. I've hit a new one that brings a question:

Is it better to have proper end-float on gearshaft splines per the manual, or have proper gear resistance?

Here's an example situation:

After installing and shimming the input gear to have the proper float per the rebuild manual (0.05mm), I have a really low resistance measured at 0.12kg. The unoffical repair manual mentions no specific float measurement, but says that the resistance should be between 1.4 and 3.6kg.

It's important to note that I'm using brand new bearings and can shim the back side of the bearing as needed.

Thoughts?
 

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So in my epic quest to rebuild my LT230 that came with my new-to-me 110, I've encountered a bunch of ups and downs. I've hit a new one that brings a question:

Is it better to have proper end-float on gearshaft splines per the manual, or have proper gear resistance?

Here's an example situation:

After installing and shimming the input gear to have the proper float per the rebuild manual (0.05mm), I have a really low resistance measured at 0.12kg. The unoffical repair manual mentions no specific float measurement, but says that the resistance should be between 1.4 and 3.6kg.

It's important to note that I'm using brand new bearings and can shim the back side of the bearing as needed.

Thoughts?
Just doing this ATM I used the 0.05mm pre-load figure for the input shaft (3rd edition L/R t/case manual) and 10lbs on the diff bearings (Maxi-Drive instructions for the 30% low range gears) with new bearings.
 

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You set it by measuring float but the bearing does have preload. You are supposed to measure end float then add a shim that is float + x (where x =.xxx" over). All covered in the book if you want to read. Anybody can download from ashcrofts site too...
 
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