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Discussion Starter #1
My T-case has been squealing for a while, primarily when you depress the clutch to slow down, or when you are in gear but decelerating. It never squeals when under acceleration. On the way home Monday, the noises suddenly got more pronounced, a bit more clanky. I haven't driven as I am going through some elimination issues first.I drained and refilled the r380 gearbox and everything looked good (except the old oil), nothing unusual and no metal chunks. Today I am doing the same for the t-case, but am waiting for a 1/2 inch drive socket to arrive to remove drain plug first. I live in western Kenya (from Virginia) and tools and supplies are at a premium. My plan is to check the level of oil, drain anyway, remove bottom plate and inspect. I can update afterwards but didn't know if anyone had any thoughts ahead of time.
 

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I'd make sure you can take out the level plug befote you drain any oil. Sometimes they're tightened up too much/ mangled and are difficult to remove.

There'll be a copper washer on the drain plug. Don't loose it. You say tools are in short supply as it were. If you heat your copper washer up to red hot and dip it into cold water iyl' bring some of the compression qualities of same back.

If you don't have a torque wrench.... Steel to alloy... Nip up firm then and eighth of a turn is fine.

Confirm you have instant gasket for the bottom plate cover.


When putting drain and level plugs
I use a cheap garden pump sprayer to refill. Remove spray nozzle and put on a wee bit of tubing. It does take time as it fills quite slow., but saves any mess.

All the best

😁
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Both of my plugs are the 1/2 inch drive sort, neither with a copper washer unless it is embedded. Thanks for the bits. I use a small section of hose and funnel and fill from seating area for ease of refill!
 

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👍

Normally the drain is a bolt and copper washer.

Double check?

All the best

😁
 

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Both of my plugs are the 1/2 inch drive sort, neither with a copper washer unless it is embedded. Thanks for the bits. I use a small section of hose and funnel and fill from seating area for ease of refill!
Post a photo.

Most of the time, this sort of noise is a U-joint. But you never know until you look.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay, thanks everyone for the thoughts. I removed the t-case fill plug and could not feel any fluid. I popped the drain plug (and yes they are both like set screws with 1/2 inch drive) and less than a half cup of fluid drained. I pulled the lower cover and found no major damage, only the usual sludge and extremely small shards. Zipped her back up and put in 2.5 L of 85/90 (only thing I could find locally). Everything is smooth as butter now, quieter than ever! I will update with any further news. Thanks again!
 

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Seriously post a photo. What you are describing is not normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I own many, many tools, including a 1/2 inch ratchet, but they are in Virginia waiting for a shipping container to be sent. Tools here are total chinese junk, unless I borrow from another American friend close by.
 

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Okay. I would not go to the mall without a 1/2" ratchet in my Defender. :)
 

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I'd check your diff oil level at the same time.

The oil you have put in will wotk just fine for your diffs also.

Glad you're getting it sorted.

All the best
😁
 

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I’m just too curious, is your name Al and your user name is Al’s Defender Kenya, or do you have an LS so you’re A LS Defender Kenya?

either way, id be friggin surprised if a “Chinese” 1/2” rachet wouldn’t do the job just fine...

you can/should remove the pto cover and check the input gear too. I’ve had this happen to my disco Series 2. The lt230‘s slow leak ran it dry (guess it wasn’t so slow after all). Filled it up and it had a bit of a whine the rest of my time with the truck. At very least, check your fluid level. Buy, borrow or conjure one and check that at a minimum or don’t drive till you do, imho.
 
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