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Discussion Starter #101
Super fun today!
1. Since I placed the engine 2.25” rearward, I had to make a plate to position the transfer case shifter in the right spot.
2. Lengthen the transfer case shifter linkage arm.
3. Mock up the tunnel and placement of the transmission shifter. I’ll bolt that into place next week.
4. I ordered Nick’s adapter for the transfer case. Should be here soon, and I’ll install that.
5.Then time to fill everything with fluid. Then cover the tunnel and foot wells.
 

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I'm so jealous I didn't mount my engine back like you did, that looks so much easier than completely modifying my front end. Good work.

Sean
 

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You’re gonna have some work ahead of you to make the diff lock work. You’ll have to custom make something
 

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That's what I did with mine. You also need the shift shaft that goes into the TC.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #106 (Edited)
What about using a disco 2 lever retrofit cable to do the difflock?
Awesome idea. Any pics of what that would look like? I’m spending my weekend learning about how diff locks work. Yes, that’s how much of a noob I am. It’s left with me with more questions than answers really. For example, my transmission is currently in park, but I can roll the wheels. Does this mean the diff lock is in neutral? I thought the diff lock was always in neutral, and that’s why the diff’s weren’t locked. Can it be engaged but not locked? Sheesh. Sorry to be so ignorant. Surgery is easier.
 

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This is the cable set up, I just built a mount for it. The tab on the shaft is slightly different so you just swap out the shaft for the D2 one. 6 bolts, very easy. You can see the cable curves around the rear and connects to that shaft. Roadworn might actually have the part number as we were talking about this not long ago.

Sean
 

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Diff lock only has to do with the center differential not with the axle differentials.

There's some great YouTube videos about it.

Da1178 I think is the Brit part number for it?
 

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The t-box differential in either locked or unlocked. Neutral is between your high and low shifting.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Got it. Thanks for the advice and pics. I think i have a way to make it work. I'll use the Disco idea as a plan B.
 

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Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
Making progress on the shifter for the diff lock. It has been a lot of work. I'm trying to make it work with Nick's adapter before i abandon ship and go to the cable shifter. It now shifts beautifully from unlocked to neutral to locked. On the High/low shift, it goes easy, but I have a question. When I shift it into low, it clicks in nicely and stays. But if i even breathe on the stick, it clicks right back into high. There's no tension on the stick or adapter when it's in that position. it just goes right back to high if the stick is touched even a little. Is this normal? Is it because i haven't driven it yet, so it isn't really "in gear?"
 

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Nope not normal, should stay in place. It's not fully engaging.

When you shift it into high try rotating one of the two outputs to see if it'll end up staying in gear It may not be fully in gear because the box is not rotated into place.

if it stays in place after you rotate either one of the outputs then you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Nope not normal, should stay in place. It's not fully engaging.

When you shift it into high try rotating one of the two outputs to see if it'll end up staying in gear It may not be fully in gear because the box is not rotated into place.

if it stays in place after you rotate either one of the outputs then you should be good.
That makes sense. I'll tinker some more with the outputs.
 

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Discussion Starter #114 (Edited)
Everything is plumbed! Heater hoses, radiator, transmission cooler, condenser, AC and heater box. Done. All of the fluids are now in.

One confusing issue: the neutral safety switch. I have a speartech NSS wired in. When i have it hooked up, the engine won't turn over. From everything I've read, it's wired correctly. Pretty darn sure I'm in park. When I disconnect it, the engine fires right up. Has anyone else run in to this issue?
 

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Everything is plumbed! Heater hoses, radiator, transmission cooler, condenser, AC and heater box. Done. All of the fluids are now in.

One confusing issue: the neutral safety switch. I have a speartech NSS wired in. When i have it hooked up, the engine won't turn over. From everything I've read, it's wired correctly. Pretty darn sure I'm in park. When I disconnect it, the engine fires right up. Has anyone else run in to this issue?

Sounds like the switch is opposite than what the system is expecting. Normally open or normally closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
Just some philosophical meanderings tonight, feel free to disregard; but I wanted to put down some thoughts on this whole project as I'm using this post more or less as the biography for this Defender.

First, a good friend of mine, Zacc, is lending me his automotive intelligence throughout this process. We work together at the hospital, and now we work together in the garage. We were great friends before, we're brothers now. I'm grateful for the literal hundreds of hours he's put into this.

I'm grateful for the chance it's given me to work with my three boys. They have always loved my D90 NAS, but they will love this one on another level. We've had a great time together, and this has created some wonderful memories.

My crazy-awesome wife convinced me to do this project. This took a lot of love and guts. I am gone at work A LOT. She knew this project would take me away even more, and she really pushed me to do it anyway. What a babe!

This forum has been a tremendous help. I'm sorry to have bothered many of you with questions. I'm sure they highlight my ignorance, and come as a bit of a nuisance, but you guys have been super patient with me and I can't thank you enough.

By the time I'm done with this project, I will have the defender I've always dreamt of. But what i LOVE, is the fact that I will know this vehicle inside and out. I will have intimate knowledge of its strengths, weaknesses, beauties, flaws, capabilities, and shortcomings. I never thought I could learn to do the things I'm doing. On a very basic level, i've welded, fabricated, wired, drained, refilled, torn down, built back up, done, redone, re-redone. I've learned a few hundred things: condenser vs compressor, grounds, relays, starter, RUST, POR15, galvanic corrosion (I've seen it in the OR, in humans, and now I've seen it in a truck!), how the radiator cools the engine and how the transmission cooler cools the transmission, ECU, mass air flow sensors, air intakes, how to not panic too much when something doesn't work or fit, and so much more.

I'm assuming I will be able to drive this truck one day. It'll be amazing to cruise around town knowing all of the hundreds of hours of work and learning that went into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Quick update on "progress." I found out why the neutral safety switch was weird... it was doing it's job! The gear shift lever was sent to me mounted 180 degrees off, so all of my gears were backwards!! So, i turned it around, re-fabricated the bracket to attach the cable shifter to the lever, and BAM! All is well.

Then, I noticed a leak coming from the top of the new fuel tank. GRRR. I re-plumbed the line that I thought was leaking. Tried again, leaked again. I dropped the tank again, took out the fuel pump, re-did the lines, and I'll pressure test it tomorrow.

As I was doing that, I found fluid from the transfer case leaking out of the transmission brake drum! I took it apart, and there was fluid leaking from the flat-head screw hole (yellow arrow). Is there supposed to be TC fluid in the center where the red arrow is?
 

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The screw hole is just for retaining the brake drum The oil just happens to be there because it's leaking from the center. There is an oil seal behind the flange in the case of the transfer case. The big nut that you see in front of you has a thick washer and a felt seal that keeps oil from creeping up the splines behind the nut. Either the flange oil seal or the felt seal is bad. Easy to replace if you have an impact gun.

When I do this job I rightstuff glue the oil seal in place and rub the felt seal with EP Grease when installing. Buy a genuine/oem/corteco seal for the flange , cheap ones suck.
 
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