LT230 Stuck locked?

9323 Views 25 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Red90, 2 mo ago

bossman429

Discussion Starter · Jun 5, 2016

before i install my gear box and TC i want to make sure its all working, and I'm not understanding the way its operating. currently

on The TC there are two actions essentially side to side which is supposed to disengage and engage the diff lock, and front and back for high or low gear.

If I have the lever in either full forward or full back position, both the front and rear output flanges are locked together. Regardless of the position of the selector assembly (of which there are three clicks (left, middle, right). This tells me my diff lock is stuck engaged. The ONLY time i can spin the front ouput independently of the rear output is when i have the TC lever in the middle position (front to back)....which is essentially neutral no? However the fact i can do this makes me think the diff lock is not stuck, b/c isn't the diff lock completely sewerage of the high/low gear?

What i don't get is if i have it in high or low, and switch the diff lock it doesn't disengage anything... the front and rear outputs stay locked together.

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

rdavisinva

· #2 · Jun 5, 2016

I ALWAYS set the linkage up on the floor, make sure it works, and then remove it so that when the unit(s) are in the vehicle you know the linkage works.

Also be careful you don't confuse locked with AT4WD... the LT230 is not like a 2A for example.

Red90

· #3 · Jun 5, 2016

If the box is not installed, what exactly are you moving around? The gear change and diff lock are separate and on two different places on the box and they have no interaction with each other. They also have different and separate linkages.

bossman429

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 5, 2016 (Edited)

rdavisinva said:
I ALWAYS set the linkage up on the floor, make sure it works, and then remove it so that when the unit(s) are in the vehicle you know the linkage works.

Also be careful you don't confuse locked with AT4WD... the LT230 is not like a 2A for example.

Thats why I'm doing this now and want to know it works. Its "in the vehicle" but only to mock up my mounts.

Understand the difference between locked and AT4WD. But i want to make sure I'm testing it correctly before i conclude my center diff gears are stuck together. Am i correct in assuming that the only time the front and rear output flanges should be locked together and not able to spin independently is when the selector assembly is turned all the way to one side? Regardless of the position of the High/Low selector.

I took off the selector assembly and checked to make sure the actuator was moving back and forth and it is. There are three distinct positions forward, middle, back; which translate into Left/middle/right for the selector assembly itself.

------ Follow up post added June 5th, 2016 10:45 AM ------

Red90 said:
If the box is not installed, what exactly are you moving around? The gear change and diff lock are separate and on two different places on the box and they have no interaction with each other. They also have different and separate linkages.

They are installed, and by that i mean bolted to the engine and each other. Im doing this to mock up my TC/Gearbox mounts. The hi/low linkage is connected. The diff lock linkage is not b/c I'm missing items 31-34 in this diagram Discovery I Transmission Levers, Linkage - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts

but i can operate it by turning the selector assembly itself (item 35) with a 7/16 wrench. However the clutch is not installed but i don't think that makes a difference for what I'm trying to test here correct?

See less See more

Red90

· #5 · Jun 5, 2016

You are confusing things. There are two completely separate linkages.

One goes to the gear change shifter. This is normally connected to the shifter and is the front to back movement. High/neutral/low. This is a pivot on the top/middle of the box that goes forward and back.

The diff lock linkage is the side to side movement of the lever and the lever should only feel two positions. The linkage goes to the top of the front output housing and turns a vertical stud that has two flats on it. You need to look at the linkages and see what is happening as the diff lock, in particular tends to get stuck from lack of use.

In the picture, the diff lock is the stud on the left in the center of the three bolt flange. Gear slector is the lever on the right.

See less See more

bossman429

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jun 5, 2016

Red90 said:
You are confusing things. There are two completely separate linkages.

One goes to the gear change shifter. This is normally connected to the shifter and is the front to back movement. High/neutral/low. This is a pivot on the top/middle of the box that goes forward and back.

The diff lock linkage is the side to side movement of the lever and the lever should only feel two positions. The linkage goes to the top of the front output housing and turns a vertical stud that has two flats on it. You need to look at the linkages and see what is happening as the diff lock, in particular tends to get stuck from lack of use.

In the picture, the diff lock is the stud on the left in the center of the three bolt flange. Gear slector is the lever on the right.

Nope not confusing things... have it exactly as you mentioned. two separate linkages. My point is regardless of the position of the diff lock selector switch (and actuator underneath) the only time the front and rear output flanges operate independently is when the high/lox linkage is in the middle (neutral)

I'll take a vid and post in later today once I'm off baby duty

mongosd2

· #7 · Jun 5, 2016

bossman429 said:
Nope not confusing things... have it exactly as you mentioned. two separate linkages. My point is regardless of the position of the diff lock selector switch (and actuator underneath) the only time the front and rear output flanges operate independently is when the high/lox linkage is in the middle (neutral)

I'll take a vid and post in later today once I'm off baby duty

Is the transmission in neutral?

bossman429

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jun 5, 2016

mongosd2 said:
Is the transmission in neutral?

Yes. But should that matter?

Red90

· #9 · Jun 5, 2016

bossman429 said:
------ Follow up post added June 5th, 2016 10:45 AM ------

They are installed, and by that i mean bolted to the engine and each other. Im doing this to mock up my TC/Gearbox mounts. The hi/low linkage is connected. The diff lock linkage is not b/c I'm missing items 31-34 in this diagram Discovery I Transmission Levers, Linkage - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts

but i can operate it by turning the selector assembly itself (item 35) with a 7/16 wrench. However the clutch is not installed but i don't think that makes a difference for what I'm trying to test here correct?

If you are manually turning the diff lock, there ARE three positions on it. Make sure you are fully moving it. An improperly adjusted diff lock light switch or detente ball (the arrow in the picture I posted) can prevent the diff lock linkage moving fully.

The gear change and the diff lock have no interaction and are completely and 100% separate inside the box.

If the gearbox is not in neutral, none of the testing will work. When the transfer case is in gear, you can't move both output shafts together. Turning one should back spin the other.

bossman429

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jun 5, 2016

Red90 said:
When the transfer case is in gear, you can't move both output shafts together. Turning one should back spin the other.

Regardless of position of the diff lock?

If so this answers my question and there is no issue. Although I don't understand why if you can elaborate for my own education. Thanks!

Arlo

· #11 · Jun 6, 2016

Hi Adrian,

the Diff Lock is spring operated!

You shift the rod to load the spring only!
The locking position will engage spring operated only.

See less See more

bossman429

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jun 7, 2016

Arlo said:
Hi Adrian,

the Diff Lock is spring operated!

You shift the rod to load the spring only!
The locking position will engage spring operated only.

OK - so i get that, the selector loads the spring, when things line up it will change state because of the spring only.

However - how come i can't get it to change state?

I guess i should re-phrase the question:

How can i properly test my TC to make sure my it is engaging and dis-engaging the CDL and High/Low range with it on a bench. What is the proper procedures? (yes i understand the CDL and high/Low are two totally separate functions but would like to test them both.

Currently its bolted to the gearbox but if need be I can unbolt it.

Red90

· #13 · Jun 7, 2016

Turn the output shafts in opposite directions. If they will do that it is unlocked. If not, it is locked. Turn the stud to each end and turn and wiggle the shafts to get the splines to load or unload in the dog clutch. The picture above is locked.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH4r71evEfo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3edP_cIkO50

bossman429

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jun 7, 2016

Red90 said:
Turn the output shafts in opposite directions. If they will do that it is unlocked. If not, it is locked. Turn the stud to each end and turn and wiggle the shafts to get the splines to load or unload in the dog clutch. The picture above is locked.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH4r71evEfo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3edP_cIkO50

OK - i swear im a relatively competent person... but I'm not getting this.

Shouldn't the CDL essentially lock the front and rear outputs together, so one can not spin without the other spinning. this is what sends 50% to the front, and 50% to the rear, and then the axle diffs split 50/50 left to right When its disengaged shouldn't you be able to get one shaft to spin separately from the other?

How should the front and rear output shafts act when the CDL is engaged?

I can not, despite anything, get them to act differently from spinning opposite unless i put the TC in neutral.

bossman429

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jun 19, 2016

So just an update on this. I'm not crazy, just an idiot. Turns out I used the wrong bolt in one spot mounting it to the transmission, and it was locking up a gear Inside the TC. Correct length used and problem solved. Stupid mistake but an easy fix. Glad I didnt just bolt it up!

Mike the vike

· #16 · 2 mo ago

Hi bossman, I think I have had a similar issue as you have mentioned-
Replaced clutch, since then, when test driving I engaged diff lock, tc jammed, and eventually let go with a bang, found a small chunk of steel on tc drain plug magnet.
Can you remember exactly which bolt it was that was too long? Trying to find out what I have broken, cheers

Red90

· #17 · 2 mo ago

Mike the vike said:
Hi bossman, I think I have had a similar issue as you have mentioned-
Replaced clutch, since then, when test driving I engaged diff lock, tc jammed, and eventually let go with a bang, found a small chunk of steel on tc drain plug magnet.
Can you remember exactly which bolt it was that was too long? Trying to find out what I have broken, cheers

That has nothing to do with the diff lock. It is bolts that connect the gearbox and the transfer case. If they are too long, they hit the gears and prevent the transfer case from moving at all.

Mike the vike

· #18 · 2 mo ago

2

This is what was found on tc drainplug magnet after draining oil yesterday.
Just to reiterate-
Replaced clutch, separated tc, but did not do any work on tc.
Test drove, went fine for 5km.
Stopped to make sure low/diff lock worked, selected low or difflock (can't remember), and vehicle jammed up, took a fair effort of trying to pull off and eventually let go with a bang, been fine ever since, everything works, no noises , but obviously something has happened.

Thanks for advice

See less See more

J!m

· #19 · 2 mo ago

Not sure what happened but that looks to me in the second picture to be a gear tooth.

Mike the vike

· #20 · 2 mo ago

2

I was also thinking a chipped gear, looking closer, I notice the centre section is not only perfectly round, but also has internal machining/drilling lines, internal diameter of "hole" looks like 3mm, a 3mm drill bit fits perfectly into the cavity

I'm imagining possibly a piece of internal selector fork pin housing/ or some sort of retainer pin housing
Have a look at these pics-

See less See more

1 - 20 of 26 Posts