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Hey guys, I'm an owner of a 200tdi 110 and I was out driving it today when all of the sudden the engine stopped running as I was rolling up to an intersection. I tried restarting and the engine turns over but it won't catch. Still have full electrical power. I first tested the fuel injection pump wire to see if it was faulty by running a tester wire from the pump to my battery and trying to start it, but still wouldn't catch. Then I loosened one of the fuel lines to see if fuel was getting to the engine and it did squirt when I turned the engine over. Last thing I did was removed the valve cover and turned the engine over to make sure the rocker arms were moving just to see if maybe my timing belt broke (I never heard any loud or weird noises leading up to the engine dying but figured I'd check) and luckily for me the rocker arms are still moving. Needless to say though, now I'm stumped. I have no idea why the engine died and now it won't start, I'd really appreciate the collective wisdom of the forum to help me to know where to look next!
 

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It sounds like your ignition switch burned out...happened to me 6 months ago. I just bought a new complete set up with new key since I think it the original one from 1992 lol.
 

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It sounds like your ignition switch burned out...happened to me 6 months ago. I just bought a new complete set up with new key since I think it the original one from 1992 lol.
Would the engine still turn over if the ignition switch burnt out? And I'd lose power while driving? Sorry I'm a novice mechanic, I'm learning this whole thing as I go lol
 

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You are having a fuel supply issue. Either the line is blocked or the lift pump is not working.
 

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Would the engine still turn over if the ignition switch burnt out? And I'd lose power while driving? Sorry I'm a novice mechanic, I'm learning this whole thing as I go lol
Yes, it’s just one wire or solenoid (can’t recall) that craps out...take off the binnacle and mess with the wires behind the ignition...there are 3 or 4 wires and if that burns out you will stall and not be able to start it. I think they sell the back part separately, but I just went for an entire set up.
 

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You are having a fuel supply issue. Either the line is blocked or the lift pump is not working.
I thought my issue was fuel related and bought the rear separator and pump, and new lift pump...but it was a wire going to ignition. I was just letting him know it could be that. I’m still learning myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You are having a fuel supply issue. Either the line is blocked or the lift pump is not working.
Would fuel still squirt from my fuel line when it's loosened upon engine turnover if I had a blockage or lift pump failure?
 

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Sorry I thought you said didn’t squirt. Probably a bad or plugged solenoid.

First take off the feed line to the injection pump and crank to make sure the fuel is making it all the way.
 

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I thought my issue was fuel related and bought the rear separator and pump, and new lift pump...but it was a wire going to ignition. I was just letting him know it could be that. I’m still learning myself.


He tested that by putting power straight to the solenoid.
 

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Sorry I thought you said didn’t squirt. Probably a bad or plugged solenoid.

First take off the feed line to the injection pump and crank to make sure the fuel is making it all the way.
I just undid the feed line and cranked, fuel did come out. Should I move forward with replacing the solenoid?
 

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Remove the solenoid and see if there is anything below it that could be blocking the flow. A magnet is a good idea to pickup any possible metal.

You can put it back in without the valve and if the valve is the problem it will start. You will then need to stall the engine to stop it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm ashamed to admit I don't know, I was in the middle of doing an upgraded fuel filter system with my dad but hadn't finished and installed it yet. The truck is new to me and the previous owner did do a bunch of maintenance items recently but said he hadn't gotten to the fuel filter. I should have changed the filter immediately but I guess I was just too excited to drive it around.
 

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Its a very simple diesel as diesels go.
Only takes:
1) clean filtered air (have seen failed air filter hoses stall one out)
2) clean fuel with no air bubbles
3)340-400 psi of compression

for it to run.

Fwiw when you cracked the injector line and fuel came out that was an indication your belt wasnt broken.
Pump is driven by that belt. You didnt need to pull valve cover for confirmation.

Always start with the fuel filter. Its the cheapest and one of the most important parts. Try draining it and see if there is water in the bottom (white round disc @ bottom of filter). Be sure to fill the new filter before screwing it onto the filter head.
Nothing wrong with the stock tdi filter system. My 2 cents- I wouldn't mess with changing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Uncle Douglas, I appreciate the feedback. I pulled the fuel injection pump solenoid and the valve plunger remained behind in the socket, is that normal? I was able to finagle it out with the small magnet I picked up and pinch it with my fingers.

I dropped my magnet down in the socket and was able to pull a decent amount of metal shavings. I put the solenoid back in without the plunger and tried starting it with the fuel lines cracked to see if I could purge the air I introduced to the system, but unfortunately was not able to get it to the point of squirting fuel and the engine wouldn't catch. At that point it was getting late and I figure I'll take another go at it tomorrow.

Just to make sure I'm going about this correctly, does everything I've done so far sound like I'm on the right path?
 

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Ok going to ask because cant make assumptions.
Is there fuel in the tank ? Adequate enough that fuel level can be ruled out ? If low on fuel its entirely possible that the fuel sloshed and you momentarily sucked air as you rolled up to that stop. These tanks arent baffled.

Dont turn the key to purge air. Use the finger lever on the fuel pump. What you describe sounds like there is no fuel to the injection pump. The injection pump gets its only lubrication from the fuel run through it and spinning it dry can ruin a pump very very quickly.
First crack or completely remove the bleeder screw from the fuel filter. Slowly turn the engine over with a socket on the front crank nut till you find the spot where the finger lever on the fuel lift pump feels to be spring loaded.
Now pump with the finger lever until foam/air bubble free fuel comes out of the filter head. Replace the bleeder screw. With the bleeder screw out fuel should spew out of that hole. Big time flow 2+ ounces per pump. If not your cam actuated mechanical lift pump needs to be replaced.

Once you have air free fuel @ filter head then close it up, pump 4-5 more times and you can crack a line @ the injector and try spinning the engine.

Now, if no fuel comes out as you had last night, you can assume then the solenoid valve is not opening and allowing fuel into the injection pump.

The injection pump solenoid is a simple electric magnet valve. You apply 12v by turning the key and the plunger is pulled up against the spring and opens the valve. Remove 12v and it slams shut.
With the plunger removed the truck should now start and run but the only way to shut it off will be to put it in a high gear and release the clutch and stall it. The fuel solenoids are cheap and do fail but if you have metal swarf in the hole under the plunger that you can pull out with a magnet this is indicative of pump wear and I'd look to get yours rebuilt or replaced. Its been caught @ that point because of the presence of the magnetic field.
Any trash @ all will kill a tdi injector tip. The fact that you have metal swarf in the pump is bad and if you cant get it to start I'd look the have the pump rebuilt and injector tips changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok going to ask because cant make assumptions.
Is there fuel in the tank ? Adequate enough that fuel level can be ruled out ? If low on fuel its entirely possible that the fuel sloshed and you momentarily sucked air as you rolled up to that stop. These tanks arent baffled.

Dont turn the key to purge air. Use the finger lever on the fuel pump. What you describe sounds like there is no fuel to the injection pump. The injection pump gets its only lubrication from the fuel run through it and spinning it dry can ruin a pump very very quickly.
First crack or completely remove the bleeder screw from the fuel filter. Slowly turn the engine over with a socket on the front crank nut till you find the spot where the finger lever on the fuel lift pump feels to be spring loaded.
Now pump with the finger lever until foam/air bubble free fuel comes out of the filter head. Replace the bleeder screw. With the bleeder screw out fuel should spew out of that hole. Big time flow 2+ ounces per pump. If not your cam actuated mechanical lift pump needs to be replaced.

Once you have air free fuel @ filter head then close it up, pump 4-5 more times and you can crack a line @ the injector and try spinning the engine.

Now, if no fuel comes out as you had last night, you can assume then the solenoid valve is not opening and allowing fuel into the injection pump.

The injection pump solenoid is a simple electric magnet valve. You apply 12v by turning the key and the plunger is pulled up against the spring and opens the valve. Remove 12v and it slams shut.
With the plunger removed the truck should now start and run but the only way to shut it off will be to put it in a high gear and release the clutch and stall it. The fuel solenoids are cheap and do fail but if you have metal swarf in the hole under the plunger that you can pull out with a magnet this is indicative of pump wear and I'd look to get yours rebuilt or replaced. Its been caught @ that point because of the presence of the magnetic field.
Any trash @ all will kill a tdi injector tip. The fact that you have metal swarf in the pump is bad and if you cant get it to start I'd look the have the pump rebuilt and injector tips changed.
I've got over 3/4 fuel in the tank, so I don't think I sucked in air that way. I've been forced to work late the last couple nights but I'm going to try to see if I can bleed the system tonight following the instructions you provided. I'll report back once I've been able to bleed the system and if I can then start it.
 
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