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I'm pretty sure that the cap of the steering box is solid steel and flat? That being said I've never taken one apart. I would just give yourself some leeway there personally.

The belt is definitely going to vibrate a lot when it's running That's the only reason I would be concerned.

Maybe some other folks who have done this swap can chime in.

@Macker maybe has some good insight
 

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I used Nick’s adapter as well but I used the truck style front accessory drive which pushes the belt several inches farther forward. Which brings on its own challenges but the belt is well in front of the steering box.
 

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That looks like the same color I just painted mine haha. Coming along nice.

All those electrical and fuel lines seem so close to the exhaust, it's the same on mine also, are you planning to heat wrap all the lines or the exhaust at all. I haven't decided yet but I'm leaning towards an exhaust wrap which kinda sucks cause it's stainless and ceramic coated, not sure what to do yet.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I'll try to take a pic of that, but yes, I wrapped it all. It is literally right up against the CAT on the passenger side. I'm still worried that the friction plus heat will be too much, and maybe I need to reroute it all a few inches farther toward the front before it comes out of the chassis. Remember, I pushed everything back 2.25", so mine might be worse that the standard set up with Nick's stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
A little more work!
1. New crossmember fits under the CATs perfectly (it looks like they're touching in the photo, but they're not.
2. Radiator is in! Man-o-man is it a tight fit on the driver side! The condenser is mounted on the front, fans in back. Lines are next. I have a separate trans cooler. Any recommendations on where to mount it?
3. Sorting out the wiring.
4. finishing off a little more of the body panels.
 

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I use this stuff on my carbureted cars to protect the hard and soft fuel lines and keep vapor lock from being an issue. It works well although a little ugly, is simpler to install than the actual wrap
 

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Have you filled the tcase yet with oil ?

If not put some arp thread sealant on all the pan bolts and the drain plugs.


Vband exhaust looks great
 

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Yep any drain plug on the entire truck should be slathered in that stuff. The lt230 pan bolts go into holes that are open in the rear to oil hence the need there.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
1. Thread sealant... check!
2. Working on the cooling system. I have the two largest connections in, now I’ll move on to the complicated sections. I found a good diagram online for the LS3 connections, but not all look exactly applicable to the defender. Any advice?
3. Making sure body panels are fitting before paint. Still need to do this with the doors.
 

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I got a good diagram here:

Some say you don't need the surge tank but I've found in my LS Jeep that I lose a bit of coolant out of my overflow tank and have to top off the rad every once in a while even though the tank is the highest point in the system.

If you want to go deeper then this is a good long read lol:


Sean
 

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