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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
baby steps:
Put a new latch on the near rear door! And it even closes! After paint, I’ll mount the new power lock.
New bumper is on.
I still don’t know that I love the plastic grill surround, but I fit the mesh grill to it and it at least looks pretty good. I’ll try the fit this weekend.

btw, does anyone have any experience with the fiberglass puma bonnet? Any major advantages/disadvantages compared to the galvanneal bonnet?
 

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Oh man that looks like an awful job. Better in the long run though, good luck.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
I drove it around the block this weekend. It is SICK fast. Holy moses!

Things to work on:
1. power steering isn't working well. I'll chase that down this week if I can do it before friday (off to painters on friday).
2. Engine is running funny, feels like it's not getting enough fuel or a cylinder is missing, but after a minute it runs perfectly. This is way above my pay grade, will chase it down after paint.
 

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I bet if it was running on 5 cylinders it would feel cool after all your work, right on!

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Finishing up the floors. No rust anywhere!!! Also, when I bought the new doors from sp4x4, I mistakenly ordered them with the smaller diameter lock hole. So... thanks again Rovers North, they have a package with the newer door handles with the larger lock holes, tumblers, and a tumbler for the starter, so the key to the locks can match the key to the ignition. Side note, I hate the fricking escutcheon for the interior door lock. I’ve already broken two.
 

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I drove it around the block this weekend. It is SICK fast. Holy moses!

Things to work on:
1. power steering isn't working well. I'll chase that down this week if I can do it before friday (off to painters on friday).
2. Engine is running funny, feels like it's not getting enough fuel or a cylinder is missing, but after a minute it runs perfectly. This is way above my pay grade, will chase it down after paint.
Not sure if this will apply to your build. I will also be completing an engine swop eventually. I’ve researched the Volvo electric pump. I found a good deal on one and it’s in my garage. It’s a popular conversion for many modified cars these days (hot rods to street racers). As long as it has power, it can be located anywhere. I watched one video of a guy installing it in his trunk because there wasn’t room in his engine bay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Sloooooow progress! Taking off sound matting is painful. Here’s what I’ve learned: dry ice works ok, but it’s also the most miserable. Heat works better. Adhesive remover takes the off the last, most irritating, awful bits of remaining tar. It also takes off paint, but this is in prep for paint, so I don’t care. Here are some pics of the last, stupid, annoying bits and then some pics after I finally got them scraped off.
 

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Did you use the Walbro F20000141 fuel pump and the C5 filter/regulator per Nick’s BOM?

Also, did you swap out the pressure relief valve in your power steering pump? If not, your steering may feel too light because the pressure is too high. I found 1300 psi to feel about right on an LS swap rover. The pump can be as high as 1700 psi in stock form. Not to mention what it’s doing to your steering box seals
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Did you use the Walbro F20000141 fuel pump and the C5 filter/regulator per Nick’s BOM?

Also, did you swap out the pressure relief valve in your power steering pump? If not, your steering may feel too light because the pressure is too high. I found 1300 psi to feel about right on an LS swap rover. The pump can be as high as 1700 psi in stock form. Not to mention what it’s doing to your steering box seals
Yes on the fuel pump and regulator. And I do remember reading on the other thread about the pressure relief valve for the power steering, but that totally slipped my mind. Do you happen to have pics or part numbers for that? I don’t mean to be lazy, but that thread can be hard to read through again while looking for that needle in the haystack.
 

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Since the time I made this video I’ve done several more LS Swap‘s and have come to the conclusion that 1300 psi feels about right to me in a Defender. You can buy replacement pressure relief valve from someplace like PSI motorsports or you can buy the kit mentioned above and mess with the valve yourself which would involve knowing starting psi of the existing valve. I believe adding the thin shim reduces pressure by 75psi per shim and adding a thick will reduce by 150psi per thick shim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Last pics before paint! All of the goo from kilmat is gone. I took off the metal plate that the previous owner put on the A pillar for the snorkel (I will not replace the snorkel). I tinkered with the fuel pressure sensor. Then it was off to paint!
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Are they taking out the windows when they do paint? How long will it be gone for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
@mikewerx Yep! Taking it ALL apart. The windows are coming out, new seals going in, heated windscreen going in. Doors come off, and they will perfect the gaps and closures. Painting the interior as well, except the part of the bulkhead that's already covered by killmat. I got sick of taking that stuff off. Luckily, they have a guy with lots of defender window experience. I'm really excited to see how it goes. We're a little sketchy on time-frame. They are a little behind and we (Colorado) have a massive 4 day snowstorm headed our way. We'll see, but I'll post updates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
While the truck is with the painters… at some point I have to put the interior back together, so I got started on refurbishing the seating arrangements. There is a fair amount of rust on the metal aspects of the middle row seats. So I did what I do best, I spent over 5 hours with various wire wheels, taking rust off and getting down to bare, clean metal. The foot of one of the seats had some pitting, but plenty of metal left so it would be safe to reinstall and use for the seat. Then I coated it all with new black satin paint.
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