[Drago.the.D110]

I’ve posted quite a bit here, first time asking for assistance.

I had my gear and transfer boxes serviced last year and everything was working flawlessly until last weekend. We were out adventuring in one of our favorite zones; I stopped to drop the transfer case in low and no luck, it was stuck in high. We carried on and enjoyed our day.

Fast forward to this weekend, I ripped things apart to see what was going on. After a bit of research, I was hoping it was just the grub screw on the gear selector finger, but that was tight. I also removed the shaft spring/ball just in case the was lodged for some reason. It turns out the selector fork/shaft is stuck.

I the researched using the manual and I’m ready to pull the center diff and selector shaft assembly. Before I do that, does anyone have any suggestions? I appreciate the help.

In case you haven’t followed any of our adventures, here is a shot of Drago from a recent trip. Cheers!

 

[rdavisinva]

Did you go off-roading without being in diff-lock?
I did years ago and ruined the transfercase.
Had to replace it, but don't recall if it was stuck in hi-range or not.

 

[Drago.the.D110]

We primarily drive FSRs. I only use diff-lock on the rare occasion we are on a technical trail.

 

[rdavisinva]

Am not the expert, but do think long stretches on service roads could be enough to ruin an LT230.

 

[LRNAD90]

No expert either, but rule of thumb is to lock the center diff when you leave pavement. There is really no reason to leave it open off pavement (you can essentially be one wheel drive if you do). The center diff is not designed to take much difference in front to rear wheel speeds for long. I doubt this is your issue with not being able to shift to Low Range, but I've seen many examples over the years of light off-roading destroying unlocked center diffs..

 

[Rocky]

Where’s the protective seal stopping dust dirt etc from getting into the shifter tower?

go get PB Blaster ad dry silicone lube. Give the shifter mechanism a good soaking of PBB.
Then take the truck out for a long drive. You want it to be nice and hot. Pull over and stop. Nograb the PBB again and dose it. Next step is best done from passenger side. Grab the shifter and try to see if the diff lock feature wants to engage.
If the Rover gods are with you it will be looser and may even engage. Then get behind the wheel. Assuming you are on hard surface, with DL off, try to engage low range.
It might free up first time, repeat as necessary.

 

[Drago.the.D110]

Where’s the protective seal stopping dust dirt etc from getting into the shifter tower?

The gasket between the shift tower and the case? The rest of the gasket is on the bottom of the tower and will be replaced before I button everything up.

go get PB Blaster ad dry silicone lube. Give the shifter mechanism a good soaking of PBB.
Then take the truck out for a long drive. You want it to be nice and hot. Pull over and stop. Nograb the PBB again and dose it. Next step is best done from passenger side. Grab the shifter and try to see if the diff lock feature wants to engage.
If the Rover gods are with you it will be looser and may even engage. Then get behind the wheel. Assuming you are on hard surface, with DL off, try to engage low range.
It might free up first time, repeat as necessary.

The shift mechanism in the shift tower moves freely without any binding. I will still apply a generous amount of grease seeing as how it is apart.

I'll get it out for a drive tomorrow as recommended and see if there are any changes. I'll report back.

 

[flyfish]

Make sure your shift solenoid/fuse is working properly. That can prevent shifting into low. Fyi

 

[Drago.the.D110]

I threw the seat box and drivers floor panel back in today, took a 30 minute drive, and still no luck getting into low.

Came home, ripped everything out and the transfer case is now sitting on my workbench. Planning on cracking it open next weekend to see if I can figure out what happened.

I’ll report back once I have more info.

 

[Z.G]

When you say "stopped to drop it in low" did you actually stop entirely? I've seen plenty of LT230s not drop into low/high at a total stop, typically best engagement is between 0-5mph

 

[Drago.the.D110]

When you say "stopped to drop it in low" did you actually stop entirely? I've seen plenty of LT230s not drop into low/high at a total stop, typically best engagement is between 0-5mph

Correct. Full stop. I had a great driving instructor years ago that conveyed all the nuances of driving Rovers. In fact, you might even know him.

 

[stalkem]

I'd agree with Zack. I usually have to nudge the throttle a little to get mine to shift H/L if I'm at a complete stop.

 

[Z.G]

Correct. Full stop. I had a great driving instructor years ago that conveyed all the nuances of driving Rovers. In fact, you might even know him.

Gene has gotten too used to those new fancy vehicles that dont require any massaging to engage low haha

I would have suggested bumping the accelerator or releasing the clutch in 1st to engage. I rarely ever engage low at a dead stop unless it goes in smoothly

 

[Drago.the.D110]

Gene has gotten too used to those new fancy vehicles that dont require any massaging to engage low haha

I would have suggested bumping the accelerator or releasing the clutch in 1st to engage. I rarely ever engage low at a dead stop unless it goes in smoothly

I tried all combinations of these suggestions without luck. Before my rebuild last year, it preferred neutral to shift into low/1st to shift back into high. Post rebuild it would shift into low and high smoothly in neutral, until it didn’t.

 

[terryjm1]

I appreciate you posting about this and the replies. I am a bit of an off road driving novice, I did not know you should engage diff lock for off roading. This probably saved me from ruining a transfer case.

 

[Falkon]

... Fast forward to this weekend, I ripped things apart to see what was going on. After a bit of research, I was hoping it was just the grub screw on the gear selector finger, but that was tight. I also removed the shaft spring/ball just in case the was lodged for some reason. It turns out the selector fork/shaft is stuck.

The Selector Fork is stuck as you mentioned and the Detent Ball isn't stuck. I would imagine it is just rust or some dirt that is jammed up in the hole.

Hence,

1. apply sufficient Anti-Seize Lubricant to the available spaces and blast through the Detent Ball hole.

2. apply some mild Heat with a Gas Torch (be care to not overheat the Aluminum Casing nor ignite the lubricant)

3. Grip and wiggle the Selector Fork with a Grip Locking Pliers

Also, it is possible that the Sychromesh Gear is messed up hence preventing the movement of the Fork. You will see if this is the case when you disassemble the Transfer Box though.

Let us know how it went.

 

[Drago.the.D110]

The Selector Fork is stuck as you mentioned and the Detent Ball isn't stuck. I would imagine it is just rust or some dirt that is jammed up in the hole.

Hence,

1. apply sufficient Anti-Seize Lubricant to the available spaces and blast through the Detent Ball hole.

2. apply some mild Heat with a Gas Torch (be care to not overheat the Aluminum Casing nor ignite the lubricant)

3. Grip and wiggle the Selector Fork with a Grip Locking Pliers

Also, it is possible that the Sychromesh Gear is messed up hence preventing the movement of the Fork. You will see if this is the case when you disassemble the Transfer Box though.

Let us know how it went.

Thanks for the post, @Falkon.

I pulled the sump cover to have a better look and I can see the selector shaft moving a few mm. Investigating further, I am not able to get the high/low selector to move on the hub; this is the cause of the issue. Now to figure out what’s next.

 

[Drago.the.D110]

We’ll that progressed quickly. The high/low selector is still stuck on the hub, even with the center diff out. Looks like I’m placing an order with Ashcroft for a new one, along with a gasket kit, and the center diff tool. Luckily, every thing else looks good.

 

[mffoster]

Before ordering parts you need to press the high and low gears off the main shaft, which will also remove the center dog gear slider. When it’s all off you’ll be able to see what is stuck to what. Not sure what special tool you mentioned, but the fancy nut on the top of the shaft will come off using a great big channel lock plier or you can tap/unscrew it with a small chisel. Since it’s all apart may want to get a full rebuild kit with all the bearings from Ashcroft, which includes the gasket kit. Only other extra (since it’s apart and you’ll be ordering from Ashcroft) is the heavy duty center diff cross pin. That’s not a bad idea and can be installed regardless of whether you replace all the bearings.

 

[o2batsea]

Well, that's a familiar sight.