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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a few inches of clearance and still be able to get the 90 in the garage. looking for low profile styled roof "rack/base" designs options. Here is a tight fitting base on a 110 I came across. Assuming bottom of rack would be flush with ribs in roof supported by gutters or... front cage/gutter combo


Thoughts..


thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have a play boat, short kayak, that would be nice to be able to throw on top, or some larger items (pelican cases & large waterproof soft storage) that can be strapped down via recessed tie downs.. I could get away with two low profile cross bars for kayak
 

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Maybe it's just the photo, but it doesn't look like you have a whole lot to work with. How much height can you safely gain?

-Ash
Yeah, from that picture, you dont have much to work with.
Get your wife/girlfriend/boyfriend to sloooowly drive truck into the garage while you watch for the closest points.
My garage has a slight "ramp" going in and this affects clearance too.


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I've been building up to making a very low profile rack now for about a year. finally have most of the tools I think I need to fab it up minus welding. The very first picture posted inspired me to want a low profile rack too.

 

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You can always chisel out a portion of the floor. Don't laugh, I've seen it done.
When ever I see a post like this it makes me chuckle, back when then Disco was introduced in he UK, people where finding that the garage door that they use to clear with the family mini didn't do so with the Disco, so many just had the floors dug out.

But looks like you have room to get that header moved up and get a 8 foot door fitted.

My last garage in the UK used to be a bus depot with a 20 foot pit, heaven.
 

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Yeah, a jig would give you the best understanding of clearance and they're a breeze to make. I have built a few low profile setups for customers dealing with this exact issue, but my personal favorite and a very popular add-on for trucks that leave here with cages is this flush-mounted Front Runner setup I designed. Obviously it's cage-specific, but it probably wouldn't be a massive undertaking to adapt it to a gutter mounted system.

-Ash

 

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Couple of things.

1. Adjust your garage door to pull it as far forward as possible without the pull unit crashing into your pull up motor. You should have maximum clearance at the opening header now. You may have to adjust the pull arm bolts to get the door up higher than the opening header too.

2. Now you can park the D under the doorway and measure how much space you have. Most standard doorways are 78", which is not enough for any rack I know of for a D with standard BFG AT's at 31.5" new.

I have a Front Runner Slimline I with the short legs (220 mm) (they have taller ones available) and from the top of my D90 roof on the rear to the top of the rack is 3.5"

So if that will clear and referring back to the pic in post#2, you'll also need a modification to mount the Front Runner rack to your roll cage. You'll need a set of Front Runner LR3/4 FRONT mounting legs and a couple of tube clamps to clamp onto the roll bars that are steel so a mounting tab can be welded to them to attach the LR3/4 front/forward legs to. The LR3/4 has different length legs to mount on the LR factory mounting points on the roof. If you get this far PM me as Front Runner worked with me to get a rack on my D90.
 

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Yeah, a jig would give you the best understanding of clearance and they're a breeze to make. I have built a few low profile setups for customers dealing with this exact issue, but my personal favorite and a very popular add-on for trucks that leave here with cages is this flush-mounted Front Runner setup I designed. Obviously it's cage-specific, but it probably wouldn't be a massive undertaking to adapt it to a gutter mounted system. -Ash
Very nice Ash
 
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